Valve job or replace / rebuild engine?

B

bam20

New member
Hi guys I have a 2001 T4R w/ 208K miles. About 25k miles ago CEL came on and had it checked out. Low compression in 3rd cylinder and a camera determined it was a burnt valve. A valve job was recommended but the car has driven just fine. I need to have car smogged and can't w/ the CEL on or I wouldn't do anything. Checked around locally and it looks like my options are valve job for $1500, rebuild engine for $2k, or replace w/ used engine for about the same as the rebuild.

Not sure which option is best and frankly hate doing anything as the car drives fine, but need to get it smogged. What would you guys suggest?
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
What code is it giving you?

I'd be a little surprised if it actually had a crack in the cylinder head and was still running fine. Also, a valve job wouldn't fix that. Do you trust the mechanic that made the diagnosis?

Of your three options, I'd choose the used engine. By most accounts this engine is a little tricky to rebuild and get it right.
 
Last edited:
The bottom end of that engine is bulletproof so you should not need a rebuild. Especially a $2,000 rebuild. ugh. I gotta wonder what kind of rebuild you get for 2K?

Don't answer that. I'm sure some local hero knows a guy...yada, yada, yada.

I'd go with a valve job.

The good news is in SoCal there are great shops that will totally refurbish the head. have them magnaflux it and clean out the ports. It will be better than new !
 
Getting the heads checked for cracks if you go the valve job route is a good idea in my opinion. However magnaflux won't work because they are aluminum. Dye penetrant is the NDT method you're after.

If it were my truck, I'd probably just get a used head off of car-parts.com for $150 and slap that on there. Was the compression check done by leak down to isolate the valve as the issue, or just a total compression check by turning the motor over with the starter..

Sometimes it's hard to gauge the validity of Internet advice, so disclaimer: I have not been any deeper in the 5vzfe than valve cover gaskets and supercharger install. I have done full rebuilds on a couple Toyota 22 RE's, VW 1.6 diesel, Chrysler 3.8, Lycoming O-235, and hot section inspections on P&W PT-6's. I'm not a pro engine builder, but I don't just wrench online.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the advice guys. Think I'm going with installing a used motor. What would you consider a fair price for labor for the replacement?
 
Last edited:
Hey man I'm in same boat. I just purchased a used motor from JDM dealer here in NJ. It cost 995.00 shipped. My mechanic is charging 1500.00 to install. I went with the JDM because you have an idea of what your getting. A low mileage running motor. I found some on Craigslist for real cheap but you can't be sure what your getting.
 
Ya just feel stupid in my case replacing a motor that runs fine. Do you guys know of a way I can get the car to pass smog w/o going down this route?
 
bam20 said:
Ya just feel stupid in my case replacing a motor that runs fine. Do you guys know of a way I can get the car to pass smog w/o going down this route?
Click to expand...

It is possible to find a smog shop that will pass you for some extra cash like $150... you will need to find someone that knows the smog tech.

CA. is a tough place to pass smog... some have vehicles registered in NV.

having a burnt valve I would have also the injectors cleaned/tested or replaced when this work is being done.
 
Bigmd said:
Hey man I'm in same boat. I just purchased a used motor from JDM dealer here in NJ. It cost 995.00 shipped. My mechanic is charging 1500.00 to install. I went with the JDM because you have an idea of what your getting. A low mileage running motor. I found some on Craigslist for real cheap but you can't be sure what your getting.
Click to expand...



You can do this and like he says you get an idea.

But in my years of dealing with used JDM motors I have come across a few bad ones. Some with BHG's and 1 with rodknock. But mostly I've had good luck other then these few.

One thing you're going to want to do with a JDM motor is replace every gaskets, timing belt, wp, etc. Would hate to do all the work to replace the motor and get the JDM one in with leaks etc.

May save you some $ to just do the valve job. Weigh in the cost.
 
You can get a long block here in Sacramento with 130k +miles for $1000 with a 6 month warranty. As in if it's a bad motor they will give you another used motor. I believe they can ship as well. From Rancho Cordova. I have bought a couple motors from them and worked out pretty good.
 
1 vote for valve job by a reputable shop or get a whole cylinder head used and work on it off the truck, then swap over. Motor replacement or rebuild seems like way overkill for a fried valve.
 
maybe it's the point/knowledge I'm at in my life... I would rebuild... myself.

I would take the engine apart myself get the block/heads hot-tanked, get a rebuild kit, maybe from dealer, and do all the measurements myself as I put it back together.

it would be a 'new' engine at this time... I might even see if the heads could be polished and some other pistons if I wanted to, maybe lower compression for turbo/super on reg gas.

I've gone the rebuild option, there are shops here in phx az that can rebuild your long block for $950 (i6 200ci 3.3L for 65 mustang) and I wish I did it myself, for fun.
 
SnowLizard said:
I've gone the rebuild option, there are shops here in phx az that can rebuild your long block for $950 (i6 200ci 3.3L for 65 mustang) and I wish I did it myself, for fun.
Click to expand...


Also OP if I were just to do the valve job if it were me I'd pull the whole engine out anyhow to change gaskets and seals.


Snow I just helped a neighbor do this exact thing with his 65 i6
 
Thanks guys just ordered the motor hopefully I'll get a good one w/ no issues. Figure I will do some more upgrading while I'm at it. Tundra brake upgrade, Addco sway bars, and new shocks / springs. Seems like best bang for your buck upgrades. What do you guys suggest for stock height shock / spring set up?
 
Update in case anyone in similar situation and can benefit. Bought a supposedly low mileage used motor from Japan. It arrived and the engine was a mess..whoever drove it never changed the oil. Company shipped me another one and I made sure they took off the valves to make sure it was clean. This one was OK and had it installed w/ new water pump, timing belt, gaskets and seals.

Drove it and the engine drives fine, but I've noticed something odd with the steering. Almost seems like the power steering not working. Mechanic drove it and said to replace bushings so we put in polyurethane bushings and replaced a couple oil cooler hoses that were leaking. Drove it and the steering still feels very sluggish and heavy to maneuver. Anyone have an idea what this could be? It was fine prior to replacing the engine so has to be something related to when they replaced the engine I would think.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 387 (members: 6, guests: 381)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,053
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top