Valve Shim clearance question (highly under covered topic)

[ajonesnv]

Sounds like your transmission is going out.

That is kinda what I was afraid of. Do you know if I can replace it myself, or should I have someone do it for me? Also, do you know where I can find one?

 

[MandAtaco]

The problem lies within crank vibration. What has probably happened is your torque converter has a bent internal pump fin from from being over revved or jumped or something of the like. When this happens it puts undo vibration on the trans, taking out your overdrive planetary's. As they wear from being "taken out", they begin a process of loosening up the entire trans drive train, taking out bearings and lube ports all down the line. It eventually gets to a point, that the excess play in the transmission causes a harmonic imbalance in the crank shaft. That imbalance cant be compensated for with the OEM harmonic balancer. The extra vibration gets transferred through the timing belt to the water pump pulley, and into the block water jacket. The water/coolent in the motor now has a vibration to it that is translated right up into the head, where the valve train is located, and right into your valves. So now not only do they have to let the engine breathe in and out, but now also fight off the transmission vibrations. You can verify that this is your problem by looking at the transmission shifter and the T-case shifter when you drive. Do they rock back and forth in different directions with the load of the motor? If so your screwed!

Your only two options are, replace the transmission, or look into a crank vibration dampener that has been extra weighted at the correct locations to match up to when those noisy valve are in there open/close cycle.

Now I can make this for you for a small fee ($1489.32), but you'll have to send me the exact valves that you are having issues with so that I can put them into my mathematical formula to figure out where exactly the damper needs weighted.

I know this is a long post, but I want you to truly understand whats going on with your valve noise. You can trust me on this, I'm the son of an ASE certified mechanic. PM with the info I need and I'll get started making your damper.

 

[ajonesnv]

The problem lies within crank vibration. What has probably happened is your torque converter has a bent internal pump fin from from being over revved or jumped or something of the like. When this happens it puts undo vibration on the trans, taking out your overdrive planetary's. As they wear from being "taken out", they begin a process of loosening up the entire trans drive train, taking out bearings and lube ports all down the line. It eventually gets to a point, that the excess play in the transmission causes a harmonic imbalance in the crank shaft. That imbalance cant be compensated for with the OEM harmonic balancer. The extra vibration gets transferred through the timing belt to the water pump pulley, and into the block water jacket. The water/coolent in the motor now has a vibration to it that is translated right up into the head, where the valve train is located, and right into your valves. So now not only do they have to let the engine breathe in and out, but now also fight off the transmission vibrations. You can verify that this is your problem by looking at the transmission shifter and the T-case shifter when you drive. Do they rock back and forth in different directions with the load of the motor? If so your screwed!

Your only two options are, replace the transmission, or look into a crank vibration dampener that has been extra weighted at the correct locations to match up to when those noisy valve are in there open/close cycle.

Now I can make this for you for a small fee ($1489.32), but you'll have to send me the exact valves that you are having issues with so that I can put them into my mathematical formula to figure out where exactly the damper needs weighted.

I know this is a long post, but I want you to truly understand whats going on with your valve noise. You can trust me on this, I'm the son of an ASE certified mechanic. PM with the info I need and I'll get started making your damper.

Wow, just when you think the problem is as deep as where you are looking. So if I send you the head you can figure out the problem. It seems I could probably get a transmission in for that cost as well, so it may be a wash.

Just before you posted I found this: 1999 4Runner 4WD Transmission

What are your thoughts on this? Since you are close by, can I just pay you the 1489.32 to help me remove the old one and put this one in. Maybe you can actually talk to the guy that owns it too...he seems like a dick and since you are a son of a ASE Certified mechanic you might be able to speak his language.

THANKS!!

 

[j.guiz]

Any updates OP?

I know I'm late to this party but just in case anyone else runs into this. I recently ran into this issue. I took 4runner to the dealer due to valve tap I have been experiencing for quite a while now. They found the valve spacing was too far out of spec for shims. They recommended I remove the heads for inspection which was going to cost me another 4runner.

Luckily, the mechanic kept digging and found the wear was in the shim buckets which just pull out after you remove the exhaust cam. No need to undo the timing belt.

The nipple on the underside was worn smooth. After he swapped in new shim buckets and re-measuring with the original shims it was back in spec.

Also, shim buckets are only $20 a piece. I ended up replacing all the exhaust buckets since those were the only ones out of spec.

