V8 Aftermarket Exhaust Manifold

[barton.mccoy30]

Sadly I overspent letting the dealer do the replacement for my driver side manifold. It ended up being just over 1,700 for parts and labor at a dealer in Arlington, VA. Since then the passenger side has began to leak, and seems to be worse than the other side was. I was quoted about 950 for parts and labor at a local shop. Anyone have issues with the pacesetter manifolds after significant mileage? Update: I have an 06' SR5 with V8. Will hit 100,000 miles today.

 

[rjb75]

Wound up going with the Magnaflow with OE hardware and gaskets. The used car dealer that I bought my 4R from is going to install it for free but I unfortunately had to pay for the part. At least I don't have to get my hands dirty for this one.

 

[V8Limited4wd]

What would be a decent price on labor for both sides? Thinking about getting the manifolds replaced with pacesetters. I've had enough with the ticking noise.

 

[laufer]

Installed Dorman part, got CEL with P0157

For all those with '06 and newer 4runners with the dreaded manifold leak...I found a product that worked...and it was cheap. I bought the part and brought it to my mechanic...all in I paid about $900. I think toyota wanted much more than that for just the part. Ticking noise gone, no emission warnings, and I'm back to loving my 4runner!! Below is my vehicle and the manifold options I found online. I bought the Doorman from partsgeek.com listed first below. I know they have the same part for the V6.
2006 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.7L V8 :
06 2006 Toyota 4Runner Exhaust Manifold with Integrated Catalytic Converter - Exhaust - Bosal, Dorman, Walker, Left, Right - PartsGeek

Thanks! I found the same product new on eBay for my 2005 V8.

Dorman Products - 674-978

My mechanic put it in but said it was a very frustrating experience because the space is so tight and he got close to bailing out on this job. I told him how grateful I was for his efforts. The clicking noise on acceleration is now gone, and the driving experience is so much better now!

But there is now a related problem, which shows up as a CEL (along with the other three lights for VSC off etc.). The fault codes were P0156 and P0157 initially, though most recently I only got a P0157.

The first time I told my mechanic, he said this condition would go away once the sensor got used to the new part. But by now I have reset it several times and it keeps coming right back after two drive cycles (100-150 miles or so).

I ran these additional tests, which indicate that the sensor voltage is not within the 0.6-1.2V range. Does this suggest that the sensor might be disconnected? The first image shows the affected sensor (bank 2 sensor 2), while the second image shows the corresponding sensor on the other side (bank 1 sensor 2) for comparison.

Fuel economy appears to be unchanged.

I would be grateful for any information that will help my mechanic fix this problem with minimal extra frustration.

 

[ben550]

For all those with '06 and newer 4runners with the dreaded manifold leak...I found a product that worked...and it was cheap. I bought the part and brought it to my mechanic...all in I paid about $900. I think toyota wanted much more than that for just the part. Ticking noise gone, no emission warnings, and I'm back to loving my 4runner!! Below is my vehicle and the manifold options I found online. I bought the Doorman from partsgeek.com listed first below. I know they have the same part for the V6.
2006 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.7L V8 :
06 2006 Toyota 4Runner Exhaust Manifold with Integrated Catalytic Converter - Exhaust - Bosal, Dorman, Walker, Left, Right - PartsGeek

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1432833,parttype,5808

Eastern Catalytic Converter - Direct Fit 49-State Eastern Catalytic Converters

How have your new manifolds held up? Are the Dormans any good?

Thanks! I found the same product new on eBay for my 2005 V8.

Dorman Products - 674-978

My mechanic put it in but said it was a very frustrating experience because the space is so tight and he got close to bailing out on this job. I told him how grateful I was for his efforts. The clicking noise on acceleration is now gone, and the driving experience is so much better now!

But there is now a related problem, which shows up as a CEL (along with the other three lights for VSC off etc.). The fault codes were P0156 and P0157 initially, though most recently I only got a P0157.



The first time I told my mechanic, he said this condition would go away once the sensor got used to the new part. But by now I have reset it several times and it keeps coming right back after two drive cycles (100-150 miles or so).

I ran these additional tests, which indicate that the sensor voltage is not within the 0.6-1.2V range. Does this suggest that the sensor might be disconnected? The first image shows the affected sensor (bank 2 sensor 2), while the second image shows the corresponding sensor on the other side (bank 1 sensor 2) for comparison.



Fuel economy appears to be unchanged.

I would be grateful for any information that will help my mechanic fix this problem with minimal extra frustration.

What did your mechanic charge for the labor? Did you ever resolve the issue?

 

[laufer]

Hi Ben, sorry, I was in Chile for a couple of weeks over winter break and am catching up on the forums just now.

How have your new manifolds held up? Are the Dormans any good?

So far it's holding up great and continues to be very quiet, though I have driven only about 1000 miles since the repair.

What did your mechanic charge for the labor? Did you ever resolve the issue?

IIRC he charged me $300 for the one side.

Unfortunately, the issue is still pending, so whenever I go on the expressway, the Christmas tree comes back on and I reset it when I have a chance.

I haven't visited him lately but am planning to talk to him again soon. I'll keep you posted...

 

[laufer]

What did your mechanic charge for the labor? Did you ever resolve the issue?

Hi again, I recently re-opened this issue with my mechanic. We looked up the DTC codes (P0156 and P0157), both of which point to an issue with bank 2 sensor 2 (lower passenger side on the V8).

He told me to order the OEM part, Denso 234-4261, which includes the electrical connector. I got it through Amazon for less than $50, and he installed it for $20. The old part didn't appear in good shape and could have been the original sensor with 185k miles on it.

Since then, I've driven about 400 miles including expressway, which should include at least the two required driving cycles. (I also performed a zero-point calibration to prevent the whole Christmas tree from lighting up.) So far, everything seems to be fine and no codes have appeared!

In conclusion, I think it was a coincidence that the sensor failed around the same time as the exhaust manifold replacement. In case the problem resurfaces, I will follow up again.

 

[Clarkson!]

Doorman exhaust headers and long term usage

Good morning, saw this older thread and am now faced with the same need to replace my headers - was curious if the Doormans continue to hold up well, or if they cracked as well considering they appear to be the same design as OEMs. Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated!

Hi Ben, sorry, I was in Chile for a couple of weeks over winter break and am catching up on the forums just now.



So far it's holding up great and continues to be very quiet, though I have driven only about 1000 miles since the repair.



IIRC he charged me $300 for the one side.

Unfortunately, the issue is still pending, so whenever I go on the expressway, the Christmas tree comes back on and I reset it when I have a chance.

I haven't visited him lately but am planning to talk to him again soon. I'll keep you posted...