What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!

pic of the Inbred? that was my first bike. got it used off of someone in California...one of the original 853 frames. it was the one Dirt Rag used in their review. Never should've sold it.

This is it when it was first built--this is the second Inbred I've owned. The purple has gone through a lot of iterations--that's an 8 spd Alfine internally geared hub, then SS, then rigid, then suspended again, then a quasi-commuter, back to SS...etc.

The first was white and it cracked on both sides of the seat stay/seat tube junction. It's still hanging in the basement! Not sure if that one was 853 or DN6. It was the KoolAid for switching to 29er.

<a href="https://donnabrett.smugmug.com/Bikes/On-One-Inbred-the-Second/i-DT2hCg8/A"><img src="https://donnabrett.smugmug.com/Bikes/On-One-Inbred-the-Second/i-DT2hCg8/0/L/P1010029-L.jpg" alt=""></a>
 
Thanks R4L,

My 4R will do about 3k/yr on average because I have access to more than one vehicle. I kinda like that it still has very low mileage/wear-n-tear because it helps to maintain it's resale value. Every mod that's been done to it is completely reversible so if/when I decide to sell it, the buyer will have the option to keep or remove the added equipment e.g., DC-Powers alternator, PIAA auxiliary fog-lights, 'Alpine Sub-woofer system'...etc. I'm not sure just what the 2012 Limited's are selling for these days, but out of all the L.E's for sale in my (50 to 75 mile radius) area, I'm guessing that this truck will be among the ones with the lowest mileage!

Rgds!

Wow. I have 65K on my 5th gen only because I have access to two other vehicles.
 
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Took a minute to enjoy the TX sunrise.
 
Are you totally out of warranty? Seems like Toyota should address the issue to me.


Yep. Rolled 60K last Sunday. Oil changed at dealership was Saturday but they don't have to pull that skid to change the oil so they didn't see it. I only saw it because I dropped the skid to put the front sway bar back on.

Toyota uses red RTV for the seal. It's not hard to reseal it. But it is a giant pain in the ass to drop the front diff. Definitely an all day type of project.

I plan to regear and lock fairly soon so I can just keep an eye on it until then. I don't really want to pull the diff to reseal it only to have to pull it again within a few months.
 
This is it when it was first built--this is the second Inbred I've owned. The purple has gone through a lot of iterations--that's an 8 spd Alfine internally geared hub, then SS, then rigid, then suspended again, then a quasi-commuter, back to SS...etc.

The first was white and it cracked on both sides of the seat stay/seat tube junction. It's still hanging in the basement! Not sure if that one was 853 or DN6. It was the KoolAid for switching to 29er.
That's awesome. Middleburns and all. Wish I could find a picture of mine before selling it. Red Phil Wood hubs with Mavic 819s, Middleburns, Thomson cockpit. Had the original Planet X saddle that was black with glitter. such a fun bike.
 
We spotted a baby [MENTION=124732]LawnDart[/MENTION] in the wild today

image_zpsujjdih30.jpeg~original


This is actually the rig that sold me on the 4Runner before I bought mind. Damn near drove off the road staring at it...

My truck is hiding somewhere in San Jose till I get back.
 
Thanks R4L,

My 4R will do about 3k/yr on average because I have access to more than one vehicle. I kinda like that it still has very low mileage/wear-n-tear because it helps to maintain it's resale value. Every mod that's been done to it is completely reversible so if/when I decide to sell it, the buyer will have the option to keep or remove the added equipment e.g., DC-Powers alternator, PIAA auxiliary fog-lights, 'Alpine Sub-woofer system'...etc. I'm not sure just what the 2012 Limited's are selling for these days, but out of all the L.E's for sale in my (50 to 75 mile radius) area, I'm guessing that this truck will be among the ones with the lowest mileage!

