what an unbelievable difference! - kappa 3.5 dash speakers

mag10

New member
To start - I am just another random t4r enthusiast, not someone trying to push a specific product. I searched the forum but didn't find a dedicated post on this topic.

RE: 2010 & 2011 SR5 w/ convinience package and base head unit. For anyone questioning, the 10 & 11 dash speaker set up is identical.

...To say I'm blown away by the difference in speaker/sound quality is a huge understatement.

I just got done installing a set of Infinity Kappa 32.9cf 3-1/2" 2-way Car Speakers (reference, harper7 mod) in my dash. I purchased them online for 99 bucks and got them quick. The install went very well and was for the most part pretty simple once a few tweaks had to be made, which I will refer to in a sec.

After not doing anything "car-audio" for several years I was hesitant to break into plastic and start cutting factory wiring, but I just couldn't handle the oem speakers any longer. Call me a sound snob if you will, as the front speakers are just fine and do sound good for a factory off the lot system, but I just like to crank it a little louder than normal sometimes. PARTY MODE "ON!" I would love to redo the entire system, but the cost isn't something I can justify when I have a few more things left to do on my runner and afterall I like the clean look of the oem unit and wheel controls. I like the party mode as well so keeping the head unit and upgrading the speakers only in my mind was going to be hit or miss. I figured I'd not hear all that much difference, but I was wrong.

For anyone considering doing the install themselves - just know you will have to fab, out of some type of sturdy material, a couple of tabs to facilitate in mounting the speakers in place. I used a piece of plastic and formed it w/ a dremel. You will figure out pretty quick what you're looking at having to do the moment you get the speakers out and test fit the new ones. To get to the speakers by the way I used a small flat head and firmly popped up the plastic grill over each speaker. The clips are strong, but finesse is always a good touch. The grill itself has 3 tabs on the windshield edge designed to fit into slots in the actual dash. This helps hold the windshield edge in place as there is no practical way to pop clips up at that angle. The grill pulls out in one motion, no need to bend things as the plastic can break. (this guy learned the hardway) The tab I made for the driver side is 2 x .75" The tab for the passenger side is essentially the same but a little more narrow and shorter. I used this tab on the right side speaker mounting bracket when doing both speakers. At the speaker hole/bracket I drilled, using a standard sheet metal screw, through the speaker bracket hole into the tab. This is mainly to keep the speaker in place, and supported. The other end of the tab has a drilled out hole that you will screw through the Kappa mounting plate/hole into the factory screw hole. This might not be the best description, but it's pretty self explanatory when you see it all.

Oh yea, the wiring! This part threw me off a bit, as there are 4 wires that are connected to the factory speaker.

* The light green and pink wire are negative on both sides.

* The other two colors:
left side = violet + blue = positive
right side = yellow + blue = positive.

After snipping the factory wires you will expose wire and tie each the positive and the negatives together; left side = light green + pink tied together for one negative wire - violet + blue tied together for one positive wire (you get the idea for the right side) - both wires plugged into speaker. This connection at the Kapa is essentially a pass through, as I believe the deck powers through the dash then to the door speaker. I believe this is a component system, just not one setup like any I've seen. When fitting the speaker you will need to tuck the main wire connecting block up under the dash plastic lining (just under the mounting hole lip) and will also want to use a good bit of the foam provided to dampen metal to metal contact. I used a lot at the screw points. The right side was a little more difficult as the right factory speaker is so much smaller than the Kappa that when fitting the Kappa you have to cut a good bit of the dash plastic lining out. The dash on the right side, mainly due to less space due to the glove box, was molded around the speaker. Good news though, the dash plastic lininh is very thin and able to be trimmed. I used a utility/exacto knife to do this and it wasn't all that bad. It's a very awkward angle and it's your left hand doing the cutting so it's best to get all exposed wires out of the way and/or protected should the blade slip. I trimmed out a 1.5x2" area, which is on the south east corner of the speaker when fitting it. You will have the speaker seated so the main speaker wire feed into the speaker is on the right side of the speaker and taunt. When done the speaker will fit and mount very snuggly, especially if you used a good bit of foam around the speaker chassis, which I suggest doing.

Remember, when putting the grills back on that there are 3 tabs that fit up under the windshield side of the grill. Align those w/ the inserts and gentle press down to seat the tabs and then press firmly around the grill counterclockwise @ 11 until the clips are in tight and the grill sits flush on the dash.

