What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!

adjust preload on the kangzzzz, cut out some steel to make small spacers for the Duro bumps up front. temp fix until i get a plan for long travel. FWIW 285's do actually rub if you really run your sh1t hard. fender liners are about worn thru from full compression at high speeds lol.




there. thats all you needed to write.



also....does GMRS and old school peasant CB stuff work together or naw?



i have our magnetic antennae on a 1/8" plate bolted to two cross bars on the prinsu rack. range is amazing. i work as a relay when in the middle of a big group stretched out lol. or like normal, i'm a good "sweep" running the back as i can actually hear the front of the group.

GMRS is worth it for the neanderthal such as me.

Pretty much as plug and play as you can get. Whats cool, is they can also use FRS frequencies, you know those cheap-o handhelds that kids play with. So you can hand those out to strangers, kids, and your vehicle becomes a base camp... etc.

There is no programming (for midlands) but other brands do make programmable GMRS radios (if thats your thang).


To use the high power frequencies, you have to pay for a fee for a license and is cheap, no test, lasts 10 years, and extends to anyone that lives in your address. You get a cool callsign if u want to nerd out. You do not need a license if u stick to the low power frequencies, but it gets annoying using the low power frequencies, because you get alot of children's cross chatter on those frequencies. It seems every kid has one when you travel to the middle of bum-fck nowhere..lol.

I ditched my CB radio because of GMRS..... Only thing is CB's have cool antenna's like the fire sticks, although the ghost antenna for GMRS is pretty cool. Now i got that big fatty one just to make up for my poor genetics..ahhahaa.

Also another cool thing about GMRS, the base units have gotten so small, you can do ghost installs in your vehicle. Out of sight, out of mind when the low lives come around.

I have no interest in HAM. Although i do have a HAM setup also, but its been sitting in a box along with my CB radio in my office.

Most people use GMRS (offroading, hikers, kids, etc).
CB is pretty much dead.
HAM is cool but not when nobody in you your social circle uses it...lol. Sure you can tune it to GMRS frequencies, but i have no interest in that because i hate programing and im lazy. i have other things to do with my life.
 
Last edited:
OEM Battery Replacement

2016 4Runner and the battery starting giving me fits in the cold weather. Luckily I had a 1200A lithium jump starter to save my bacon several times. Lots of research and fretting about an AGM. I ended up simply replacing with an EverStart MAXX from Walmart for $120 and if/when that one craps out I will go the AGM route with the alternator fuse mod. But for now, the T4R is back to cranking the starter on it’s own :)
 
2016 4Runner and the battery starting giving me fits in the cold weather. Luckily I had a 1200A lithium jump starter to save my bacon several times. Lots of research and fretting about an AGM. I ended up simply replacing with an EverStart MAXX from Walmart for $120 and if/when that one craps out I will go the AGM route with the alternator fuse mod. But for now, the T4R is back to cranking the starter on it’s own :)

AGM's are worth it though, especially since you have a winch or if you have offroad lights.

I've killed my lead acid batteries in the past just by using my winch.
 
Got my ARK mud flap delete kit installed. Engine splash guards goin on this weekend
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3922.jpg
    IMG_3922.jpg
    141.8 KB · Views: 511
Finally got around to replacing my 6 year old battery and installing the ARB twin compressor that has been sitting on my work bench since November. I also did the GM Diode mod to up the alternator voltage for the AGM battery.

52638410352_1a2ace3cd9_b.jpg


52639403358_8d82d0d043_b.jpg
Oh, that sounds juicy.

Can the alternator mod be done to any battery? Or does it have to be a special battery like the AGM?

Would love to have a more powerful battery and alternator.
 
Oh, that sounds juicy.

Can the alternator mod be done to any battery? Or does it have to be a special battery like the AGM?

Would love to have a more powerful battery and alternator.

DO NOT do the GM diode mod unless you have an AGM. The only reason to do this is that the AGM requires a higher charging voltage and the OEM voltage is too low, reducing its life and not charging it properly. Overvolting the alternator with a regular(non-AGM) battery will damage it.
 
DO NOT do the GM diode mod unless you have an AGM. The only reason to do this is that the AGM requires a higher charging voltage and the OEM voltage is too low, reducing its life and not charging it properly. Overvolting the alternator with a regular(non-AGM) battery will damage it.

Excellent, I'll not do it unless I upgrade the battery. I would love to have a simple battery upgrade that is that much better. Easy peasy.
 
Oh, that sounds juicy.

Can the alternator mod be done to any battery? Or does it have to be a special battery like the AGM?

Would love to have a more powerful battery and alternator.

DO NOT do the GM diode mod unless you have an AGM. The only reason to do this is that the AGM requires a higher charging voltage and the OEM voltage is too low, reducing its life and not charging it properly. Overvolting the alternator with a regular(non-AGM) battery will damage it.

I believe a company makes toggle switches now that you can use to mimic the GM diode mod. you can toggle to higher output or lower output

ARCLightLED Voltage Booster for the 5th Gen 4Runner, Review & Install

What these guys said. You don't need to up the voltage unless you get an AGM. My AGM requires a voltage of 14.1 to 14.8 volts. The GM diode brought me up to 14 to 14.5 volts. Close enough. The switches that can do the same thing are very nice - they can easily get your system to 14.5v and you still retain the factory fuse. The downside is they cost close to $100. The GM diode is $5 (you can get them cheaper if you buy bulk). The GM diode is also only rated for 1 amp (the original fuse is rated for 7.5a), so just in case it blows, I still have the old fuse sitting in the fuse puller in the fuse box.
 
Washed, Waxed, & Fueled - an no place to go!

