They say the gasket was updated sometime mid year 05. I've seen very few post 05s with the failure.
*** V6 Head Gasket Action Request ***
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They say the gasket was updated sometime mid year 05. I've seen very few post 05s with the failure.
Back when I purchased my 2006 4runner, I asked the Toyota dealership parts guy regarding head gasket model numbers between the 2005 and 2006 model years. I posted this in this same thread probably a year and a half ago.
They were different which confirms that they have an updated gasket design, however I wasn't able to pinpoint exactly when the new head gasket design was being installed into the 2006+ trucks. (if Toyota started installing them January 2006 or if the late model 2005, like mine is a 11/05 build date) indeed had the updated gasket design.
Since I don't know exactly when Toyota started to install the updated gasket design into our trucks, my thought was to change the coolant out every year as a JUST IN CASE.
If I have the new gasket, well then 25 bucks a year is cheap for fresh coolant even if it doesn't prevent anything.
But if I have the old gasket design, and it does help prevent it from blowing, then it was $25 bucks well spend in my opinion.
YetiX
New member
If you go back in this thread, a Toyota tech (I believe) posted that the gasket past no. changed in December, 2005. When mine was done, I saw the gaskets side-by-side. They are different.
Btw, mine is an 11/05 build.
I will be changing my coolant every year.
dsandman87
New member
Ugh, I think I may be starting to see this too.
I've got an '04 V6 2WD 4Runner that I bought in 2010 with 89,000 miles. I've babied this truck, performed oil changes, coolant flushes, etc. on schedule and no abusive driving, never overheated. Now at 185,000 I'm starting to experience some rough starts. I changed the plugs (all looked just fine), but that didn't fix it. It started getting worse and throwing the P0306 code, so I replaced the #6 ignition coil, still didn't fix rough starts in the morning. I check my oil and coolant levels every time I fill the gas tank, and while coolant is not quite as full as it used to be, it isn't at the low mark, either. However, now it's starting rough in the afternoons after work, too, so I'm finally checking online and this thread is what I see. :dammit:
I'll check compression when I get a chance, and will update with the result. I'll also check in on the other threads and Facebook group if I get a bad result.
I, like you folks, really, REALLY don't have the time or resources to do a head gasket replacement. So frustrating, since I bought this 4Runner based on superior reliability reports and have babied it to keep it that way.
I've got an '04 V6 2WD 4Runner that I bought in 2010 with 89,000 miles. I've babied this truck, performed oil changes, coolant flushes, etc. on schedule and no abusive driving, never overheated. Now at 185,000 I'm starting to experience some rough starts. I changed the plugs (all looked just fine), but that didn't fix it. It started getting worse and throwing the P0306 code, so I replaced the #6 ignition coil, still didn't fix rough starts in the morning. I check my oil and coolant levels every time I fill the gas tank, and while coolant is not quite as full as it used to be, it isn't at the low mark, either. However, now it's starting rough in the afternoons after work, too, so I'm finally checking online and this thread is what I see. :dammit:
I'll check compression when I get a chance, and will update with the result. I'll also check in on the other threads and Facebook group if I get a bad result.
I, like you folks, really, REALLY don't have the time or resources to do a head gasket replacement. So frustrating, since I bought this 4Runner based on superior reliability reports and have babied it to keep it that way.
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Compression will probably be fine, was on mine. Also, tested the radiator for exhaust and it tested ok. A borescope confirmed it. You can get a cheap one on Amazon or eBay if you want one.
BearsBeetsBSG
New member
2005 SR5 4runner v6- Head gasket change at 151000 miles.
Like many of you that posted on this subject, I spent lots of time trying to convince myself that this was in fact not my issue. I research every forum on this subject (even in the Taco/Fj community forums). Here is my story...
I had codes:
-P0305
-P0420
-P0430 (only pending)
Symptoms were just like all the others:
-intermittent rough idle at start (then went away at 15-20 sec)
-water flowing noise under the dash
-coolant was extremely slow to leak - so difficult to detect leaks by tracking levels in the reservoir.
-ran just fine after the first 15-20 sec
-mine did not overheat like many others had stated (I watch it closely)
My attempts to clear the codes:
-cleaned MAF
-cleaned throttle body
-cleaned air filter
-replaced PVC valve
-changed spark plugs
-swapped ignition coils
-thought about pulling the injectors and having them cleaned, but didn't
All the codes still came back regardless of all this work, but it was still good maintenance upkeep.
I did meticulously change the oil (mobil 1) and filter (wic) every 5k miles, spark plugs at 30k, and coolant at 60k... so this wasn't caused by lack of maintenance. I purchased with 75k miles in 2011 and it is at 151k miles now.