Engine sounds and runs like new now.

Common cause of this is running the engine low on oil.

Hope this helps.

 

[Slobo]

Any updates OP?

I know I'm late to this party but just in case anyone else runs into this. I recently ran into this issue. I took 4runner to the dealer due to valve tap I have been experiencing for quite a while now. They found the valve spacing was too far out of spec for shims. They recommended I remove the heads for inspection which was going to cost me another 4runner.

Luckily, the mechanic kept digging and found the wear was in the shim buckets which just pull out after you remove the exhaust cam. No need to undo the timing belt.

The nipple on the underside was worn smooth. After he swapped in new shim buckets and re-measuring with the original shims it was back in spec.

Also, shim buckets are only $20 a piece. I ended up replacing all the exhaust buckets since those were the only ones out of spec.

Engine sounds and runs like new now.

Common cause of this is running the engine low on oil.

Hope this helps.

Were your valves way loose? My exhaust valves are way tight, all of them, like 0.002 tight

 

[derekwilliams345]

If im not mistaken, these are shimless buckets you have pictured here, or shim under? The 5vz-fe uses shim over bucket style...

Any updates OP?

I know I'm late to this party but just in case anyone else runs into this. I recently ran into this issue. I took 4runner to the dealer due to valve tap I have been experiencing for quite a while now. They found the valve spacing was too far out of spec for shims. They recommended I remove the heads for inspection which was going to cost me another 4runner.

Luckily, the mechanic kept digging and found the wear was in the shim buckets which just pull out after you remove the exhaust cam. No need to undo the timing belt.

The nipple on the underside was worn smooth. After he swapped in new shim buckets and re-measuring with the original shims it was back in spec.

Also, shim buckets are only $20 a piece. I ended up replacing all the exhaust buckets since those were the only ones out of spec.

Engine sounds and runs like new now.

Common cause of this is running the engine low on oil.

Hope this helps.

 

[mtbtim]

Here's a video that [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION], [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made on this subject. It's on the 4 cylinder 3RZ motor but the technique we share in the video for measuring the valve clearances and then removing and measuring the existing shim and figuring what size shim you would need to bring the clearance back within spec would be the same exact procedure on the 5VZ-FE engine. Hope the video helps someone out.


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/f0zzsBhs3iA" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[gamefreakgc]

If im not mistaken, these are shimless buckets you have pictured here, or shim under? The 5vz-fe uses shim over bucket style...

That's correct, shim under. You can convert a 5VZ-FE to a shim-under-bucket design from a kit from LC Engineering, that's on my to-do list when I re-do my heads to accomodate better my high-lift camshafts. I blew my last engine because a shim made its way out of the bucket. But stock, the shims ride on top of bucket in a small depression.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

That's correct, shim under. You can convert a 5VZ-FE to a shim-under-bucket design from a kit from LC Engineering, that's on my to-do list when I re-do my heads to accomodate better my high-lift camshafts. I blew my last engine because a shim made its way out of the bucket. But stock, the shims ride on top of bucket in a small depression.

What are your cam specs?
Who made them?
Regrinds or new?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gamefreakgc]

What are your cam specs?
Who made them?
Regrinds or new?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Regrinds from Colt Cams in Canada. They were designed for forced induction on the 5VZ-FE but also showed gains on N/A engines. The owner said they were dyno'd for a 22 HP gain at the wheels which was supported by some dyno's by people on customtacos.com before the photos expired. Pretty crazy since a supercharger only gains about 40-50 HP at the wheels and is six times the price. The increase in power from 4000+ RPM was nuts before I blew the engine. That thing hauled with those in. I didn't notice any reduction in power down low, which is always a risk with cams just robbing power down low and putting it up high.

Intake lift is increase but exhaust is unchanged. Does require shim spacers because of the regrinds, which is what I think got me in trouble. Stock valve springs are also not stiff enough and can't handle the extra lift. I'm slowly rebuilding a set of heads I have, will have them ported & polished by someone who knows Toyotas then I'll redo the valve train and put the cams back in.

INT: 262° .347L
EXH: 264° .330L

Don't know the duration.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

The 262 and 264 is the duration. Thanks for the info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gamefreakgc]

The 262 and 264 is the duration. Thanks for the info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry meant lobe separation. Cam stats are confusing for me. It didn't lope at all at idle, ran pretty smooth.