What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!

When I had my first set, I had the same issue. When I purchased new ones for my TRD grill, I used a fuse spot in the engine bay fuse box. I routed the line into the box and was able to reinstall the cover.

This video explains it. Good luck!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPsEPIQ3ak&t=646s

INJ is the injector fuse. Not smart to use that circuit to add anything at all to. Say your lights fail and short, now you're dead in the water with no injector signal. Say that happens at 70 MPH on the highway, nothing good will come of that. Find another ignition or accessory circuit that's not so detrimental to the function of your vehicle.
 
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Did the new rear bumper already have the holes cut for the black valance? I have a TRD Venture and want the black valance but hesitant to cut up a brand new bumper.

I actually got a killer deal on a color matched TRD OR bumper on Facebook. I painted the silver valance black.
 
INJ is the injector fuse. Not smart to use that circuit to add anything at all to. Say your lights fail and short, now you're dead in the water with no injector signal. Say that happens at 70 MPH on the highway, nothing good will come of that. Find another ignition or accessory circuit that's not so detrimental to the function of your vehicle.

Appreciate the thought as I did not think of that. Any suggestions on a different fuse spot to use?
 
I tried to install the Raptor lights I bought from 4Runner Lifestyle. The problem is the fuse box does not close down because the fuse is so bulky. Is there a solution to this that yall know about?

There are a few places that 3d print fuse box covers with extra height. I'm using this.. works well. Just run it in to your cab box through the firewall and play it safe.

Toyota 4Runner 2010-19 Extended Fuse Cover | Etsy
 
I installed the MESO Customs puddle lights today. They are way brighter than factor. The install isn't too hard either. I'm a little disappointed with the fitment against the rest of the plastics but it's fine, nobody is ever going to look closely at it. I also installed a URD MAF sensor calibrator. I put rivnuts in the firewall behind it rather than putting sheet metal screws through. It's much easier to take off the air pump if you have it to get to the connector, just three nuts and two bolts on a hard line on the passenger side and you can move it to get to the middle cylinder connector. I'll report back in a couple weeks with any perceived results.
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Follow up on the MAF sensor calibrator. I measure my MPG each tank by doing miles traveled / gallons added to tank (I reset the trip A and B each fill-up). Before the calibrator I usually would get about 17.4 with a mix of city/highway. My first tank with the calibrator got 19.2. I'm interested to see what it reads on a road trip where I can pin the cruise control for a few hours, which typically gives me a 1-2 MPG bump per tank. I know these results are anecdotal but doesn't hurt to add one more person's data point.

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Appreciate the thought as I did not think of that. Any suggestions on a different fuse spot to use?

Personally I would avoid the fuse box all together. There is no reason to run wiring back that far. You have parking lights in your headlights nice and close. Tap into the harness for the parking lights, solder, heat shrink, circuit is already fused. Wiring is right there and keep it all nice and clean.
 
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raptor lights

Personally I would avoid the fuse box all together. There is no reason to run wiring back that far. You have parking lights in your headlights nice and close. Tap into the harness for the parking lights, solder, heat shrink, circuit is already fused. Wiring is right there and keep it all nice and clean.

x2. i run hid low beams, so i tapped into that wiring harness.
 
Personally I would avoid the fuse box all together. There is no reason to run wiring back that far. You have parking lights in your headlights nice and close. Tap into the harness for the parking lights, solder, heat shrink, circuit is already fused. Wiring is right there and keep it all nice and clean.

I don't see a disadvantage to running a wire a couple of feet longer. I see a huge disadvantage with cutting and splicing factory wiring, especially if you're using those rinky-dink colored butt splice connectors or vampire taps. It adds failure points (moisture, vibration, etc.) and you'll have to replace the harness if you decide to return to stock.

Fuse taps are completely reversible if you decide to remove silly accessories later. I used one on my OUTLET fuse under the dash to a bus that is switched to all of my relays. This way I can power my accessories anytime the key is in. If anything smokes the fuse (unlikely as I'm only pulling a few milliamps to trigger relays and it's independently fused anyway) I'll just temporarily lose USB port charging.
 
