What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!

did both differentials, transfer case and engine oil today...thanks to the multiple threads listing the tools, parts, capacities and torque specs--big help!

both differentials fluid was very similar in color and smell (understand that this is an art, not a science) no evidence of any water at all...both drain plugs with a dime-sized dollop of sludge, doing what they magnet does...based on my experience, fluid looked good, no concerns there at all, but no deep water crossings, and i extended rear breather last summer, so to be expected

transfer case oil honestly looked brand new...if i wasn't already set up and ready to just do them all, i would have just left as is..honestly looked like new oil--clear, honey color...my boys were playing with their friend from across the street and they stopped to sit near the vehicle while i worked this evening, and she remarked that all oil looks black, so they all got a kick out of watching the royal purple move through the clear pump tube when i refilled, and they learned something new!

i have to say that after doing my jeep TJ differentials and using RTV, the Toyota design with the drain plugs is awesome! makes everything so easy, it's really nice (other than the front diff not being accessible to my torque wrench sitting on flat ground, but that was pretty easily remedied by snugging up the fill plug then moving back on the ramps to torque to spec)
 
toured Salton Sea

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Drawers

Started on my drawers, couldn't source the hardware I wanted local so was not able to compete them but all the cuts are made (was at a friends as don't have a table saw anymore). The fridge will sit on a slide thats level with the right side for a flat surface but I had to wait to screw it together till I get the drawer slides. Door faces are cut but not yet mounted.

Over all Well worth the ~4-5hrs of time and It looks like I will have about 300$ into them but thats not looking for deals on anything and buying "fancy" latches, tie downs and either paint or carpet for covering

Used 1/2" for everything but the tops and drawer bottoms which are 3/4".
 

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Added a carrier to my HitchGate for my TRED's .
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My initial plan was to use Yakima SpareTime parts I acquired to mount the TREDs vertically on the spare tire.
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I used some scrap 1/2 inch plywood to make a mount. Sprayed it with bedliner.
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Finished mount.........not so fast
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I drove it around a bit and noticed some wind drag with the TREDs mounted that way. I started looking for a different option. Thought of mounting it horizontally, but was concerned that the TREDs wouldn't be stable off road and move around on the spare time. I then thought of using the HitchGate's Hi-Lift Jack mount (2 holes).

Drilled 2 additional holes in the ROTOPAX gas mount and bolted the plywood mount to the back of the HitchGate.
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Now it's very stable and there is no movement at all. No wind drag either.
(Of course I'll move my license plate when I actually drive it.)
 
Roof Bag

I tried out a Roof Bag. I have a huge Thule that works well on my Sienna, but on the T4R it does not fit--sits on the shark fin and prevents the hatch from opening. I don't want to spend for a different box, so I am trying the 15 cu ft "Cross Country" bag:

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My use case is taking scouts on camping trips, and this will hold the light stuff like sleeping bags, camp chairs, etc. I loaded it with sleeping bags, mats, camp chairs, and some bags of towels to simulate clothes and tested it with the optional anti-skid mat underneath. It did just fine at 80 MPH. I have not had a chance yet to test the company's claim that the bag is "100% waterproof."

Advantages: Cheap. Less wind noise than my Thule, probably because there is no air flow underneath it. A nice, square shape. You can get it with 3 long duffle bags that fit perfectly in it. For scout trips, this is a nice thing because I can give each scout a duffle to use and they can load it easily and then when we get there, I can hand them their duffles. The entire system folds up and stores easily on a standard shelf in the garage. One person can install and load the system.

Disadvantages: Requires removal of the cross bars because the bag does not fit between them (not really a bad thing for me since I don't use the cross bars). Looks kinda sketchy. Not secure if you want to leave it on while in a hotel. Gonna be yucky when it is covered with dead bugs (hopefully a good hosing off after unloading will clean it).

Through all this I've come to the conclusion that the factory roof rack system is not good. It is too far back and thus many boxes will interfere with the shark fin and hatch. And there won't be enough support up front for long boxes or cargo. I suspect lots of cargo boxes will oscillate and bounce on the front part of the roof at highway speed. I can see why so many people on this forum have replaced the factory system.
 

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Finished my led upgrade by finally figuring out how to take the mirror apart. Well, not knowing, but actually having the courage to pull on it to get it apart. I also plasti dipped both bumpers......for the second time this weekend as I did a crap job the first time. I'll wait to do the wheels until after I get new tires. Not sure if I'll do the roof rack since I have a drabbits on order...but that could be a while......
 
Drank a beer in the back while looking out over the Mogollon Rim after a good morning of Mountain Biking.
 

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Installed Southern style off-road slimline bumper with Engo 9000 winch and 25" lightbar.
 

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Hiked up an old access road to see if the Pro would make it. I think it will. Will return with my copilot to spot me over some tricky boulders.
 

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