Went to best buy and they didn't have the 150hz so I opted for the 300hz, 4ohm bass blocker. Installed on the positive side of both of the connection harness on each speaker. I soldered the wires together and taped up the connections. Everything sounds great with no popping noises. I just want to thank everyone on this thread for all your advice and knowledge. Maybe you should try adding bass blockers jake. I think I was having the same problem as you.
what an unbelievable difference! - kappa 3.5 dash speakers
- Thread starter mag10
- Start date
Went to best buy and they didn't have the 150hz so I opted for the 300hz, 4ohm bass blocker. Installed on the positive side of both of the connection harness on each speaker. I soldered the wires together and taped up the connections. Everything sounds great with no popping noises. I just want to thank everyone on this thread for all your advice and knowledge. Maybe you should try adding bass blockers jake. I think I was having the same problem as you.
limamike
New member
I didn't install the bass blockers and the speakers are fine for me. I've isolated them independently on numerous music types, and they recreate everything they're "supposed to" just fine. Do a quick Google search on bass blockers for Infinity Kappa speakers and you'll see there is some serious speculation about the utility of adding bass blockers at all, let alone to these particular speakers. Just my .02.
rickwol
New member
There are some folks that have not experienced this problem (good for them)but probably more have experienced the popping then have not, especially if their taste in music tends to be on the "loud" end of the spectrum. The poster had a problem with "popping" as have others that have installed these speakers so I would have to say that puts to rest any serious speculation about it's utility. Simply do a search here in this forum to read testimonials of other satisfied bass blocker customers.
Bass Blockers
Hey all,
Well, I ended up installing bass blockers. I originally didn't think I would need them but after driving around for a week with the kappas I realized I would have to install them. Went to best buy bought some 200 hz blockers, installed them and now all is well.. no popping or anything else even at volume levels above 45 with heavy bass songs..
My next project will be door speakers , rear hatch speakers and an amp.
I will post how things turn out....
Hey all,
Well, I ended up installing bass blockers. I originally didn't think I would need them but after driving around for a week with the kappas I realized I would have to install them. Went to best buy bought some 200 hz blockers, installed them and now all is well.. no popping or anything else even at volume levels above 45 with heavy bass songs..
My next project will be door speakers , rear hatch speakers and an amp.
I will post how things turn out....
emsmatt
New member
So Im finally getting around to doing this mod. Ive read the entire post a few times, bought the speakers and Bass Blockers and are just about ready to go. Since I am a wiring idiot I wanted to confirm this before I got started, and stuck. The 2 negatives get tied together to form 1 negative and then directly to that dangley thing on the speaker, the 2 positives get tied together to form 1 positive then to the Bass Blocker, then the 1 blue wire from the other side of the Bass Blocker goes to the positive on the dangley thing off the speaker. Is that correct?
4Funnr
New member
I'm glad you asked this question because I'm in the same boat and would like to know too.
iDRiVaT4R
New member
Correct!! :thumb3:
snow&surf
New member
I have the JBL system and do not need the bass blockers.
Ryan_S
New member
I have the NON JBL system and do not need the bass blockers.
jake halligan
New member
i've since added the blockers from BB.
100% improvement.
now just need to tweak EQ
100% improvement.
now just need to tweak EQ
BmoreRunner
New member
I just got done installing some kappas in my dash...sound great! I have always swapped out the stock speakers in my past vehicles and after reading this thread I went with the infinity speakers for my 2011 Runner. Big thanks goes out to reklov for the 2" x 1/2" mending bar idea! This made it possible to install the speakers without cutting anything. I used (2) on the passenger side and (1) on the driver's side. I recommend getting a dash removal tool to pop the speaker grills if you are worried about snapping any tabs with a screwdriver. I did and it was only $5 from amazon. The grills popped right with a gentle push.
luv2sleep
New member
I've read this forum, ordered my speakers, and completed the install last night. I thought I'd like to share my results with a crossover as wel as my method of completing this install without damaging the factory wire harness.
1st - DO NOT USE A CROSSOVER!
The Infinity Kappas already come with a built in crossover (that's why there is a big black box hanging from the speaker). The Kappa's crossover filters out only the frequencies that the speaker's can't handle. If you install a 600HZ crossover, then you'll be filtering out some mid range sounds that the speakers handle wonderfully.
2nd -THERE IS NO REASON TO CHOP THE FACTORY WIRES.