I need to emphasize that this is a simple upgrade that I did mainly to upgrade the front sound and get some good highs and mids out of the dash. The angle of the windshield is upright enough that the sound hits the driver right at ear level and needs to be clean other wise the clarity just isn't what it should be imo.

This upgrade is by no means a pro audio sound setup, but I think it's phenominal w/ the stock deck, and I highly recommend this to any one looking to spend a couple of hrs in the garage tinkering.

I've been around audio for a long time and can honestly say I've never heard, with such little work being done, such an amazing difference and quality sound from one speaker to another.

The Infinity Kappa in my SR5 = good stuff. :bravo:

I'm going to read up on the total power this deck puts out so I can pick out a good door speaker. I know others on the board have shared detail about that, which I will be skimming through. I will update this thread if I do install something in the doors. For now, I'm VERY HAPPY w/ the sound especially given that it's the stock deck.

I Hope this write up helps anyone looking to do a speaker mod. I know there are probably speakers that you can drop in w/out modding to the dash, so only reference this write-up as an option.

I do have a few pictures, but quality isn't the best and the area of focus throug the windshield is so small that it's difficult to see.

-b
 
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This is a great post. I can't stand the sound quality in my rig when the "party mode" is off, and when the PM is on, the bass is a bit too much.

Some photos would be great, if you have the time...

Thanks for sharing this information.
 
I said this a long time ago. I put in a full range of JL Audio's and was / am very pleased with the sound. I did try to put the Kappa 3.5" in the front a week after the initial install, but they couldn't get them to fit, too deep they said.

I think the 2 OHM's the Kappa's pull (I should say resist) allow for a more balanced field front to back. I have my field set up to one click forward to improve the field up front to compensate with the JL Audio's. I would like a little more crisp highs up front too, something the Kappa's are know for.

If you guys can do it, why the hell can't they do it on mine.... I'm going back.
 
pls excuse typos

Passenger side speaker hole pics/trim notes:
passenger_side_speaker_mounting_hole_-_cut_trim_detail_v2.jpg


Passenger side speaker mounted w/ fab'd tab:
passenger_side_speaker_view_with_notes.jpg


^ Close up view of passenger side speaker mounted w/ fab'd tab:
passenger_side_speaker_mount.jpg
 
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I don't get it. Why would you have to cut and splice two wires together to make a single positive and a single negative?

Did the factory speakers have 4 input pins?
 
Dash Speaker Wire

Oh yea, the wiring! This part threw me off a bit, as there are 4 wires that are connected to the factory speaker.

This connection at the Kapa is essentially a pass through, as I believe the deck powers through the dash then to the door speaker. I believe this is a component system, just not one setup like any I've seen.


Nice Post Mag10
 
Just did the same mod and is great. I didn't have material to fab new tab so I only connected one screw on each speaker till I get time to fab a tab. Took only 15 minutes to do both speakers. Also I didn't cut out any part on the passenger side as the ducting to the vent was what seemed to be in the way. I just wiggled speaker into place and screwed in and it fit fine. Also mine is 2011 so don't know if it has slightly different ducting etc under the dash. Thanks for the idea and write up Mag 10
 
from experience....

To all that have the base SR5 sound system (Non JBL), I only recommend replacing the front dash speakers and not the "DOOR" speakers.

Why you might ask...

I should have already known this, but I learn the hard $$$ way!

Toyota has really tuned the system in well using the cheap OEM speakers that honestly sound pretty damn good for what they are and how they are powered.

When I replaced my dash speakers I was so impressed w/ the sound that I moved on to the doors, which required some "modding" to get new speakers in which I chose 6x9 2ways. I say modding, as I jumped in head first didn't think things through and cut things that shouldn't have been cut, including original speaker wires and speaker baskets - yes a TRUE rookie mistake. I've since cleaned everything up and will be able to add back to stock setup in the event that I need to. Once installed these new 6x9's sounded crisp but no bass was to be found, anywhere! :wtf: I was extremely disappointed!

Long story short, I removed the Kappas and installed JL C2-650 components (6.5" in the door speaker locations + separate tweeters in factory dash mounting holes, tied together w/ a crossover that fits up in the dash as well - very tight fit I might add) up front and JL C2-650 (6.5") coax in the back along w/ a sub (right now it's an old cerwin vega 12" - but will most likely be replaced by a CP108LG-W3v3 (8" JL sub in matched box) The 6.5's did require a mounting bracket to fit the 6x9 door holes, which I made out of 1/8 MDF.

While I had panels, seats, and carpet pulled back I deadened the doors and part of the floor panels, which made a "HUGE!" difference.