Even higher mileage than that will still keep resale. I have had offers for my '12 with 58k miles at $30k last summer (had 50k at the time) and probably sell for around $27k next summer when I upgrade to a full size truck (might hit it's 60k service by then). Considering I paid $32.5k and put around $2500 in mods to it, this is not a bad depreciation rate considering how fast most vehicles depreciate. I don't get to drive mine anymore since I'm deployed (and have only been home no more than 3-3.5 months a year the last 2.5 years). My wife takes it out of the garage every other week to drive it around to work and errands to keep things cycling, but last time we're talking it was 800 miles in 5 months, probably a good thing since I was going at a 20-25k miles/year rate in the beginning.

To me, vehicles are meant to be driven, owning something as utilitarian and practical and fun as a 4Runner and not driving it to keep resale value makes no sense, but everyone has their reasons for their driving habits. It is a Toyota, you'll be able to drive it for a very, very long time with minimal maintenance even with higher mileage. Too each their own.
 
What storage unit are you using on your rack?

It's a Thule Atlantis 1600. I posted a few pages back about it, the Gobi crossbars are too far apart but that being said, I love it. I ghetto-rigged it to fit and it's totally stable. I've driven it about 700 miles on the highway and it's surprisingly quiet when there is no wind.

Drove into a headwind for about 7 hours straight though and MPG was abysmal, it was like trying to steer a sailboat when the wind gusted. Long story short though, I recommend it if you are considering one.
 
Took pics of some little stuff I did in the last week or so:

The visors are too fat for a garage door opener clip and I was aggravated sticking it other places. No Homelink on this model and no sunglass cubby to modify. Got a 3 door keychain remote, de-logo'd it with brake cleaner, and stick it to a free area on the overhead console.

DSC_0149-XL.jpg


Mag Lite on clips mounted to the front of the driver's seat. I think it was too tight fitting to get a good mount on the side of the seat, as most people do it. SOLAS tape on the bottom of the light (also have strips on my inner door sills).

DSC_0150-XL.jpg


Got my T4R titanium key rings...

DSC_0152-XL.jpg


Finally can make use of the cubbies in the dashboard, I put some tool box drawer liner in the space and adhered it with spray adhesive. Now my Altoids and sunglasses don't fly out whenever I accelerate.

DSC_0146-XL.jpg
 
Got this for an early Christmas gift, now I just have to figure out how to wire it up. Anyone know if I have to use this 40 amp maxi fuse, or can I hook this up to my blue sea fuse block and use a standard 40 amp fuse?

 
Got this for an early Christmas gift, now I just have to figure out how to wire it up. Anyone know if I have to use this 40 amp maxi fuse, or can I hook this up to my blue sea fuse block and use a standard 40 amp fuse?


40A is 40A, you don't have to use the maxi fuse. That said, make sure your fuse block can safely supply 40A. I don't know how OBA is supposed to be wired up but 40A is a lot and probably requires going right to battery, with a switched relay to turn it on and off.
 
40A is 40A, you don't have to use the maxi fuse. That said, make sure your fuse block can safely supply 40A. I don't know how OBA is supposed to be wired up but 40A is a lot and probably requires going right to battery, with a switched relay to turn it on and off.

It comes with a wiring harness that includes a relay and inline 40 amp maxi fuse. It looks like it runs at 25 amps under load, and 32 amps at max load of 100psi. I have seen it run to a fuse block, just haven't seen any long term reviews of it done this way.
 
It comes with a wiring harness that includes a relay and inline 40 amp maxi fuse. It looks like it runs at 25 amps under load, and 32 amps at max load of 100psi. I have seen it run to a fuse block, just haven't seen any long term reviews of it done this way.

Well again, I've never done OBA installs but I almost wonder if the "wiring to fusebox " you've seen before isn't just the low amp trigger (switch) wiring. Someone who has done it can chime in. ... but I think, without looking at the schematic, I'd be inclined to use the fusebox only to supply switched low amperage power to the relay.
 

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