Saker
Senior Member
Did you have any issues installing the 9633IX in the doors? CRUTCHFIELD shows them to be just a little too high. Mounting height: 0.551 OEM: 0.535
Did the metra 82-8146 remedy that issue?
Thx
What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!
- Thread starter DEKA3
- Start date
Did you have any issues installing the 9633IX in the doors? CRUTCHFIELD shows them to be just a little too high. Mounting height: 0.551 OEM: 0.535
Did the metra 82-8146 remedy that issue?
Thx
No issues with the 9633IX.........the 6532IX was the one gave me a little trouble.
SnoRnR
New member
Nice photos what camera setup are you using? Are you on instagram?
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jtphoto
New member
Thank you! I use both my Canon and Sony. My IG page is @jagerexpeditions
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utctscanr75
New member
a group of us are heading there in a month for the first time. Can't wait!
utctscanr75
New member
Painted my white (for potable water) rotopax silver to match the truck.
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srsrogerissrs
Member
I'm running Milestar Patagonia M/T in 295/70.
PrettyGoodSam
New member
installed victory 4x4 center console molle panels and a midland mxt275 gmrs radio. really like them both.
kmeeg
New member
Car Sleeping Headrest
Sleeping headrest for my kiddo.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmgtPeKNijg&feature=youtu.be
Sleeping headrest for my kiddo.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmgtPeKNijg&feature=youtu.be
Teamoatmealpie
New member
Laid underneath my rig and scrubbed the frame with scotch-brite pad for an hour. To remove scale and dirt in anticipation of doing this at least 2x more, before sanding any rusty spots before touch up paint. Then ultimately fluid film coating.
Fair amount of mud gets trapped on top of the frame in certain spots. And I avoid mud when possible. Not to mention wheel wells, have to wonder what the engineers were thinking on all the rear mud catching crevices back there.
I think my 16 has more frame paint flaking/rusting then my 03. No question body paint on the 03 is better too.
If I could do it over, I would have fluid filmed from day one. But live and learn.
Fair amount of mud gets trapped on top of the frame in certain spots. And I avoid mud when possible. Not to mention wheel wells, have to wonder what the engineers were thinking on all the rear mud catching crevices back there.
I think my 16 has more frame paint flaking/rusting then my 03. No question body paint on the 03 is better too.
If I could do it over, I would have fluid filmed from day one. But live and learn.
rhadam
New member
That will be me once it warms up to about 70 degrees here in ND. Considerable surface rust on my 17, as well as yellow oxidation spots on the paint (stupid super white crap). I looked in to fluid film, but as of now settled on using the Rustoleum Rust Reformer spray then coat with something else.
Do you have a quote on a fluid film job or are you doing it yourself?
A10MileHusker
New member
Completed my lift. Had my front King CO's for over a year now to level it out.
Finally purchased rear lift. Right now I have Wheeler T13 rear springs and Toytec Aluma Shocks. I'm running these shocks while my King 2.5s are being built (35 weeks out).
I also have the Toytec Superflex's in my garage but trying these Wheeler springs out for now.
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Finally purchased rear lift. Right now I have Wheeler T13 rear springs and Toytec Aluma Shocks. I'm running these shocks while my King 2.5s are being built (35 weeks out).
I also have the Toytec Superflex's in my garage but trying these Wheeler springs out for now.
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Teamoatmealpie
New member
I will price out both, but if DIY then I am going to see if I can find a garage with a lift that rents by the hour to make things easier.
I am no where near where the rig below is, but this is exactly what I want to prevent. Most of my rust is the frame around the track bars, where it gets shot gun blasted by gravel. The video below is actually quite sickening for a 2015.
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rRa63_9fOIo" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Last edited:
Amazon thumb cam lock. They were $9 for a set of 2.
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4RunnerMurse
New member
Got the front bumper all squared away this past week. Still waiting on my front lightbar and trying to figure out which winch I want to go with.
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baldrik78
New member
2021 has been wild y'all. This didn't all happen today or yesterday, but it sure feels like it. How are we already a quarter of the way through this year?