Here's a step by step guide on re-using the connector attached to the OEM speaker.
2.1
Remove the plastic speaker grill on the dash. Use a hard piece of plastic or a small flat head screw driver to pry up the front end of the panel.
TIP - if you're using a screw driver, put a piece of electrical tape over the flathead to prevent scratching.
2.2
Remove the factory speaker using a 10mm socket wrench or a short philip's head screwdriver.
2.3
Disconnect the speaker from the factory speaker connector.
2.4
Pry off the speakers wire harness and clip the black and white wires as close as possible to the speaker. This will leave just enough wire to connect to the Kappas.
See that blue thing in the photo? That's what we need to pry off.
2.5
Check it out - the speaker harness has a built-in crossoever (the little black thingy). If you don't believe me about using a crossover, you can leave this on and skip to step 2.8.
2.6
That crossover sucked didn't it? Ok, let's remove it. The crossover is the little black thing.
Using pliers, pull it away from it's connections slowly. If you do it right, you'll be left with the pins intact.
2.7.
Solder the connectors together. I twisted mine together, cut, then used a $4 soldering gun (available at Walmart) to drop a bead onto the twisted connectors. (I also soldered the tips of the stripped wires to give the Kappa's screws a little something extra to grip ).
2.8
Strip the ends of the wires and connect to your Kappas.
TIP - Black wire on harness = Negative. White = Positive.
TIP - Use some electrical tape to secure the harness to the Kappa's crossovers and cover the soldered connections. This will ensure nothing wiggles loose and protect the soldered wires.
2.9
DONE! Just plug the Kappas into the preserved T4R speaker plug and mount. Everything works great, and the only thing destroyed was those cheap OEM speakers.
TIP - Be sure to insulate the speakers from the metal dash (as other's have posted) to prevent the magnet from touching the body otherwise you'll hear popping in the speakers.
TIP - Be sure to fabricate mounting brackets or purchase mending plates to mount securely.
TIP - Be careful removing the black plastic plate on top of the Kappa's. You can tear the rubber surround loose. A better idea is to shave it down using a sander (only for passenger side - driver side fits without mods).
3rd - Verdict
AWESOME SOUND. Much better that the TSH, TSh, TSh the OEM speakers produced. These have full range sound (minus the low end bass) that add an incredible dimension to the flat sound of the stock T4R system.
By the way, I also added 2 DVC 8" 200W RMS bazooka tubes in the back that fit beatifully. I powered the subs with an amp located under the passenger seat. The amp taps into the rear speaker leads of the OEM stereo. This things have big boom for very little $$.
My write up on the AMP + SUB install will be coming shortly. Overall, I've spent $360 bucks, preserved the OEM appearance, and now my wife has amazing sound that blows away the JBL systems at a fraction of the cost.
Excellent write-up!!! I just got done with the speakers. Sounds really good! I don't feel the need for bass blockers, although above 40 w/the bass turned up/songs with good amount of bass, I can hear slight distortion. I'm getting old to turn up the volume that loud anyway:nono:. Thanks for the write-up! BTW, can you post instructions and pictures of your sub+amp installation?
Turn_down
New member
I used a plastic tire iron that's made for bicycle tires. Available at any bike shop. Worked great!
I have noticed that on some songs the highs, especially when they sing an "S" or at "TH" sound, it sounds way distorted for a split second. I can't tell if it's the Kappas or the stock door speakers, but it's getting on my nerves.
Kraeken
New member
I installed these speakers the other night. What an obvious difference! Thanks to everyone here for the awesome ideas and instruction!
I was going to install the speakers using the factory harness, but I didn't feel like soldering so I cut the harness off, twisted the proper wires together and screwed them down into the crossovers.
I cut up the brackets from the stock speakers and used them instead of mending plates. I also took off that plastic hood thing that surrounds the speaker, and sanded down the circular thing on the underside of the grille cover, just so nothing would touch. I also used some of the foam the speakers were packed into insulate the magnets.
The driver's side was no problem, plug 'n play. On the passenger side I had to muscle the speaker in a little and pay more attention to centering it in the grille.
Here's a cell phone pic of the driver's side-
I was going to install the speakers using the factory harness, but I didn't feel like soldering so I cut the harness off, twisted the proper wires together and screwed them down into the crossovers.
