Vibration in front end of my 95

[jplynch20]

I had a bad vibration in the front end of my 1995 4runner.
This week ive replaced all 4 tires,new wheel bearings (inner/outer),new left and right axles,and new Idler arm. ball joints and tie rods where all good.
front end now feels very tight.

Vibration is now only half as bad as it was but still very much there.
these are the new tires. Town Fair Tire - Prices That Can't Be Beat! No Shipping Charge To Any Town Fair Tire Location.
i know they should vibrate somewhat but it still doesn't seem right
also it seems to vibrate more when i hit the gas and less when i let off
anyone have any ideas of what to check now?

 

[ToyoTech]

sounds your axles are worn out and out of balance
another thing you should look into are some manual hubs. keep the wear and tear down on the cv's

 

[loki the trickster]

did you check the motor mounts?
just my 2 cents

 

[ToyoTech]

motor mounts only cause vibrations at idle but while driving a bad motor mount isnt gonna cause the vibrations. i have had two dead motor mounts in my accord and never knew till i pulled the motor. never vibrated at idle as well. my friend has a motor mount with no rubber left lol and it doesnt even cause any vibrations.
not saying you shouldnt check them and fix if they are bad but the problem your having doesnt sound like a motor mount.

 

[jplynch20]

U-joints

I'm going to replace the u-joints in the drive shaft Sunday. does the front drive shaft spin when in 2WD?

 

[2ndGen4runner4x4]

Are you sure it's in the front end? Motor and tranny mounts can mask themselves to "feel" that way.
Front shaft doesn't spin when in 2WD. Possibly the front diff is staying engaged?.. but you still should have no bad vibes either way.
Also - You could try pulling the rear drive shaft and drive it around in 4(front)WD to see if things smooth out... or not. That would at least eliminate the rear driveshaft/diff.

 

[jplynch20]

Replaced U-joints

Replaced U-joints in the rear drive shaft today and still have vibration.
I put the car back up in the air and the shaft is still vibrating. Looks to be coming from the front Bearing in the rear diff.
How hard is this to replace?
I'm also thinking of having the whole rear rebuilt. it has 286,000 miles on it.
It has the 4.88 gears. What should a rebuild cost me parts and labor? or is there a good kit someone can recommend so i can do it myself.

 

[Bad_Vision]

sounds like the pinion shim needs to be replaced. if they put new gears in it and didnt shim it correctly it could cause a shimmy as it almost skips teeth on the ring gear

 

[BucknutBob]

Replaced U-joints in the rear drive shaft today and still have vibration.
I put the car back up in the air and the shaft is still vibrating. Looks to be coming from the front Bearing in the rear diff.
How hard is this to replace?
I'm also thinking of having the whole rear rebuilt. it has 286,000 miles on it.
It has the 4.88 gears. What should a rebuild cost me parts and labor? or is there a good kit someone can recommend so i can do it myself.

Not sure of the cost for a rebuild, jp, but you almost certainly need to take it to a shop for this. There are specialized tools used, and you want an experienced eye setting the lash/gap--if this is done wrong, the rebuild will not last long (that's why prebuilt diffs are so popular--pull one out, put the other one in--no measuring/shimming necessary).

 

[2ndGen4runner4x4]

It has the 4.88 gears. What should a rebuild cost me parts and labor? or is there a good kit someone can recommend so i can do it myself.

I am going through this myself and I have been told that an aftermarket 4:88 R&P will not work with the factory 4:88 carrier. This is due to a toyota designed ring gear being thinner to work with a larger offset pinion.
I do believe that if you were to install a differen't carrier (maybe a locker or limited slip) then you can go with the aftermarket 4:88's.
Someone correct me if I am wrong here.

 

[mikedks]

I just fixed a bad rear vibration in my 95 in the last 2 weeks. Mine was nothing more than a loose nut on the companion flange coming off the transfer case. As I understand it, the nut on the companion flange coming off the differential or transfer case can loosen over time, even if staked. Not much on T4R about this issue, but do a search on Yotatech and there are quite a few threads about it, seems common. Just beware of the Yotatechies, they can be quite ill-tempered and the mods will ban you for breathing. I was banned for using
"shat", lol.

My advice before you start looking for a new rear, drop the rear DS, unstake the companion flange nuts, retorque to 90 ft/lbs, reinstall DS. You may just
luck out like I did.

30 minutes, can't hurt.