VSCOFF TRAC ABS VSC keep showing up

sr3tlaw

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And its really freaking annoying it'll go off when I turn my car off and back on it just turns on randomly
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]
 
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And its really freaking annoying it'll go off when I turn my car off and back on it just turns on randomly
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]

I got the lights from a bad O2 sensor but they kept lighting up after fixing it. I found that clearing the codes stopped them from coming back on. Strikes me as odd but that's what worked for me after disconnecting the battery didn't.

Just my 2¢, trust [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] before me.
 
I got the lights from a bad O2 sensor but they kept lighting up after fixing it. I found that clearing the codes stopped them from coming back on. Strikes me as odd but that's what worked for me after disconnecting the battery didn't.

Just my 2¢, trust [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] before me.
How did you determine it was an O2 sensor if they come on only when car started
 
I had the same and had to replace an O2 sensor. I can't remember the code but most auto parts stores will run the code for free.
 
I had been getting the same thing on mine ever since doing my Daystar lift. The lights came on every time until I replaced the speed sensor wires in the front. It then would come on randomly again, so I bought a U-Scan tool that connects to my phone. I could clear codes at that point, but I kept getting a C1223 and a C1249 code randomly. I ended up figuring out what I had done to cause it.....I had a broom stick on the brake while I was swapping out my CVs in the front and must have ruined the brake light switch. I ended up changing that out and it has all cleared up.

I love paying for stupidity
 
I had been getting the same thing on mine ever since doing my Daystar lift. The lights came on every time until I replaced the speed sensor wires in the front. It then would come on randomly again, so I bought a U-Scan tool that connects to my phone. I could clear codes at that point, but I kept getting a C1223 and a C1249 code randomly. I ended up figuring out what I had done to cause it.....I had a broom stick on the brake while I was swapping out my CVs in the front and must have ruined the brake light switch. I ended up changing that out and it has all cleared up.

I love paying for stupidity
Lmao! That made me laugh. Appreciate your honesty. I did put in an ICON Stage 1 but didn't use a broom stick. I have noticed since then the traction control is super sensitive even with my new tires on dry pavement. Not sure what "Zero Point" calibration does or if I need it. I'm guessing you're referring to the little brown/blue connector under the brake pedal. The third thing it may be is my O2 sensor. Buy again I don't think any diagnostic codes will show since its intermittent. Ugh
 
Lmao! That made me laugh. Appreciate your honesty. I did put in an ICON Stage 1 but didn't use a broom stick. I have noticed since then the traction control is super sensitive even with my new tires on dry pavement. Not sure what "Zero Point" calibration does or if I need it. I'm guessing you're referring to the little brown/blue connector under the brake pedal. The third thing it may be is my O2 sensor. Buy again I don't think any diagnostic codes will show since its intermittent. Ugh

Mine was only coming on at the first 1-2 start ups of the day, and when it was colder than 50. Not very random, but annoying either way. Zero Point didn't work for mine, but I got the initial codes with the paperclip OBD2 plug jumper trick on my 06. Maybe you can do that to check it out. The codes come up with the ABS and Trac lights flashing a series of numbers, and that's how I got the news on the speed sensor wires.
 
Mine was only coming on at the first 1-2 start ups of the day, and when it was colder than 50. Not very random, but annoying either way. Zero Point didn't work for mine, but I got the initial codes with the paperclip OBD2 plug jumper trick on my 06. Maybe you can do that to check it out. The codes come up with the ABS and Trac lights flashing a series of numbers, and that's how I got the news on the speed sensor wires.
What is the Zero Point do exactly? Any thread link to this paper clip trick?
 
All the links to the paper clip trick are for 05 and older. I had to dig around and figure out myself.

Take a paperclip and make it a U, and jump the 4th pin on the top row from the left, and the 5th pin on the bottom row from the right. Turn the key to the ON position, and pump the brakes until the car beeps at you, or the Christmas tree of ABS lights goes out. The ABS, and the TRAC lights will then start blinking the codes. count the number of blinks for each of the lights. Example: the ABS light will bling 2x, pause for a second, then blink 4 more. It will then pause for 3 or so seconds, and repeat. Same with the TRAC. You will end up with a 2 digit code, like 43, 47, etc. I had 2 codes, 1 of them was the speed sensor wire on the driver side, and the other was a general ABS fault. After getting these codes, Google them.

The zero point I wasn't too sure with, because it didn't clear anything up.

This is the cheapest way to check initially......then it gets more expensive after that. Good luck!
 
i had a check engine light on also. it was a bad o2 senser in bank 2. replaced sensor and the vsc and trac was still on. i did a zero point calibration and now its fixed. when you calibrate it, it will restore the yaw rate sensor back to zero.
 
i had a check engine light on also. it was a bad o2 senser in bank 2. replaced sensor and the vsc and trac was still on. i did a zero point calibration and now its fixed. when you calibrate it, it will restore the yaw rate sensor back to zero.
Zero Point Calibration does what, something I can do myself?
 
All the links to the paper clip trick are for 05 and older. I had to dig around and figure out myself.

