Warning newbie questions ahead

Lsuwhodat

New member
Sorry guys I searched but am coming up short on my specific question. Perhaps I suck at the search.

My wife took her 4R (2011 SR5)to the dealership to get the oil changed. I usually do it myself but we had a coupon so hey what the heck.

After they changed the oil they did their inspection and came back with the following recommendations. There is residue on upper ball joints, need to look further. Drivers side shock is leaking needs to be looked at further. Rear brakes need to be changed.

So fast forward. She has 75k so I was already about to change the rear pads out. First question is the tech told her it requires a special tool. I have all of my normal brake job tools. Are they any different???? or is he just trying to talk my wife into paying for it? This was yesterday and I have not had a chance to crawl under there, but first impression is the ball joints are fine. Maybe they had some extra grease and caught some dirt. The shocks were already in the works as I have had my eyes on the Billy 5100 shocks. I haven't looked to close yet but this is a 2wd that never sees grass. All I want is a bit less of the nose dive and a bit more leveling. I have already upgraded tires. Do I really need a spacer? How difficult a job is this?

I grew up with Jeeps and leaf springs so I am no coil expert.
 
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... The shocks were already in the works as I have had my eyes on the Billy 5100 shocks. I haven't looked to close yet but this is a 2wd that never sees grass. All I want is a bit less of the nose dive and a bit more leveling. I have already upgraded tires. Do I really need a spacer? How difficult a job is this?

Bilsteins with the front set @ .85 will bring the truck to very-nearly-level. Some who want a little overall lift will go to the next higher setting plus a 1" rear spacer. *Some* improvement to nose dive is had, but it is not eliminated without stiffer springs. I'm satisfied with the .85 setting.

Afterwards, an alignment is usually recommended with the caster set to as near 4* as possible.
 
You will be able to change your brake pads. Very few regular maint items a competent shade mechanic can't do.
 
he just meant the special 'tools' that they have in their garage with Toyota printed across their shirts...


its not that big of a deal...
 
to be fair, i just changed the rear pads and rotors on my buddies 2011 Ford Edge and the rear caliper requires a special tool for the piston to be compressed. for some reason, there needs to be constant pressure applied while the whole piston is rotated clockwise to "screw" it back in.

weird as hell... i used a c clamp and a pair of channel locks but, i was stumped for about an hour trying to figure out what the hell was going on.
 
to be fair, i just changed the rear pads and rotors on my buddies 2011 Ford Edge and the rear caliper requires a special tool for the piston to be compressed. for some reason, there needs to be constant pressure applied while the whole piston is rotated clockwise to "screw" it back in.

weird as hell... i used a c clamp and a pair of channel locks but, i was stumped for about an hour trying to figure out what the hell was going on.

VW's same way. I have rigged up some serious shit to get those pistons pushed back in, lol.
 
all you really need is this guy :)
 

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This is the tool I use for rear brakes.
Sorry for Cell pic...
 

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Last edited:
In other news here is a CRV filter I just destroyed getting off. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1440767809.739857.jpg
 

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