These are on the expensive side, but, they have the isolators and washers which is key. You may want to scour the internet for some less expensive ones. Be sure to get the washers besides the isolators.ROFL
broski, you got a link for those shackles?
Yeah i got isolators but they still bang and still rub the powdercoat off. I put duck tape on the inside of the holes but the banging annoys me more.
I think you should have painted your tie downs and your shackles Kings blue to match. Leave your nipple shackles red.
I bought a set of Method Racing Wheel MR703 17X9 with the -12mm off set and a set of Copper Discoverer S/T Maxx 285R75-17 (34") tires. I knew there would be some work to do for them to fit without rubbing. So I started with the alignment.
I've tried in the past to find an alignment shop that would set the max castor with the lower control arms (LCA) and adjust the camber with the SPC upper control arms (UCA), but they never would never do it. So after watching PhoRunner's YouTube video on how to set the caster I thought I try it.
It wasn't that difficult. The hardest part is breaking loose the cam bolts and then tightening them back down while crawling around on the garage floor. I first put the front end on jack stands and took off the wheels to get access to the UCAs. I then adjusted the LCA cams as PhoRunner suggested to maximize the castor. Next, I tried different positions of the ball joint on the SPC UCA while checking the camber with a level on the brake rotor. I ended up at position C (see SPC instructions). That gave me some adjustability of the camber if needed. I put the wheels back on, took it off the jack stands and tightened everything. I checked the camber at the wheels and it was level so moved on to the toe. It was obvious it needed adjusting. I set it using a stringline and tape measure with the front lip of the rim 1/16" in compared to the rear lip. Locked down the toe and went for a test drive. I was ecstatic how well it tracked and felt.
I started looking at what it was going to take to smash the pinch welds flat and trim the rocker panel cap and decided to wait until I got the new wheels and tires on to see how much I need to cut. I had already got the body mount chop and had it regeared to a 4.56 ratio. So it was off to the tire shop to get the the new tires and wheels installed. To my delight there was no interference at all with the 34" tires! I drove it home with a big grin on my face.
The next day I took it to a local alignment shop to have it checked. The tech put it on the their Hunter alignment machine and showed me the results. He said he couldn't read the caster because the 4runner is more like a truck than a car and the alignment machine was for cars not trucks. Everything was in spec except the toe and it was just a little to far in at .16 degrees so he adjusted it to near .01 degree. See the attached report.
If I only drove it on the street I could probably get by with out the smashing the pinch welds, but I'm still planning doing that and maybe trimming the caps. I might try taking the coil overs off like PhoRunner and check the interference through the the suspension travel to see what really needs to be trimmed.
I bought a set of Method Racing Wheel MR703 17X9 with the -12mm off set and a set of Copper Discoverer S/T Maxx 285R75-17 (34") tires. I knew there would be some work to do for them to fit without rubbing. So I started with the alignment.
I've tried in the past to find an alignment shop that would set the max castor with the lower control arms (LCA) and adjust the camber with the SPC upper control arms (UCA), but they never would never do it. So after watching PhoRunner's YouTube video on how to set the caster I thought I try it.
It wasn't that difficult. The hardest part is breaking loose the cam bolts and then tightening them back down while crawling around on the garage floor. I first put the front end on jack stands and took off the wheels to get access to the UCAs. I then adjusted the LCA cams as PhoRunner suggested to maximize the castor. Next, I tried different positions of the ball joint on the SPC UCA while checking the camber with a level on the brake rotor. I ended up at position C (see SPC instructions). That gave me some adjustability of the camber if needed. I put the wheels back on, took it off the jack stands and tightened everything. I checked the camber at the wheels and it was level so moved on to the toe. It was obvious it needed adjusting. I set it using a stringline and tape measure with the front lip of the rim 1/16" in compared to the rear lip. Locked down the toe and went for a test drive. I was ecstatic how well it tracked and felt.
I started looking at what it was going to take to smash the pinch welds flat and trim the rocker panel cap and decided to wait until I got the new wheels and tires on to see how much I need to cut. I had already got the body mount chop and had it regeared to a 4.56 ratio. So it was off to the tire shop to get the the new tires and wheels installed. To my delight there was no interference at all with the 34" tires! I drove it home with a big grin on my face.
The next day I took it to a local alignment shop to have it checked. The tech put it on the their Hunter alignment machine and showed me the results. He said he couldn't read the caster because the 4runner is more like a truck than a car and the alignment machine was for cars not trucks. Everything was in spec except the toe and it was just a little to far in at .16 degrees so he adjusted it to near .01 degree. See the attached report.
If I only drove it on the street I could probably get by with out the smashing the pinch welds, but I'm still planning doing that and maybe trimming the caps. I might try taking the coil overs off like PhoRunner and check the interference through the the suspension travel to see what really needs to be trimmed.
