Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Thanks for the links - ordered. I was having trouble navigating their site - Toyota sites in general aren't all that intuitive for the casual user.....
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What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Thanks for the links - ordered. I was having trouble navigating their site - Toyota sites in general aren't all that intuitive for the casual user.....
It wasn't exactly today, but, repaired my automatic antenna on my 1997 base model. The weld that holds the bracket that holds the antenna motor to the body broke. The antenna shot out of its track and landed in a parking lot. I removed the fender and paid a guy to tack-weld the bracket back in place. The radio works perfectly now. Well, maybe not perfectly, but pretty good for being 23 years old.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Ran into a really lovely issue today. Went to replace my OTREs today. On side came off fine. Thought I had a brilliant idea by hitting the steering stop on one side and popping the tie rod from the ball joint at full lock on that side and trying to adjust the new one to go back in at full lock. Obviously didn't quite work as my steering wheel is not centered now >< The real trouble came though from the passenger side. Turns out the inner is rusted solid into the outer. PB and some heat (maybe not enough) didn't budge it. In the process I also realized that I should check what the normal diagnostic procedure is for the inners and sure enough they are toast (no play yet but they are loose enough to fall down under the weight of the outers). Now I'm starting to wonder if should spend 570 on new inners and boots or just drop another 130 and replace the whole rack with OEM. Problem is I don't have sloppy steering and there are no leaks on the body of the rack (I'll see if there's any leaking in the boots tomorrow but I haven't seen any obvious signs of that). Not even sure honestly if it's OEM or not that's currently on there although I do suspect it's not the original given that I have 277k right now. @Brilo_76 looks like my gloating about not running into rust issues finally caught up with me lol.
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Rushthezeppelin
New member
Slight correction. Looks like from Stevinson West in Golden online discount inners and boots would be 520 vs a whole new rack with all that for 570. Looks like this a no brainer. Also gives me a good excuse to just dump the fluid do a and screen cleaning to get rid of the pump whine at full lock hopefully.
When the inner tie rods on mine wear out I'll be going this route. Rack should come with new bushings too so that's a plus in my book. My pump whine went away completely after cleaning the screen. It was so clogged I'm surprised any fluid could get through at all. I had to soak it with brake cleaner for an hour to get it to loosen up any. Power steering reservoir o ring 90301-11016 if you don't have it yet.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Thanks for the reminder about the PS pump o ring. Will definitely order that, I'm sure it's the original on there and probably threatening to leak ATF anytime. I'm going to be swapping the bushings for the ES ones I already have anyway. Figure it's going to be much easier anyway on a new rack that's not under the vehicle.
5 Speed Dave
New member
Front End Rebuilt on Ol Roscoe
I have been working on Roscoe for a while. Progress has been slow out in the driveway when weather allows. Last year I did REAR END - Factory Locker 4:30 ratio. That didn't match my 4:10 front SO got the FRONT diff out today. Going to have it rebuilt and re-geared to 4:30 so I can have 4X4 again. At 310,000 miles.
I have been working on Roscoe for a while. Progress has been slow out in the driveway when weather allows. Last year I did REAR END - Factory Locker 4:30 ratio. That didn't match my 4:10 front SO got the FRONT diff out today. Going to have it rebuilt and re-geared to 4:30 so I can have 4X4 again. At 310,000 miles.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Rack came in a day early, Stevenson Toyota in Golden is the freaking best. Decided to do some advanced prep work and install the new ES bushings that I've had on my computer desk for 2 months tonight. Glad I get to install these on a brand new OEM rack instead of a potentially clapped reman. Man this job is a pain in the butt with a rent-a-ball joint press. That long bushing is tricky with the normal 3 press sleeve kit you get at orielys but I got it out. Hopefully this job goes nice and smooth. Going to start tomorrow evening after some stuff at my parish and then I can leisurely finish up and mess with a rough alignment driving around the block. Got a plan that should hopefully keep me at about the same toe and hopefully keep the wheel centered. Super excited to have refreshed steering and dump what I'm pretty sure is a reman rack. On a side note, anyone on the south side of Denver want some free OEM bushings? They came out with 0 damage.
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thanks for the links
and speaking of cold weather struts just want you to know that your hood struts still keep my hood open at minus 40 degrees
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
You're welcome! And thanks for the feedback on the hood struts' cold weather performance - good to know! :thumb:
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Just wrapped up the first half of the rack replacement. Everything went extremely well too.
Biggest hiccup was removing the PS reservoir. At first the damn pulley was in the way of the front bolt so I had to just tap my key in the starter 3 times and I got the hole in the pulley lined up. Was trying to figure out a way as I nearly had it out to use a magnet to catch said bolt but there's just not much room to work with, sure enough I dropped it and of course it didn't just fall straight down. Searched for about 5 minutes and sure enough it's sitting on the frame tucked behind a wiring harness. Magnet got it out no problem and thankfully the lock washer was still on it. Is it just a law of nature that bolts dropped in an engine bay can never just drop straight out the bottom? This thing had to have traversed a good 5-6" in the air to land where it did lol. Surprisingly that nasty little bolt tucked in the back corner didn't decide to fly off when I got him out, that thing is a pain in the butt. Only thing that worked to loosen him was tediously working him with an open end wrench.
