Valves: How tight is too tight?

[clunker]

Started adjusting the valves today on my 3VZE. Problem is that I am hoping to travel this Christmas, and I will not have the new shims in time to repair before the trip. Here is the question. Am I risking damage to the valve seats on a road trip if the clearance is only tight by 2 thousandths of an inch. #4 and #6 exhaust valves are at .007 and .008 respectively, and spec says they should be .009 to .013. All other valves on driver's side are dead on. Are the valves too tight to risk it?

Thanks

 

[KidVermicious]

I don't have a "correct" answer for you, but .002 short is fully 50% out of the acceptable range. I wouldn't risk it.

What's the holdup on the new shims, is your local dealership being lame? I've never had to wait more than a couple days to get stuff from Camelback.

 

[clunker]

Thanks for the response kid. Local dealership does not have ANY shims in stock and they want something like $50 each. ToyotaPartsOverstock.com has them for about $9 each, but the reference shims I bought took them a full week before they shipped and another 3 days before delivery. I need them before next weekend.

Another problem now is that the #6 exhaust shim is impossible to get out. They don't tell you when you buy the tool that it will not work on that valve unless you remove the brake booster.

 

[clunker]

New problem:

I finally was able to get the exhaust valve spring compressed and popped the shim loose, but how are you supposed to pull them out of the bucket? There isn't enough space between the tool and the cam bearing journal for the shim to clear.

 

[KidVermicious]

That tool sucks, I hate it. If the 3VZ is anything like the 3RZ, you're supposed to rotate the cam so the clearance between shim and lobe is greatest, then use the tool between the cam and the edge of the shim bucket to compress the valve spring and give you clearance to slip the shim out. Or at least I think that's how it's supposed to work.

I had NO luck popping the shims free that way, I ended up yanking the cams entirely to get space to remove and replace the shims. I don't know how feasible that is for you, the 3RZ is a timing chain instead of a belt and I had my motor on the stand so it wasn't any extra work at all.

 

[clunker]

Update:

I finally managed to get the shims out. #6 exhaust was a nightmare, but the rest were pretty easy. The tools works pretty well as long as you accept that you will not be able to see what you're doing, and just feel for the right spot to place the wedge tool.

Now I'm on the passenger side, and this is the first time I've removed the intake. There must be 100 vacuum lines attached to that thing. It looks like everything is disconnected from the intake, and it feels loose, but something is still holding it down. Any suggestions?

 

[itgogitrev]

There is a hose that connects under the upper intake manifold, but I can't remember what it is. It'll hold the manifold in place pretty well just by itself.

 

[clunker]

Yep! That coolant hose was the culprit.

I finished all the measurements and put everything back together today. Now I just have to order shims and do it all over again next weekend (if I can get them shipped fast enough). Also found some minor vacuum leaks during the project.

Thanks everyone.

 

[93Y0TA]

I just got a 93 4runner with the 3vze and it's in desperate need of a valve job. I'd rather not have to pull the cam off if I don't have to. I've heard of being able to pull the shims and put new ones in according to proper clearances. How hard is it to do that way? This is the first Toyota I've owned. Thanks in advance for your help guys.

 

[KidVermicious]

I just got a 93 4runner with the 3vze and it's in desperate need of a valve job. I'd rather not have to pull the cam off if I don't have to. I've heard of being able to pull the shims and put new ones in according to proper clearances. How hard is it to do that way? This is the first Toyota I've owned. Thanks in advance for your help guys.

http://www.amazon.com/Valve-Adjusti...=1460076926&sr=8-1&keywords=toyota+valve+tool

These are what you need to slip a shim out and in without pulling the cam. I had my 3RZ (4 cyl, similar valve design) on a stand with full access and I still couldn't make those damned things work, my shims were baked in pretty good. So theoretically that's how you do it, but be prepared to pull the cam anyway.