Snagged the wife's 2011 5th gen 4R SR5 for the day under the guise of finishing up some last-minute details on her audio system upgrade & soundproofing.
(I DID actually tweak her EQ so it sounded better than before)

For a bonus Valentine's Day gift I washed, detailed, and waxed it for her.
Then bought her a full tank of gas.

Note: I once asked my dad what his secret was to a happy marriage. He asked me: "Do you want to be happy or do you want to be right?"
I haven't been right for 7yrs. Happy Wife = Happy Life :whipping2
 

Attachments

  • thumbnail_IMG_3413.jpg
    thumbnail_IMG_3413.jpg
    79.3 KB · Views: 774
Last edited:
It’s been a long time since I’ve been able to work on my truck. But, I finally got after some long overdue maintenance. Today, new tires. I swapped out the 285/70-17 BFG AT’s for a 295/70-17 Goodyear Duratrac. Very happy so far.
 

Attachments

  • 00CCB882-A84D-4AE9-8860-00F97B33EBD3.jpg
    00CCB882-A84D-4AE9-8860-00F97B33EBD3.jpg
    138.3 KB · Views: 766
The tires are definitely 'beefy' but what the heck are you doing to your rear quarter window???


That's a fancy triple suction mount with carbon fiber boom and Insta360 camera.

I have 5%-15% off coupons for the camera if you want one too.

The 360 camera does cool stuff like this:

2ohZ4Ll.jpg
Cv0Ybgn.jpg
nO30T7i.jpg
PlU5YBs.jpg
 
Dealer stripped out my front threads to my skid plate, and decided to hack up the skid plate to "fit around" my front recovery points, even though the have been on the 4Runner for over 30k miles....

Luckily dealer sent me a new skid plate and added new thread inserts to the lower radiator support.

I decided to take advantage of this time and help prevent this from happening again by adding stainless threaded rods and stainless cap nuts to secure the skid plate. I simply cut threaded rods to size, and used Loctite with a flat Vise Grip to tighten the rods.

Easy project; we will see if it stays secure. May add some lock washers between the skid and the cap nuts if they loosen on me.

KYp4t4e.jpg


jcZc88C.jpg


E64kD27.jpg
 
H4 to H2

First, I wanna say thanks to all of you for being such an awesome and friendly community. I bought my first 4Runner last month and it's been a short but exciting journey so far. Many years to go.
I have a question when shifting from H4 to H2 and vice versa. Recently, I noticed the 4WD sign on the dash would instantly go away when switching from H2 to H4 and vice versa However, this wasn't always the case. It used to blink for about 10-15 seconds then finally disappear. I'm like 99% sure it's fine and nothing to worry about but the curiosity is getting to me. What's causing the 4WD sign to immediately disappear rather than multiple blinks then disappearing? Or does it not matter at all and I'm overthinking this?
 
Last edited:
First, I wanna say thanks to all of you for being such an awesome and friendly community. I bought my first 4Runner last month and it's been a short but exciting journey so far. Many years to go.
I have a question when shifting from H4 to H2 and vice versa. Recently, I noticed the 4WD sign on the dash would instantly go away when switching from H2 to H4 and vice versa However, this wasn't always the case. It used to blink for about 10-15 seconds then finally disappear. I'm like 99% sure it's fine and nothing to worry about but the curiosity is getting to me. What's causing the 4WD sign to immediately disappear rather than multiple blinks then disappearing? Or does it not matter at all and I'm overthinking this?

you are overthinking this.
 
First, I wanna say thanks to all of you for being such an awesome and friendly community. I bought my first 4Runner last month and it's been a short but exciting journey so far. Many years to go.
I have a question when shifting from H4 to H2 and vice versa. Recently, I noticed the 4WD sign on the dash would instantly go away when switching from H2 to H4 and vice versa However, this wasn't always the case. It used to blink for about 10-15 seconds then finally disappear. I'm like 99% sure it's fine and nothing to worry about but the curiosity is getting to me. What's causing the 4WD sign to immediately disappear rather than multiple blinks then disappearing? Or does it not matter at all and I'm overthinking this?


Was it a used car? I had a very similar experience with my new to me 4Runner. Took a little persuading to get it in and out of 4wd and now it shifts much smoother and faster. My theory is the previous owner didn’t use 4wd much and since I’ve bought the vehicle I have exercised the mechanism a bit and it now has less trouble switching back and forth.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
First, I wanna say thanks to all of you for being such an awesome and friendly community. I bought my first 4Runner last month and it's been a short but exciting journey so far. Many years to go.
I have a question when shifting from H4 to H2 and vice versa. Recently, I noticed the 4WD sign on the dash would instantly go away when switching from H2 to H4 and vice versa However, this wasn't always the case. It used to blink for about 10-15 seconds then finally disappear. I'm like 99% sure it's fine and nothing to worry about but the curiosity is getting to me. What's causing the 4WD sign to immediately disappear rather than multiple blinks then disappearing? Or does it not matter at all and I'm overthinking this?

lever or dial shifter? I have the dial shifter (limited trim level) and if I'm in N and shift from H4F to H4L it's instantaneous and the light doesn't even blink once. if if I'm moving, it might blink a few times depending on speed and then go solid. when disengaging it might blink once or twice when moving and instantaneous when in N. I think it just depends on your speed and what gear you're in maybe. but I also have a limited so my front diff is always moving and engaged- I don't know if that matters

I think you're overthinking
 
Was it a used car? I had a very similar experience with my new to me 4Runner. Took a little persuading to get it in and out of 4wd and now it shifts much smoother and faster. My theory is the previous owner didn’t use 4wd much and since I’ve bought the vehicle I have exercised the mechanism a bit and it now has less trouble switching back and forth.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, it's a 2019 ORP. Sounds like I'm overthinking it.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,317
Messages
3,554,129
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top