All in all I couldn't be happier w/ the sound the stealthness of the factory deck being in and no losing the factory look, BUT wouldn't do it all again right now if I knew then what I know now... I've spent a good 40+hrs on this over the past 2wks. Hrs that came very late/early hrs of the night, and more $ than I had planned on spending on "stereo upgrades".

Moral of the story - Upgrading the dash speakers did make a great improvement but that's where I should have stopped!

I've learned more about the stock SR5 stereo than I ever planned to, especially in such short time. PM w/ any questions you might have. I'm happy to help.

:beer:
 
So you ended up swapping out the Kappas in the dash for JL components? Did you get an amp to power your set up? I just did the kappas in the dash and was thinking of going all out and replacing the front 6x9 and rear doors and hatch with 6.5 coaxials, all JL c2's powered by a JL 700/5xd and running a prefabbed JL 10 sealed box in the trunk. Let me know if you did in fact run an amp or are just using the power from the stock head unit. Also, if you did an amp, did you get a line output convertor? Thanks
 
What kind of sound deadening did you use and how much sq/ft did you purchase. I'm pretty comfortable with taking all the panels off and was looking at sound proofing the next time I do it. Thanks in advance!
 
do the JL audio 3.5s fit right into the dash?
They fit with a little trimming , making a little tab and splicing wires . No speakers are going to be a direct replacement as the oem speakers are custom(wierd) sized.
I have set of the 3.5's that are JL Audio C2-350x ,that I had in mine for a week, selling for cheap if your interested.
 
So you ended up swapping out the Kappas in the dash for JL components? Did you get an amp to power your set up? I just did the kappas in the dash and was thinking of going all out and replacing the front 6x9 and rear doors and hatch with 6.5 coaxials, all JL c2's powered by a JL 700/5xd and running a prefabbed JL 10 sealed box in the trunk. Let me know if you did in fact run an amp or are just using the power from the stock head unit. Also, if you did an amp, did you get a line output convertor? Thanks

Yes, I have everything powered now w/ a 600watt 6 channel amp. The front speakers, component in this case, and the rears are powered on channel 1-4 while 5 & 6 are dedicated to the sub.

What kind of sound deadening did you use and how much sq/ft did you purchase. I'm pretty comfortable with taking all the panels off and was looking at sound proofing the next time I do it. Thanks in advance!

Dynamat - approx 2 door kits worth between the hatch and front doors. My rear hatch has lost it's "spring" when opening it up due to the weight of the deadener so keep that in mind when adding to doors and the hatch, as deadner can get heavy quick. I love the new weight and feel of the front doors. They reall sound solid upon shutting.

I credit Harper7 for this idea, and I know his writeup and details shared will help anyone looking to do this. I'm sure his application looks much more pro than mine.

on a scale of one two ten, how hard is this MOD?

1 if you have it installed by a shop :D I chose to do mine not only to save money but to know what work was being done as I'm very meticulous about clean installs and the job being done well. I've been installing this stuff for years, but by no means consider myself an "installer" and had to read up a lot on some of the stuff out there. If you're not comfortable popping off door panels and removing the head unit, it's best to have it done for you. As far as the install of the speakers, they require time, some tools, and creativitly - with a little luck. I personally would rate this a 6 or 7, but w/ the disclaimer that the job will for sure take many hrs. Make sure to read up on how to best remove/replace factory speakers! I did a half a$$ job and cut up my stuff which I regret. There are ways around having to cut any speaker terminal/plug the factory has in place that ultimately looks much better. Google Posi-Tap as an example of how to tap into factory wire w/out having to splice or cut.


They fit with a little trimming , making a little tab and splicing wires . No speakers are going to be a direct replacement as the oem speakers are custom(wierd) sized.
I have set of the 3.5's that are JL Audio C2-350x ,that I had in mine for a week, selling for cheap if your interested.

Harper, how much do you want for the 3.5's?

You said you liked the Kappas much better than those right?
 
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Harper, how much do you want for the 3.5's?

You said you liked the Kappas much better than those right?

$40 shipped to USA will work.

I like the Kappa's better, yes and had the C2-350x's in for a week. The C2-350x's are not as efficient as the Kappas and would probably sound better with an aftermarket amp. So your Kappa's are blown?

Probably just need to list them on Ebay as they are still in the box like brand new.
 
^ Correct

It wasn't clear exactly how it was all wired up until I got behind the dash. I've never seen a factory install wired like this, which I believe is a parallel, but similar to a component given the factory door speaker 6x9 seemed to only plays lows and the dash played the highs.
 

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