Take a paperclip and make it a U, and jump the 4th pin on the top row from the left, and the 5th pin on the bottom row from the right. Turn the key to the ON position, and pump the brakes until the car beeps at you, or the Christmas tree of ABS lights goes out. The ABS, and the TRAC lights will then start blinking the codes. count the number of blinks for each of the lights. Example: the ABS light will bling 2x, pause for a second, then blink 4 more. It will then pause for 3 or so seconds, and repeat. Same with the TRAC. You will end up with a 2 digit code, like 43, 47, etc. I had 2 codes, 1 of them was the speed sensor wire on the driver side, and the other was a general ABS fault. After getting these codes, Google them.

The zero point I wasn't too sure with, because it didn't clear anything up.

This is the cheapest way to check initially......then it gets more expensive after that. Good luck!
I'm definitely going to try this tonight. Where are these pins located? Are you speaking of the drivers side relay junction block or by the master cylinder
 
All the links to the paper clip trick are for 05 and older. I had to dig around and figure out myself.

Take a paperclip and make it a U, and jump the 4th pin on the top row from the left, and the 5th pin on the bottom row from the right. Turn the key to the ON position, and pump the brakes until the car beeps at you, or the Christmas tree of ABS lights goes out. The ABS, and the TRAC lights will then start blinking the codes. count the number of blinks for each of the lights. Example: the ABS light will bling 2x, pause for a second, then blink 4 more. It will then pause for 3 or so seconds, and repeat. Same with the TRAC. You will end up with a 2 digit code, like 43, 47, etc. I had 2 codes, 1 of them was the speed sensor wire on the driver side, and the other was a general ABS fault. After getting these codes, Google them.

The zero point I wasn't too sure with, because it didn't clear anything up.

This is the cheapest way to check initially......then it gets more expensive after that. Good luck!

Are you sure with that procedure?
Because if you connect terminals TC (pin 13) and CG (pin 4) of the DLC3/OBD2 connector (relevant to 2006 and later 4Runners) and then turn the ignition switch ON and depress the brake pedal 8 times or more within 5 seconds you will basically clear all DTCs (error codes) stored in the computer.
If they really stored you may want to read them first just jumping that pins like you said and not pumping the brake pedal at this point.
This info I took from the BC-41 service manual (BRAKE CONTROL – VEHICLE STABILITY CONTROL SYSTEM).

I have same problem with lights showing up (constantly) time to time usually when making turns. They're off when I turn ignition on again. DTCs seems not to be stored in the system memory. When I try to do zero point calibration described in http://www.toyota-4runner.org/probl...ts-zero-point-calibration-11.html#post2180824 lights not appear for a longer time.
 
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I'm definitely going to try this tonight. Where are these pins located? Are you speaking of the drivers side relay junction block or by the master cylinder

Sorry, didn't get back on last night. The one at the driver left leg under the fuse panel.
 
Are you sure with that procedure?
Because if you connect terminals TC (pin 13) and CG (pin 4) of the DLC3/OBD2 connector (relevant to 2006 and later 4Runners) and then turn the ignition switch ON and depress the brake pedal 8 times or more within 5 seconds you will basically clear all DTCs (error codes) stored in the computer.
If they really stored you may want to read them first just jumping that pins like you said and not pumping the brake pedal at this point.
This info I took from the BC-41 service manual (BRAKE CONTROL – VEHICLE STABILITY CONTROL SYSTEM).

I have same problem with lights showing up (constantly) time to time usually when making turns. They're off when I turn ignition on again. DTCs seems not to be stored in the system memory. When I try to do zero point calibration described in http://www.toyota-4runner.org/probl...ts-zero-point-calibration-11.html#post2180824 lights not appear for a longer time.

Doing the procedure will clear the codes, yes. If the codes still exist after clearing, they will show up again. I did it this way to make sure I was starting with a fresh set of codes. *worked for me, I can't say if it works for others*
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvtwFVT1Q10. this is a link that i found on youtube that shows you. i have a 2004 so my directions were different because my obd was an iso and they changed to obd can on 2005-2009 t4r. so i tried this on my moms rav 4 and it worked. zero point calibration will set everything back at zero in your ecu for your yaw rate sensor. you must make sure the vehicle is still and on a level surface. research thru many forums..was really annoying to look at and didnt wanna pay dealer for something that took coupe minutes. good luck hope it works
 
Doing the procedure will clear the codes, yes. If the codes still exist after clearing, they will show up again. I did it this way to make sure I was starting with a fresh set of codes. *worked for me, I can't say if it works for others*
Thank-you guys so much! I'm going to do this! [MENTION=59743]Darwalk[/MENTION] I'm going to follow the same procedure as the video posted by [MENTION=121505]namco916[/MENTION] but with pins 13 & 4, turn the ignition on and press the brakes with a foot seizure 8 times in 5 seconds. Please verify
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvtwFVT1Q10. this is a link that i found on youtube that shows you. i have a 2004 so my directions were different because my obd was an iso and they changed to obd can on 2005-2009 t4r. so i tried this on my moms rav 4 and it worked. zero point calibration will set everything back at zero in your ecu for your yaw rate sensor. you must make sure the vehicle is still and on a level surface. research thru many forums..was really annoying to look at and didnt wanna pay dealer for something that took coupe minutes. good luck hope it works
 
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