Where to start? So like a month ago western Washington got a ton of snow - like 12-24" in some areas. So of course we went out to play in it. We spent about 4 hours out on the roads, up in the mountains and all over, no trouble what-so-ever. Then, in our own neighborhood, 1 street from our house, we hit an icy spot and slid into a 3ft deep ditch and smacked a concrete culvert. Everyone in the car was alright, thank goodness. Aside from the a clearly cracked bumper cover, I could not see any other damage - no bent tie-rod, no broken CV or axle, knuckle and tire looked fine. So I got back in, drove it right out of the ditch and headed to the house.
Once we got home, I started inspecting the damage. I scuffed the hell out of the front passenger wheel, the Slimline bumper took a dent and lost some powder coat, the front skid and supports were completely mangled, the front bumper cover was cracked from the Slimline bumper all the ay to the fog light pocket (so much for that high clearance "protection" lol) and my alignment was way off.
I got an alignment the next day (caster had been pushed off a whole 1 degree), and started ordering stuff to make my repairs. I took the skid plate off and took an angle grinder to cut off the mangled bits and stuck it back on. A couple weeks later another 4Runner owner gave me his old one (thanks again Kyle!). All of the skid plate bolts and supports had to be replaced. Then I got to work on the bumper cover - pulled it off and dremeled out a channel in the back side along the crack. Then, while holding the crack together with some tape, I layered in some JB plastic weld, some mesh drywall tape and some more JB plastic weld on top. It's not perfect, but you'd never notice the hairline fracture at a glance. We'll see how it holds up to washboards.
I also decided it was time to fill in the empty light bar space on my bumper and set up my accessory fuse box. I ordered up a PowerTray for a Bussman 15303 fuse box and drew up a wiring schematic. I also ordered a light bar off of amazon that sounded too good to be true - (15) 10 Watt Cree LEDs for $62! Turns out it was too good be true - it only pulled 52 Watts. So This morning I ordered a Light bar from Diode Dynamics. Hopefully this one works out a bit better.
Oh, and I replaced the MAF sensor in the wife's Volvo. I have a new found respect for Swedish engineering. I've never known an engineer willing to pin so much on hopes and dreams. There's basically nothing holding that air box in but the wiring harness attached to it lol
Where to start? So like a month ago western Washington got a ton of snow - like 12-24" in some areas. So of course we went out to play in it. We spent about 4 hours out on the roads, up in the mountains and all over, no trouble what-so-ever. Then, in our own neighborhood, 1 street from our house, we hit an icy spot and slid into a 3ft deep ditch and smacked a concrete culvert. Everyone in the car was alright, thank goodness. Aside from the a clearly cracked bumper cover, I could not see any other damage - no bent tie-rod, no broken CV or axle, knuckle and tire looked fine. So I got back in, drove it right out of the ditch and headed to the house.
Once we got home, I started inspecting the damage. I scuffed the hell out of the front passenger wheel, the Slimline bumper took a dent and lost some powder coat, the front skid and supports were completely mangled, the front bumper cover was cracked from the Slimline bumper all the ay to the fog light pocket (so much for that high clearance "protection" lol) and my alignment was way off.
I got an alignment the next day (caster had been pushed off a whole 1 degree), and started ordering stuff to make my repairs. I took the skid plate off and took an angle grinder to cut off the mangled bits and stuck it back on. A couple weeks later another 4Runner owner gave me his old one (thanks again Kyle!). All of the skid plate bolts and supports had to be replaced. Then I got to work on the bumper cover - pulled it off and dremeled out a channel in the back side along the crack. Then, while holding the crack together with some tape, I layered in some JB plastic weld, some mesh drywall tape and some more JB plastic weld on top. It's not perfect, but you'd never notice the hairline fracture at a glance. We'll see how it holds up to washboards.
I also decided it was time to fill in the empty light bar space on my bumper and set up my accessory fuse box. I ordered up a PowerTray for a Bussman 15303 fuse box and drew up a wiring schematic. I also ordered a light bar off of amazon that sounded too good to be true - (15) 10 Watt Cree LEDs for $62! Turns out it was too good be true - it only pulled 52 Watts. So This morning I ordered a Light bar from Diode Dynamics. Hopefully this one works out a bit better.
Oh, and I replaced the MAF sensor in the wife's Volvo. I have a new found respect for Swedish engineering. I've never known an engineer willing to pin so much on hopes and dreams. There's basically nothing holding that air box in but the wiring harness attached to it lol
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