Wax On Wax Off

[SgnDen]

So it occurred to me that of all the vehicles I have had, I have only purchased a few brand new and it's been a long time.

What is the prevailing wisdom around the way to keep the very best finish right from the factory?

That is - Winter's coming...is it a good idea to get after it with a top-shelf wax before the crap weather hits? Sort of a good "foundation" idea.

I know it'll be fine if I did nothing but thought I'd ask some of you detailer types who may be around here.

I've got plenty of Zymol stuff in the cabinet and few other potions I have used on fancier cars and motorcycles but want to do the right thing if it's a good idea with a brand new rig like this straight from the factory.

 

[heron163]

its hard to beat the Zymol stuff although a bit more difficult to apply than the new synthetic waxes. I use the zymol "Toyota" formula...

 

[Okki]

I use Griots Garage paint sealant followed by the "Best in Show" wax. Ideally you let the sealant "soak in" over night before you buff it and follow it with the wax.

Okki

 

[SgnDen]

its hard to beat the Zymol stuff although a bit more difficult to apply than the new synthetic waxes. I use the zymol "Toyota" formula...

So it's not really overkill to lay-on a Zymol regimen right on top of the factory fresh finish?

Thanks.

 

[heron163]

Zymol advises that you strip any existing wax off first to ensure best adhesion. I do it first wash.

 

[1engineer]

I have a diffferent outlook after 30+ years of waxing vehicles. I have used almost every kind of wax or "sealant." The best life I have gotten was eight weeks based on observation and "slickness" no matter what I used and some of it was expensive! I have even NOT waxed a vehicle for a year just to see any difference and even though it was harder to wash it really made no difference in shine as it was a gray vehicle. Now I just use Turtle Wax Ice spray detailer once every few weeks. If I get a light scratch I use a cleaner wax. Simple. In winter if it is a nice day I just use the detailer if not it's no big deal as I follow the 10/10 rule of 10 feet or 10 mph. If it looks good at that distance or speed its good for me lol.

 

[SgnDen]

I have a diffferent outlook after 30+ years of waxing vehicles. I have used almost every kind of wax or "sealant." The best life I have gotten was eight weeks based on observation and "slickness" no matter what I used and some of it was expensive! I have even NOT waxed a vehicle for a year just to see any difference and even though it was harder to wash it really made no difference in shine as it was a gray vehicle. Now I just use Turtle Wax Ice spray detailer once every few weeks. If I get a light scratch I use a cleaner wax. Simple. In winter if it is a nice day I just use the detailer if not it's no big deal as I follow the 10/10 rule of 10 feet or 10 mph. If it looks good at that distance or speed its good for me lol.

Thanks 1engineer. Yeah, with few exceptions I am right with ya in the school of 10/10 (or 15/15 as the case may be!).

 

[desertred]

Unfortunately, due to the tumbleweed scratches and other road debris, its time to pull out the PC are go over the whole vehicle with some Meguiars cleaners. Likely to finish it off with some NXT or High Tech Yellow Wax.

 

[westwind77]

I just did our 3 vehicles this past week with this...

http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g18211-ultimate-wax-paste/

I used it last year and was happy. I do it now, then in the spring after the winter/snow/salt.

I am by no means a 'detailer expert', but I have been happy with this product. I know other put a LOT more time and effort into their shine!

 

[jca21]

i like to use turtle wax platinum for winter and meguiars tech wax 2.0 for summer.


lately i've been using collonite though for winter as it seems to produce a very durable finish.

 

[weeeee]

So many detailing questions have popped up on here the last few weeks that I should probably make a DIY thread.

I own and operate a high end detailing business on the side. I've detailed anything between daily driven trucks to high end Porsches and Lamborghinis.

For winter protection against the elements on a daily driven vehicle, I'd recommend starting with a synthetic sealant/wax first. Sealants last anywhere between 5-12 months before the protective qualities begin to wear off, whereas with your typical carnauba wax the protection only lasts 6 weeks or less. The only downside to using a sealant vs. a typical carnauba wax is that waxes tend to leave a deeper shine.

The long term protection of a sealant makes it ideal for winter protection against the elements and for a good base layer of protection. Most sealants can be topped with layers of carnauba waxes, giving you the protection of a sealant with the deep shine of carnauba wax.

On my personal and customer vehicles, I use Klasse High Gloss sealant, imported from Germany. This is the same brand most Mercedes dealerships use on their vehicles. The typical application lasts about 12 months. Klasse can be purchased online at a variety of different retailers.

I'll probably be making a thread for detailing now.

 

[SgnDen]

So many detailing questions have popped up on here the last few weeks that I should probably make a DIY thread.

I own and operate a high end detailing business on the side. I've detailed anything between daily driven trucks to high end Porsches and Lamborghinis.

For winter protection against the elements on a daily driven vehicle, I'd recommend starting with a synthetic sealant/wax first. Sealants last anywhere between 5-12 months before the protective qualities begin to wear off, whereas with your typical carnauba wax the protection only lasts 6 weeks or less. The only downside to using a sealant vs. a typical carnauba wax is that waxes tend to leave a deeper shine.

