weeeee
New member
Thanks! Have a few more trips up my sleeve this year...
weeeee's build thread
- Thread starter weeeee
- Start date
Thanks! Have a few more trips up my sleeve this year...
Padres86
New member
Your trip looked amazing. Going to plan a trip to Grand Canyon with the family next year (going to Sequoia and Yosemite this year). Additionally, thanks for the input on suspension. I think I'll go with a King shock and Total Chaos UCA set up for my 4Runner (vice the Icons). Curious though, after browsing around both King and TC websites, how they list their parts is a little confusing. If you don't mind me asking but I was curious specifically did you go for the OEM kind front and rear shocks as well as stock length upper and lower TC control arms? So many parts and it's kinda confusing navigating their page.
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weeeee
New member
Yeah, I think the main reason Icon has been so successful is they truly package their suspension packages together- although my personal opinion is that their parts are a little overpriced because of this very reason.
At minimum, you'll need UCAs, front and rear coilovers/shocks, and rear springs. No need for LCAs- you won't need those for a mid-travel application.
FRONTS
King OEM Performance fronts 25001-278 (add -A for CDC adjuster version, -E for extended travel version w/ spacer removed)
REARS
King OEM Performance rears 25001-279 (add -A for CDC adjuster version, -E for extended travel version w/ spacer removed)
Honestly if you can't see yourself dialing in the shocks often, do yourself a favor and save the $600 to skip the CDCs. I bought mine with, and haven't taken mine off the factory settings. They come with 550# springs normally (supports factory weight, and maybe a hidden winch mount). Any more weight and I'd probably bump the springs up to 650#. FWIW, I'm running 700# springs with full plate bumper, winch, upgraded battery, full steel skids, and a RTT and I still don't have enough to preload the spring properly- I'm literally at the lowest height setting on the Kings.
UCAS
TC UCAs with urethane bushings #96504
There's also an option for the heims, but IMO it's not worth the upgrade on a daily driver.
REAR SPRINGS
Unless you're getting a full plate rear bumper, drawers, etc. right off the bat, go with a standard 2" lift spring (Toytec RCC2.0, OME 886, Icon 52700, etc.).
Hope that helps!
Padres86
New member
Jesus thank you! So much easier in plain damn English. You have no idea how much time I spent looking at their website(s) trying to decipher what the hell was on there!
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4Running303
New member
Also, not sure if you have KDSS, but I just ordered my King's yesterday...I'm revamping my setup which is going to end up being a mix of the Kings on all four corners with parts from my current setup. I'll be running Toytec's Superflex coils in the rear, Rokmen rear arms/panhard, and SPC UCA's (for now).
Part number for the coilovers for KDSS equipped 4runners: 25001-243 (A for adjustable, E for extended length). I did not opt for the heavier springs on my coilovers...the 700 lb springs would be too much for what I run, even with an aluminum plate bumper and winch...and after to talking to a couple of dealers they both advised against it, unless I wanted it to ride like a dump truck. I just don't have enough static weight for it.
Agree with weeeee, not really worth the extra money for the adjustable knob.
Last edited:
LawnDart
Senior Member
It's worth it for the adjustable valving. Especially when you're off camber and trying to control body roll.
4Running303
New member
Agree...I should have qualified my statement...its not worth it for most people because they will likely set it or return it to the original setting and leave it. If you are varying your load often (removing RTT's, gear, heavy stuff, etc.), and then also daily driving it without said load, it is definitely worth it in my opinion!
weeeee
New member
I run the same setting between fully loaded and unloaded, but I'm also running 700# front springs and Icon HD rears. I get a little bit of lift back and less body roll without the weight but the valving is still fine for me. On trips I drive on lots of varying terrain and never needed to adjust them to suit my weight or load.
That may be specific to my application, as I had my Kings valved to match my loaded weight and the heavier springs. If it's fine why touch it? It's a $600 upgrade that I'll never use. Even with LT trucks, I doubt 90% of users will tune rebound, change dampening, etc. every time they hit a different trail- most just tune it once and leave it.
weeeee
New member
I have a small, fits just perfect on top of the roof with very minimal overhang. Usually it's just myself and occasionally my wife, so the sizing is pretty adequate for my needs.
The JB tents are pretty nice, most are quite a bit larger. I wouldn't mind the hydro tent opening system and the larger windows either, but I like how much I can pack inside the Autohome (for instance- pillow, sleeping bag, sleeping clothes)- the low profile of the JB wouldn't be able to handle all of that. It's awesome rolling up to camp and being able to crank it up, deploy the ladder, and be completely ready to hit the sack without setting anything else up. Honestly you can't go wrong with either. I scored a screaming deal on my Autohome, so that made my decision that much easier.
Padres86
New member
OEM Blind Spot Mirror Retrofit
I noticed that quite a few Toyota models currently share the same side mirrors. I debated whether or not I wanted to retrofit the blind spot monitoring system onto the 4Runner, but decided against it because I will probably not get much use out of it.
Instead, I retrofitted a side view mirror from a 2016+ RAV4 with the integrated blind spot mirror. These look way better than the stick-on convex mirrors I had before.
Literally all you need is the actual mirror element from the RAV4. You will retain the factory heating, etc. and it all bolts up.
Here's the part numbers:
Gently pry off the original mirror, remove the OEM heater connector and you'll end up with this
Put the new mirror in
All done. This mod took me about 5 minutes to complete :banana:
Hey weeeee having a little difficulty trying to get the OEM heater connection removed from the mirror. Wanted to see how you got it off without damaging the connection.
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weeeee
New member
It's a two prong electrical connector. IIRC there's either a tab you'll need to depress or it should just pull straight out. From what I remember it was just pull straight out. If you take a pic of the connector ill know for sure.
Padres86
New member
I got it thanks. The prongs were stuck in there. There definitely was no tab. Looked all around for one but needless to say the old mirror heater connection points took a little damage but meh, won't be using those ever again
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carlomagne
New member
This needs to be updated!
weeeee
New member
New kicks. 34's and SCS F5s :biggrin1:
Are those 285/75r17 ? How the transmission is handling the 34 ? Did you regear ?
weeeee
New member
I opted for the wider one in 305/70. I figured if I changed tires I'd go bigger/wider. 285/75 was a close pick too but I've had skinny 34x10.5s before. I liked how the skinnier tires dug rock/mud/etc. so this is definitely a change for me.
Factory gearing blows right now on account of the loaded weight and 34s. Nitro gears are coming up pretty quick on my to-do list, I just haven't figured out if I want to go with full assembled and warrantied 3rds from ECGS or do them myself.
omaguz
New member
New kicks. 34's and SCS F5s :biggrin1:
Just one pic???:nono::der: Rig is looking TITS!!!
MTN4RNR
New member
Sorry you're not liking the adjustable Kings... I can take them off your hands, you know, to help a friend...