Well - not all today, but the last few days...

  • Swapped in TRD Pro Bronze wheels on the OE tires (lift and larger tires can wait a bit)
  • Spidertrax Spacers (fender liner adjustment and lower bumper trim required)
  • Did the TRD Pro heritage grill swap with OEM parts (raptor lights on order)
  • Blacked out the remaining emblems with OEM overlays

This truck is starting to look the part.

Next up...

  • OEM Audio + speakers (UPS says they will come tomorrow)
  • Overland Depot raptor lights
  • DIY black paint on the front and rear bumper valances (waiting for better weather)
 
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I don't see a disadvantage to running a wire a couple of feet longer. I see a huge disadvantage with cutting and splicing factory wiring, especially if you're using those rinky-dink colored butt splice connectors or vampire taps. It adds failure points (moisture, vibration, etc.) and you'll have to replace the harness if you decide to return to stock.

Fuse taps are completely reversible if you decide to remove silly accessories later. I used one on my OUTLET fuse under the dash to a bus that is switched to all of my relays. This way I can power my accessories anytime the key is in. If anything smokes the fuse (unlikely as I'm only pulling a few milliamps to trigger relays and it's independently fused anyway) I'll just temporarily lose USB port charging.

Solder and heat shrink is the way to go. Plenty easy to reverse if you ever remove whatever you installed. Fuse taps are fine but not on an injector fuse. Find another circuit in there to tap off of if that’s the route you want to take.
 
Installed three goodies over the last few days.
Heavy-duty rear mat: Amazon.com: TOUGHPRO Cargo/Trunk Mat Accessories Compatible with Toyota 4Runner (W/O 3RD Row SEAT & W/O Sliding Tray) - Black Rubber - 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021: Automotive
Canvas back seat backs: Toyota 4Runner 2nd Row Only
Xenondepot high beam / driving light: 14-21 4Runner: High Beam / DRL LED

All three are Kick-Ass products. Now I could be much more carefree with the cargo area and every bulb on the front end of the vehicle is LED! Very happy with these upgrades [emoji51]
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Took 19 weeks, but I finally got my Kings and had a free weekend to install. Disappointed that the UCA's maxed out at 3.4 degrees of caster though. Was hoping to get 4.5, but oh well, at least they look good

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Took 19 weeks, but I finally got my Kings and had a free weekend to install. Disappointed that the UCA's maxed out at 3.4 degrees of caster though. Was hoping to get 4.5, but oh well, at least they look good

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Check your rear cams to see if they are at the outter position on both sides, a lot of alignment shops don’t adjust these and limit caster. I was able to get 5.7 degrees easily with my TC UCA.
 
The Wife is driving the 4runner this week. Road trip to a funeral.
So when I get home it's my pickup, the Jeep (WJ), or her pickup.
She's the only one that likes her pickup.

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Bought our 2021 Off Road Premium a few weeks ago. So far:
*Blind spot mirror from Germany. Requirement for any of our cars.
*Toyota OEM rear cargo all-weather liner
*Toyota OEM rear cargo cover
*Toyota OEM TRD Off Road Premium blacked out emblems
*Glove box and center console organizer (Amazon)
*Trash can-waterproof etc. Spared no expense! ;) (Amazon)
*Removed stupid and gigantic California Prop 65 warning. (Idiots!). Duct tape to help remove residue left behind.
*Removed KARR theft deterrent sticker (sticker from dealership).
*Added a stick up AAA powered light in the rear hatch area for more light (Thanks Ray!). And, thanks to Alien tape for helping it stick!

Next up are tires. Probably go with stock size Falken Wildpeak AT3s. Maybe soon, maybe once the stock ones wear out. May also upgrade to TRD Pro wheels in anthracite/gray that come on the Venture models.

And lastly, we sold our 2000 4Runner. Sad to see it go. It's been a part of our family for 21 years. It's going to a good guy, good home and referral from forum member. Thanks BUDDY!
 

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