The long term protection of a sealant makes it ideal for winter protection against the elements and for a good base layer of protection. Most sealants can be topped with layers of carnauba waxes, giving you the protection of a sealant with the deep shine of carnauba wax.

On my personal and customer vehicles, I use Klasse High Gloss sealant, imported from Germany. This is the same brand most Mercedes dealerships use on their vehicles. The typical application lasts about 12 months. Klasse can be purchased online at a variety of different retailers.

I'll probably be making a thread for detailing now.

Thanks weeeee:

So just put a sealer right over the factory finish as-is? No claying or such thing prior?

I was once referred to Menzerna brand sealer (and other products)...I'll check out the Klasse brand too.

 

[JohnnyT]

I have a diffferent outlook after 30+ years of waxing vehicles. I have used almost every kind of wax or "sealant." The best life I have gotten was eight weeks based on observation and "slickness" no matter what I used and some of it was expensive! I have even NOT waxed a vehicle for a year just to see any difference and even though it was harder to wash it really made no difference in shine as it was a gray vehicle. Now I just use Turtle Wax Ice spray detailer once every few weeks. If I get a light scratch I use a cleaner wax. Simple. In winter if it is a nice day I just use the detailer if not it's no big deal as I follow the 10/10 rule of 10 feet or 10 mph. If it looks good at that distance or speed its good for me lol.

You're spot on regarding an awful lot of subjects, but you are way off on this one. You have certainly used the wrong products, techniques, or both but perhaps it's because its low on the priority list like it is for most people.

One of the best sealants that when applied after polishing will bead and last at least 3 months (even if applied less than properly) is Collinite 845. It's $14. It takes very little effort to work with. Other sealants last almost as long and are just as easy to use but cost $40.

Proper protection before winter (supplemented by the occasional wash and spray wax) is most important for vehicles subjected to road grime, salt, sand, etc. If you live in Arizona and the like, detailing is much easier.

 

[j_shoe99]

There already is a thread on detailing on this site.

HERE.

I used it extensively after first purchasing my new 4R! I figured out how to properly wash my black 4R!:thanks:

 

[SgnDen]

You're spot on regarding an awful lot of subjects, but you are way off on this one. You have certainly used the wrong products, techniques, or both but perhaps it's because its low on the priority list like it is for most people.

One of the best sealants that when applied after polishing will bead and last at least 3 months (even if applied less than properly) is Collinite 845. It's $14. It takes very little effort to work with. Other sealants last almost as long and are just as easy to use but cost $40.

Proper protection before winter (supplemented by the occasional wash and spray wax) is most important for vehicles subjected to road grime, salt, sand, etc. If you live in Arizona and the like, detailing is much easier.

Which Collonite product exactly? I searched and see there are few with different names. Thanks.

 

[JohnnyT]

Thanks weeeee:

So just put a sealer right over the factory finish as-is? No claying or such thing prior?

I was once referred to Menzerna brand sealer (and other products)...I'll check out the Klasse brand too.

Claying is necessary on most brand new vehicles that just leave the lot believe it or not. Most dealers use totally neophytes to detail your car before pickup. They do more harm than good.

If you take your naked hand to the cars paint and it is not like absolute glass, then you should clay. Follow it with a wash, a light polish, and then a quality sealant.

Menzerna Powerlock and Klasse AIO are excellent products. Klasse has some light abrasives in it so if you use this you can probably skip the light polish step. You'll see the dirt on your applicator where as you won't with a pure sealant.

 

[JohnnyT]

Which Collonite product exactly? I searched and see there are few with different names. Thanks.

Collinite 845

Go here.... Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845, liquid wax, heat-resistant wax, car wax

 

[MpJustice]

First if you do not like the fine line spider web scratches hand wash. I usually after I had wash dry with microfiber towels and then use a spray wax from mcguires is use it almost like a detail spray and keeps a good coat of protectent on truck. After that every 3 months I put a good fresh coat of paste wax.

 

[SgnDen]

First if you do not like the fine line spider web scratches hand wash. I usually after I had wash dry with microfiber towels and then use a spray wax from mcguires is use it almost like a detail spray and keeps a good coat of protectent on truck. After that every 3 months I put a good fresh coat of paste wax.

Saying to ONLY do hand washing/waxing flies in the face of virtually every professional detailing advice thread I've found. They all said to use a good quality random orbital polisher (emphasizing good quality) and Lake Country pads or other top quality pads.

Is it really a mistake to use a power polisher? Of course the hand polishing (don't say it) works well but....?

 

[Ukie]

Collinite 845
Go here.... Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845, liquid wax, heat-resistant wax, car wax

Your local Advance Autoparts might carry Collinite 845. Check it in store or online shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_insulator-wax-(16-oz-)-collinite_7110036-p?searchTerm=845

Before you apply Collinite 845, you should shake a bottle until wax gets to a milk-like consistency.
Also Collinite 845 doesn't stain trim, so it's easy to work with.

I usually top Collinite 845 with Collinite 476s (carnauba wax) for better durability
collinite.com/automotive-wax/super-doublecoat-paste-wax/