Well my rear hatch window shattered from the defroster
- Thread starter Topher88
- Start date
AuSeeker
Elite Member
I discovered that I have a broken "element" wire on my 2004 by seeing that when I turned on the defroster that it wasn't defrosting/clearing along one of the wires, didn't think it was to much of a problem since after several minutes the windows heated up enough to clear the entire window.
Glad I just happen to see this topic, I won't be using the defroster any more so I don't risk losing the window!
OP and others sorry for your misfortune but thanks for posting, ya'll most likely save others the cost of their rear window, I know you have saved me the cost, THANK YOU!!
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jbtvt
New member
It's an easy fix, any auto parts store should have the repair compound. FSM recommends voltage check not continuity. It's a resistor. Read last post on previous page.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Thanks, I will find the broken section and repair it but I'm still hesitant to use the defroster after reading this topic!
BlackWorksInc
New member
We sure that the issue is uneven heating due to damaged lines? I was more curious about why some of the connectors look very burnt.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
I was thinking the same, there has to be a overload to burn the connectors, so the real question is what caused the overload???
This question is why I'm still going to refrain from using the defroster even after fixing the broken line, except maybe for just a very short time to start clearing the window then turn it off.
adkfinn
Member
Completely agree, the pics of some of the connectors look very melted, which tells you, in those cases, it wasn't likely that a defroster strip related glass temperature variance that caused the failure.
My guess is that the connector corrodes due to moisture, creates a short, arcs at the plug which causes a lot of heat quickly and boom, broken back window.
I cleaned, inspected, and re-greased the connection on mine while I was replacing the rubber on the hatch button. It is easy to access and cheap insurance imo. I would also think that replacing the rear window seals as necessary to keep moisture out of the tailgate would help also. Too many car owners seem to overlook those as simple and cheap maintenance items. :bigok:
jbtvt
New member
If it was corroded there would be more resistance = lower voltage to wires so less heat at window. Arc would be shorted to ground before circuit so much less or no current to wires/ heat. Those plugs look pretty standard for older plastic connectors that carry current regularly, don't think that's the issue.
adkfinn
Member
I was referring to the pics like the ones seen in this thread (melted plugs and burned connections): http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/73590-rear-windshield-shattered-morning-4.html
that is not standard.
Not to say the other issue isn't legit, but we have definitely seen melted/shorted/burned/arc'ed plugs and connections as well.
JustinB
New member
I was curious on this too. My previous SUV had a line that was scratched off causing all but 1 element to heat/clear the window (so it was also wired in parallel). Never had an issue other than when it's heating cycle would time out and shut off, I'd turn it back on again to help clear the dead zone of frost around the one broken line.
Given, that window never rolled down and only opened upward, so minuscule scratches from a dirty window going up and down never played a role (if they do at all here).
In any case, I think it has more to do with the glass or those connectors, rather than the lines being wired in parallel.
nevada
Senior Member
i think about threads every morning when I turn on the defroster.
I think it must be an issue with the glass itself. perhaps not tempered correctly. something.
the lines don't get very hot, certainly not hot enough to pop the glass apart. can you even feel them with your hands?
I think it must be an issue with the glass itself. perhaps not tempered correctly. something.
the lines don't get very hot, certainly not hot enough to pop the glass apart. can you even feel them with your hands?
jbtvt
New member
Gotcha, hadn't seen that thread. Makes sense that if it was arcing right on the window like that the localized heat there would shatter it. Good call.
BlackWorksInc
New member
Not sure about corrosion, but high resistance will lower voltage and increase current (which when the result of resistance will create heat).
That's the second picture of connectors I have seen regarding blown rear glass and that burn mark where the metal is peeling off the glass is odd. It doesn't look corroded, but that's probably where a heat spike occurred and most likely caused it to shatter?
jbtvt
New member
Yea, I was speaking in terms of heat at the wires in the window, but if it's arcing right on the glass at the connector the wire heat doesn't matter. Wonder if it's shorting from water? Never heard of this happening on the GX470s. Makes me miss that operable rear window a little less. Prevention could be as simple as slathering everything in dielectric grease if that was the case.
sprocketus
New member
Haven't had a problem with mine as yet, since I only use it when it is pretty iced up. One thing that comes to mind to check (I will do so today) is to make sure that the correct fuse is being used. If the circuit is overloaded for any reason, I think the fuse should pop to protect it. Just some thoughts. Thanks for the heads up, sorry that this has happened to some of you.
*Kevin C.
New member
Mine just did the same last night after using the defrost. I left my truck went into the store and came out a little while later and was like "what happened to the window?"
Luckily I have a tint so the glass didn't fall, it's just held by the adhesive from the tint lol
Called my insurance and told them "idk how it happened" insurance to cover I just pay $50 deductible.
From the outside view you can't really tell, it just looks really dirty (which it probably is lol)
But then the one from the inside you can see it
06 T4R SE V8 4WD SM
Luckily I have a tint so the glass didn't fall, it's just held by the adhesive from the tint lol
Called my insurance and told them "idk how it happened" insurance to cover I just pay $50 deductible.
From the outside view you can't really tell, it just looks really dirty (which it probably is lol)
But then the one from the inside you can see it
06 T4R SE V8 4WD SM
Montego Murph
Member
I just saw this on facebook... apparently Toyota is offering an extended warranty on this issue. I attached the minimal amount of information I was able to get. (shared with permission of the original poster.)
I haven't gotten a notice yet, has anyone else?
From the little I can read, it looks like if you had this issue, you'll be refunded for the repair, but only if you had the work done at a Toyota dealer. Can't say that for 100% certain though.
I haven't gotten a notice yet, has anyone else?
From the little I can read, it looks like if you had this issue, you'll be refunded for the repair, but only if you had the work done at a Toyota dealer. Can't say that for 100% certain though.
