VSC OFF and TRAC/VSC lights both came on

quicksilvr

New member
I just finished upgrading the dash to red LED's. To do so, I had the center diff lock button disconnected, as well as the gauge cluster obviously. Now, as soon as I put the truck in gear and move, the VSC and TRAC lights both pop on.

Do I just need to disconnect the battery to reset the ECU? I'm more baffled as to what caused the truck to decide to disable VSC and TRAC. Any input would be great. I searched a little bit, but didn't take the time to dig through lots and lots of stuff to try and find the exact same issue.
 
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I have been dealing with this same issue for like 4 months actually. Exactly what you describe, the lights dont come on until I start moving. No matter how I long I set there before I do.

I recently picked up a new TRAC relay from a part out of an 02 4runner. The part number is 89633-24010. Google it, its like $50. I got it for $8.

I will try swapping the relays tomorrow and see if that fixes it. I also mentioned this to my dealer service manager, and he said it could be one of the ABS speed sensors, seeing as how the lights come on when it starts moving.

But now that you mention this happening after you went into the gauge cluster. I remember that this did not start happening to me until the day I put in my S/C. So maybe I messed something up in the wiring back there.. I'll look into it if this relay doesnt fix it.
 
Yep, identical issue.

I also started thinking: my SGII was hooked up to the OBDII port the whole time I was pluggin and unplugged the cluster, turning the key to check light's that I'd changed, etc.

I wonder if somehow the zero-point calibration got messed up? The info on that stuff has to do with 4th gen's...but I would think it might still apply.

Was your SGII hooked up when you were messing with your cluster and then had the lights come on?
 
I didnt have a SG that last time I was swapping LEDs. And when I was putting in my S/C I was only messing with the ECU wires, but at that time I did have the SG plugged it..


Also, I forgot to mention that I have tried the Zero-point calibration many times with no help.
 
Suck. I was sure this was going to be easy to fix. Maybe not.

But it seems that we both did SOMETHING that set it off....
 
I'm wondering what we both could have physically done that would have set this in motion. Because it's seems pretty apparent to me that we both did something to cause this.

Where is the Skid Control ECU located?
 
Just saw this on one of the FSM pages...

"HINT: If fail safe function is activated in VSC system, the ”VSC OFF” indicator light lights up."


What can trigger the failsafe? And how is it reset?
 
Ill look into more when classes are over.

But one other option is a diagnostic scan. The dealer charges 90 bucks for it, but it will tell us why those lights are on.
 
I've been using the highly complex black electrical tape mod to fix this issue.

It's worked great over the last 20k miles.
 
I've been using the highly complex black electrical tape mod to fix this issue.

It's worked great over the last 20k miles.

Ha, I thought about that. I've only driven it once in the snow/slick....and honestly, I kind of like not having trac or vsc. The trac definitely helps with overall ability to move forward in poor conditions, but I also know that in 4wd I can go pretty much anywhere I want even without trac. And it's more fun to drive without the Trac/VSC for sure. Less beeping, shuddering, growling and such. lol

However, I will always bother me if I leave it alone. I'll fix it, and then do the Bagel mod.
 
Wait...just bc the light is on doesn't mean the system isn't working.

It's like a mf'ing oxy sensor or some bs setting the light off.

Don't I sound like I know what I'm talking about here?
 
I stopped in my dealership. They said $50 to hook it up and try to simply reset it. If that doesn't work, and they have to actually do diagnostics, it'll be $92.

I'm scheduled for tomorrow afternoon at 2:30. I think the $50 reset will fix it. I can't imagine something getting too messed up just because I had the cluster out.
 
I stopped in my dealership. They said $50 to hook it up and try to simply reset it. If that doesn't work, and they have to actually do diagnostics, it'll be $92.

I'm scheduled for tomorrow afternoon at 2:30. I think the $50 reset will fix it. I can't imagine something getting too messed up just because I had the cluster out.

So if they do the reset then have to diagnose it, is that 92 on top of the 50? Or just 92 total?

Keep me updated on this.
 
No, just $42 more. So $50 at min, $92 at max. Unless I tell them to start ripping out the wiring harness and going crazy. lol
 

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