I did a block test kit to confirm hydrocarbons were present in the coolant (tested positive), so took it to a trusted mechanic shop nearby and had them confirm again that it was in fact a head gasket leak. They quoted $1500 (using non OEM gaskets) so I requested them to use OEM gaskets moving the cost up to $1900 total (still not bad).
Findings:
The mechanic could not tell based on the head gasket if there was a leak at cylinder #5, but I had suspected an issue on bank 2 side as it would actually trough a code P0420. The machine shop did find a hairline crack near cylinder 6 and was able to weld and fix it. I was told it was very shallow and didn't lead to another compartment.
After all that, it runs great now and all the symptoms I mentioned above went away (except P0420/430). So if you are contemplating doing this fix vs buying a new/used engine, my vote would be to have the gaskets replaced and drive the 4runner another 150-200k miles.
Last:
I replaced the pcv valve post head gasket change (last night) in hopes to clear out the P0420/P0430 codes. I've only driven it this morning, but I did notice the idle is much better (staying at 700 rpm) in drive at stop lights (idle would fluctuate between 550-700 before). I don't think this is an issue and can't recall if it did this before the gasket change (I think it just me being over sensitive to issues based on recent events. :noidea). Even with the cat codes I still have good power, mpg is 16-17 city 20-22 highway, and sulfur smell is only noticed at start up (which I recall smelling through the back window when first purchased)
ALL, be sure to report your cases to Toytoa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will this evening.
Like many of you that posted on this subject, I spent lots of time trying to convince myself that this was in fact not my issue. I research every forum on this subject (even in the Taco/Fj community forums). Here is my story...
I had codes:
-P0305
-P0420
-P0430 (only pending)
Symptoms were just like all the others:
-intermittent rough idle at start (then went away at 15-20 sec)
-water flowing noise under the dash
-coolant was extremely slow to leak - so difficult to detect leaks by tracking levels in the reservoir.
-ran just fine after the first 15-20 sec
-mine did not overheat like many others had stated (I watch it closely)
My attempts to clear the codes:
-cleaned MAF
-cleaned throttle body
-cleaned air filter
-replaced PVC valve
-changed spark plugs
-swapped ignition coils
-thought about pulling the injectors and having them cleaned, but didn't
All the codes still came back regardless of all this work, but it was still good maintenance upkeep.
I did meticulously change the oil (mobil 1) and filter (wic) every 5k miles, spark plugs at 30k, and coolant at 60k... so this wasn't caused by lack of maintenance. I purchased with 75k miles in 2011 and it is at 151k miles now.
I did a block test kit to confirm hydrocarbons were present in the coolant (tested positive), so took it to a trusted mechanic shop nearby and had them confirm again that it was in fact a head gasket leak. They quoted $1500 (using non OEM gaskets) so I requested them to use OEM gaskets moving the cost up to $1900 total (still not bad).
Findings:
The mechanic could not tell based on the head gasket if there was a leak at cylinder #5, but I had suspected an issue on bank 2 side as it would actually trough a code P0420. The machine shop did find a hairline crack near cylinder 6 and was able to weld and fix it. I was told it was very shallow and didn't lead to another compartment.
After all that, it runs great now and all the symptoms I mentioned above went away (except P0420/430). So if you are contemplating doing this fix vs buying a new/used engine, my vote would be to have the gaskets replaced and drive the 4runner another 150-200k miles.
Last:
I replaced the pcv valve post head gasket change (last night) in hopes to clear out the P0420/P0430 codes. I've only driven it this morning, but I did notice the idle is much better (staying at 700 rpm) in drive at stop lights (idle would fluctuate between 550-700 before). I don't think this is an issue and can't recall if it did this before the gasket change (I think it just me being over sensitive to issues based on recent events. :noidea). Even with the cat codes I still have good power, mpg is 16-17 city 20-22 highway, and sulfur smell is only noticed at start up (which I recall smelling through the back window when first purchased)
ALL, be sure to report your cases to Toytoa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will this evening.
That seems like a lot for toyota gaskets. I got the entire engine overhaul gasket set for 279. Still, that's a great price. I had over $900 in parts including a machine shop doing the heads. I replaced the water pump, all the pulley bearings, valve seals, all gaskets and o-rings we came in contact with. Glad you got it fixed.
It was for the toyota gasket kit/seals, water pump (he didn't include that to begin with), and I had forgotten to mention a transmission drain/fill.
Did you do the job yourself? I really wanted to but I'm in the middle of a home remodel. I did this job on a wrangler 4.0 I6, and was pretty simple, this would have been much more involved.
