Valve Shim clearance question (highly under covered topic)
- Thread starter ajonesnv
- Start date
ajonesnv
New member
Its not too bad, just sounds like a TDI or something that takes #2 diesel.
Off topic I know, but what part of Smyrna are you in? I went to HS in LaVergne and my bother lives over off of Jefferson Pike out off of Sam Ridley Pkwy.
ajonesnv
New member
OK. so Im preparing to replace the valve components in these two misaligned valves. Someone once said that you can remove the head with out removing the timing belt and the cam pulley. If this is true, the FSM doesn't agree, but it leaves me with two questions:
1. Can someone offer up instructions on the head removal once it is tore down to the valve covers being off, w/o having to remove the timing belt?
2. Can someone also offer up how to remove the valve components once the head is removed?...I cannot find where in the FSM this is located. And have a feeling it is not in there.
I knew my OCD wouldn't let this go! I have it all together and running, but now I have to prepare for a deeper expedition.
1. Can someone offer up instructions on the head removal once it is tore down to the valve covers being off, w/o having to remove the timing belt?
2. Can someone also offer up how to remove the valve components once the head is removed?...I cannot find where in the FSM this is located. And have a feeling it is not in there.
I knew my OCD wouldn't let this go! I have it all together and running, but now I have to prepare for a deeper expedition.
KidVermicious
New member
Redacted to not clutter the thread. Move along nothing to see here.
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ajonesnv
New member
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1. You need to remove the timing belt from the cam pulleys to remove the heads. I wouldn't try to remove the T-belt from just the cam pulleys, without also removing everything else you would remove if you were replacing the T-belt. The reason is that even if you could remove the T-belt from just the cam pulleys, (Which would not be advisable for many reasons) you still want to be able to see that all the timing marks line up correctly, when the T-belt is re-installed.
2. Honestly, that is much more involved than just removing the timing belt. If you don't want to remove the T-belt, then I would suggest having someone qualified service the cylinder head(s).
ajonesnv
New member
I don't need useless adage. The valve seat is not a listed part on the Toyota parts list for the valves, yes I could google valve seat, which I did, and get similar results but that does not further my knowledge concerning a 3rd Gen. So...unless you can offer up and where it is on a 3rd Gen 4Runner from some sort of experience please save your cliche posts for other threads.
Edit: Sorry for coming off as an ass, but this is not what I was asking.
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ajonesnv
New member
I figured as much since that is what the FSM dictates and have no problem doing the extra work, as it won't be my first time...I just wanted to confirm this is right as someone recently said you didn't have to to that to pull the head.
I just, literally two weekends ago, replaced the timing belt. So I'm not gonna lie the idea of being able to do it with out pulling the T-Belt was appealing. But that is A-OK, Ill just make sure I have a couple consecutive days to get it all done under no rush.
19963.4lsr5
New member
I'm sorry but that is out of line. Going through life relying on someone telling you what to do and what is what will only get you so far.
But to answer your question since you don't want to learn on your own. It's a item that's pressed and sometimes pinned into the head at the hole where the valve is. Something you easily could have figured out on your own. Looks like a simple wedding band with a taper machined into the center matching the valve.
ajonesnv
New member
Sorry you feel that way and your assumption that I'm relying on "someone telling you what to do and what is what" is about as presumptive as his post.
I think it is very clear, if the whole thread was read, that I have done very much on my end to "learn on your (my) own." Thats where this forum and every other forum comes into play...answers. If I wanted a 5 second google answer to my question then I would have used the answer I already came up with and based on that search I came up with exactly what his Wiki page gave me. Im looking for a 3rd Gen specific answer, hence me asking here and pardon me if I don't appreciate the canned response "well did you search" or "look it up." You can also pardon me for not wanting to tear into my truck with out a clear direction, again thats why these forums are here, to gleam information from people that have been where I'm trying to go.
With that, I have read through the parts list from Toyota and have also looked through the FSM and these two places do not speak of a valve seat and the only reason I even thought that a valve seat might be my problem is because a Toyota mechanic thought that might be the cause to my problem.
Edit:
With all that I apologize for coming off as an ass.
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I don't have any pics of a 5VZ-FE cylinder head.
But if you just want to see valve seats installed in a cylinder head, here's a cylinder head I recently repaired. The combustion chamber 2nd from the left had extensive damage to the combustion chamber and both valve seats. Fixing it involved adding new aluminum to the chamber, machining it, installing new valve seats, cutting the seats, then a final cleanup of the combustion chambers.
But if you just want to see valve seats installed in a cylinder head, here's a cylinder head I recently repaired. The combustion chamber 2nd from the left had extensive damage to the combustion chamber and both valve seats. Fixing it involved adding new aluminum to the chamber, machining it, installing new valve seats, cutting the seats, then a final cleanup of the combustion chambers.
19963.4lsr5
New member
Valve seats and aluminum heads are always a issue. Especially if overheated. I lost a intake valve seat on my ZX9 engine and it never was overheated. The Mopar 4.7 has exhaust seat issues. For the 4.7 they fall out. For my ZX9 it walked.
ajonesnv
New member
Thanks! You clearly have been deeper in the 5vz-fe than I have, I have two valves that have clearances above 0.054" (the tolerances are 0.011-0.014) I have been given a couple possibilities as to why, one being sunk valve seats...once the head is out, is it very difficult to remove the valve components, as I do not see this in the FSM.
I don't know the actual problem, so I figured for about 70.00 I can replace all the components in each of these valves. Bear in mind it has been this way for about 90,000 miles with no other signs of issues.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
My ZX9's sunk or walked.
Just to be clear, the above pic is not a 5VZ-FE. In fact it's not for any street legal vehicle.
It isn't hard to work on cylinder heads with the proper tools and experience. Like anything, you need to know what you're doing.
I wouldn't recommend replacing valve seats on your daily driver, with no tools or prior experience. By the time you bought basic tools just to install them, you'd have spent more than having a competent shop that works on cylinder heads do the job. Then you'd still want to cut the seats, which takes special tools and experience to do it right.
On the other hand, if it has been and continues to run fine, there's always the option to just leave it alone.
ajonesnv
New member
Yea, I know.
I won't bother messing with doing it myself...I have a line on a complete head too, so I may go that route or just continue to run it as is.
What kind of collateral damage, if any, can be done if the valves finally fail?
19963.4lsr5
New member
A hole in piston crown or a buggered up combustion chamber and a bent valve or two........
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