I cut up the brackets from the stock speakers and used them instead of mending plates. I also took off that plastic hood thing that surrounds the speaker, and sanded down the circular thing on the underside of the grille cover, just so nothing would touch. I also used some of the foam the speakers were packed into insulate the magnets.
The driver's side was no problem, plug 'n play. On the passenger side I had to muscle the speaker in a little and pay more attention to centering it in the grille.
Here's a cell phone pic of the driver's side-
2011 SR5, non-Nav, non-JBL
I just finished my Infinity Kappa 329cf speaker install. Definitely a huge improvement over the factory speakers.
I used DarkDane's wiring method to avoid cutting the factory wiring, but I added 600 Hz high-pass filters (a.k.a. bass blockers) from Crutchfield. (By the way, the label on the filter says the cut-off is 600 Hz for 4-ohm speakers and 300 Hz for 8-ohm speakers.)
As for fitting the speakers into the recess, I ended up using one mending plate on the driver side:
...and two mending plates on the passenger side:
The passenger side was a really tight fit. I had to shave down the underside of the speaker cover with a Dremel to make it snap in.
I just finished my Infinity Kappa 329cf speaker install. Definitely a huge improvement over the factory speakers.
I used DarkDane's wiring method to avoid cutting the factory wiring, but I added 600 Hz high-pass filters (a.k.a. bass blockers) from Crutchfield. (By the way, the label on the filter says the cut-off is 600 Hz for 4-ohm speakers and 300 Hz for 8-ohm speakers.)
As for fitting the speakers into the recess, I ended up using one mending plate on the driver side:
...and two mending plates on the passenger side:
The passenger side was a really tight fit. I had to shave down the underside of the speaker cover with a Dremel to make it snap in.
Ordered mine yesterday. I think I am going with the factory bracket mod. Would just throw them out anyway. No need to hold onto $10 speakers when it won't be worth removing $57 speakers if I ever sell.
Electrical Engineering Lecture Time!
Regarding the crossovers: First off you have to realize that crossovers do not completely block frequencies below their rating, they just roll them off like a slope. Google it in images if you need to see what I mean graphically. Second, the EQ function on any audio system provides boosting to the selected frequency ranges. Understanding these facts we can talk about crossovers on the speakers.
The party Mode EQ gives a tremendous bass and high frequency boost (at least 10dB). We are only concerned about the bass boosting right now.
A first order crossover has a 3dB/decade roll off. This means that a 600Hz crossover allows half the amplifiers delivered power to pass to the speaker at 600Hz, 25% of the power at 60Hz and 12.5% of the power at 6Hz. The rest of the power is passed to reference/ground through the capacitor or inductor (assuming passive crossovers).
Party Mode can and will effectively defeat the crossover at the 3dB down crossover rating and even below.
Example: Say you have a flat 6dB Boost from the EQ from 60Hz to 600Hz and a first order crossover rated at 600Hz. The 600Hz crossover would only attenuate a 6dB boost at 60Hz back to "normal" and, at 600Hz, would still allow for a boost of 3dB. So, as for adding additional bass blockers, it doubles the crossover drop off to compensate for the boost. Get it?
Electrical Engineering Lecture Time!
Regarding the crossovers: First off you have to realize that crossovers do not completely block frequencies below their rating, they just roll them off like a slope. Google it in images if you need to see what I mean graphically. Second, the EQ function on any audio system provides boosting to the selected frequency ranges. Understanding these facts we can talk about crossovers on the speakers.
The party Mode EQ gives a tremendous bass and high frequency boost (at least 10dB). We are only concerned about the bass boosting right now.
A first order crossover has a 3dB/decade roll off. This means that a 600Hz crossover allows half the amplifiers delivered power to pass to the speaker at 600Hz, 25% of the power at 60Hz and 12.5% of the power at 6Hz. The rest of the power is passed to reference/ground through the capacitor or inductor (assuming passive crossovers).
Party Mode can and will effectively defeat the crossover at the 3dB down crossover rating and even below.
Example: Say you have a flat 6dB Boost from the EQ from 60Hz to 600Hz and a first order crossover rated at 600Hz. The 600Hz crossover would only attenuate a 6dB boost at 60Hz back to "normal" and, at 600Hz, would still allow for a boost of 3dB. So, as for adding additional bass blockers, it doubles the crossover drop off to compensate for the boost. Get it?