YetiX
New member
It's interesting, after replacing my head gaskets, my idle has been a little rough, or maybe fluctuating would be a better way to put it. Maybe I'll replace my PCV valve just for fun.
2005
10/04
4x4
Misfire started occurring around 135,000, never overheated.
Cylinder #4 and #6
Shop found CO2 in the cooling system and it seems to be losing coolant at a very slow rate. Every shop I've called for an estimate so far had advised against making the repair, suggesting that I cut my loss and sell it as is. Estimates range anywhere from 4500 to 7000 depending on anything else they find once they open her up. Is there anyone else in the East Bay area that has dealt with this issue? Repair or engine swap? Any info or advice would be much appreciated. I really want to keep this truck, but If it's going to cost that much to keep here going I'll probably just have to move on.
10/04
4x4
Misfire started occurring around 135,000, never overheated.
Cylinder #4 and #6
Shop found CO2 in the cooling system and it seems to be losing coolant at a very slow rate. Every shop I've called for an estimate so far had advised against making the repair, suggesting that I cut my loss and sell it as is. Estimates range anywhere from 4500 to 7000 depending on anything else they find once they open her up. Is there anyone else in the East Bay area that has dealt with this issue? Repair or engine swap? Any info or advice would be much appreciated. I really want to keep this truck, but If it's going to cost that much to keep here going I'll probably just have to move on.
When we did mine I had a little over 900 in parts and machine shop work. I had the heads checked and milled flat. I also replaced ever gasket and seal we touched as well as the water pump and all of the bearings in the pulleys. It's around 20 hours of labor. It's not that hard if you follow the manual, but it is a LOT of work and my son is a mechanic We did not pull the engine or the oil pan. 3k would be more reasonable imo. 7k is theft.
Did you check an independent shop? Also, a junior college with an auto program might do it. After we did that I tried to buy another one with the same problem for cheap, but it was a 2wd.
YetiX
New member
$4500 is the high end of acceptable and that is ONLY if they replace everything: water pump, bearings, pulleys, belts, mill the heads, etc. Mine was $4,100 but that also included a custom exhaust from the cat back. Things is, once this is done, your engine should be good to at least 300k miles, if not more.
Did your idle get better?
After my hg job I can definitely feel more shake at idle then before. That's when the idle is at ~500. Better when it's higher.
New PCV valve, clean MAF sensoor and TB. No codes, just feels rougher.
Truck is at ~175K.
Wonder if all the pulling and yanking didn't damage the (already old) engine/tran mounts...
$4500 is too much for starting point and for $7000 you can get a new truck in better shape. You might be better off selling the truck. I hope you disclose the problem if you decide to go this route.
After seeing my hg and how small the leak was, I was thinking that if any of the "miracle in a bottle" products ever work, it should be on a leak that small.
Search trough this thread. There was a mechanic from SJ who did his. It ain't that far from Oakland. Perhaps you can work something out.
YetiX
New member
I haven't had time to replace the PCV yet. That said, it's been over 5,000 miles since it was done and the idle is still a bit rougher (I think). It is definitely more pronounced when the A/C is running.
Interestingly, my friend who has a 2007 Land Cruiser had his head gaskets done too and he also reports a rougher idle.
mcfly0913
Junior Member
Same Concerns
Did you go ahead and follow through with changing out the coolant? What about installing a new radiator altogether? Would that make a difference as preventative maintenance? I just bought an '06 V6 with 149,000 miles on it a month ago so it sounds like I'm right there with you.
Did you go ahead and follow through with changing out the coolant? What about installing a new radiator altogether? Would that make a difference as preventative maintenance? I just bought an '06 V6 with 149,000 miles on it a month ago so it sounds like I'm right there with you.
Yep I sure have been. I've been changing it once a year roughly. Just did it back in July when I installed my new cv axles. For mileage, it has been roughly every 15,000 miles I did a drain and fill of the radiator.
I would like to think it will make a difference as preventative maintenance. If it prevents a possible head gasket issue in the future I'll be glad I did it.
If I were you, I would do all the fluids just so you have a baseline to work off of unless you have records.
So, coolant, diffs, oil, etc.
Just a side note, I just towed a ~3,500 lbs trailer about 150 miles yesterday without issues. Got a terrifying low 12.5 mpg, but ran without issues.
Still going strong!
dsandman87
New member
Thanks for the tip on the borescope, iBison. I looked in cylinder 6, and sure enough there was a small, slow drip of coolant right up front.
I'll be calling Toyota tomorrow, and very firmly yet politely requesting as much assistance as they can give (can't hurt to ask, right?), though I'm not expecting any more than a STBU. At least it will be another entry for their tally.
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