Got to work cleaning the reservoir screen and my little light died on me. Tim isn't kidding with how clogged that thing gets, mine maybe had 5-10% of the screen still showing light through. No wonder she squealed like a pig at full lock. Got it about 80% clean tonight, will finish up with more light tomorrow and get everything button back up. Biggest trick I think is going to be getting the bottom half of the rag joint lined back up right on the rack to where I can keep it on the center match marks with my wheel centered, we will see how that goes.
Going to go take a shower and get a good nights rest and get the rest knocked out bright and early tomorrow, hoping my thread count on the outers gets me pretty nailed on the tow and I don't have to end up with the dreaded situation of running out of adjustment when I take it to the shop to get it aligned Wednesday.
Seriously the information from this forum and Tim videos on this job is invaluable.
Biggest hiccup was removing the PS reservoir. At first the damn pulley was in the way of the front bolt so I had to just tap my key in the starter 3 times and I got the hole in the pulley lined up. Was trying to figure out a way as I nearly had it out to use a magnet to catch said bolt but there's just not much room to work with, sure enough I dropped it and of course it didn't just fall straight down. Searched for about 5 minutes and sure enough it's sitting on the frame tucked behind a wiring harness. Magnet got it out no problem and thankfully the lock washer was still on it. Is it just a law of nature that bolts dropped in an engine bay can never just drop straight out the bottom? This thing had to have traversed a good 5-6" in the air to land where it did lol. Surprisingly that nasty little bolt tucked in the back corner didn't decide to fly off when I got him out, that thing is a pain in the butt. Only thing that worked to loosen him was tediously working him with an open end wrench.
Got to work cleaning the reservoir screen and my little light died on me. Tim isn't kidding with how clogged that thing gets, mine maybe had 5-10% of the screen still showing light through. No wonder she squealed like a pig at full lock. Got it about 80% clean tonight, will finish up with more light tomorrow and get everything button back up. Biggest trick I think is going to be getting the bottom half of the rag joint lined back up right on the rack to where I can keep it on the center match marks with my wheel centered, we will see how that goes.
Going to go take a shower and get a good nights rest and get the rest knocked out bright and early tomorrow, hoping my thread count on the outers gets me pretty nailed on the tow and I don't have to end up with the dreaded situation of running out of adjustment when I take it to the shop to get it aligned Wednesday.
Seriously the information from this forum and Tim videos on this job is invaluable.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Finished up and loaded my 2nd row storage panels
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Nice! Are these homemade or bought? Source if bought?
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Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Replaced the antenna mast that decided to fly out at 80 mph somewhere near Sacramento:
New part from amayama:
Five minutes later, good as new:
The teeth didn't look all that worn, so I didn't bother to go through the hassle of disassembling and cleaning the motor of any debris. Time will tell if this was a wise gamble
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New part from amayama:
Five minutes later, good as new:
The teeth didn't look all that worn, so I didn't bother to go through the hassle of disassembling and cleaning the motor of any debris. Time will tell if this was a wise gamble
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Bought them from Amazon MAIKER Side Bed Molle Panel Rack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XXKZH3W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. I used three of the factory seat back backer board clip holes in each seat back. Then had to drill each panel and seat back frame for a fourth and add m5 threaded rivets.
Spent yesterday deep-cleaning my engine bay before I tuned up a bit.
Part numbers for anyone interested:
PCV Valve 1220462010
PCV Valve Grommet 9048018001
Vent Hose 1226162041
- Replaced spark plugs and cables
- Cleaned my MAFS and throttle body
- Replaced the PCV valve, grommet, and hose
- Topped off oil, coolant, and washer fluid
Part numbers for anyone interested:
PCV Valve 1220462010
PCV Valve Grommet 9048018001
Vent Hose 1226162041
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Welp.......decided since I'm going in for the alignment just to make sure I don't have the dreaded cams seized into the bushing sleeve. Driver side was great. Passenger side is a different story. Took the nuts with the adjuster plates off and doused the interface between the bushing sleeves and the cams on that side with PB. Hoping probably beyond hope that I'm one of the few lucky ones that this works for. Otherwise I guess I will install those whitelines that I have sitting on my desk currently (probably going to try the axle nut trick instead of going out and buying a sawzall and the diablo blades). Originally decided to hold off on those because most of the rubber on my truck looks great still and frankly the new rack and OTREs actually seems to have largely solved my wandering steering problem (I also wonder if the screen cleaning had something to do with it as I'm sure I now have much better PS fluid pressure).
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Well bad news and good news. Bad news, cams were still frozen solid. Good news is somehow they were still able to get pretty decent caster out of that side, not really sure how they pulled it off but they obviously got some movement out of those cams just looking at them (I assume they are just binding the bushing up a bit? could that potentially cause the alignment to slip?). Also appears I managed to get the toe on the driveway alignment pretty good after installing the rack. Tru Automotive on the S side of Denver really came through for me, and great customer service as well when I decided to add in a mount and balance of a new spare last minute. Also they got my steering all reclocked on the input shaft to rag joint connection and centered out my tie rods. All for 125. She's driving great now too, wandering steering is gone now and I have a wheel that centers. Anyway here's my numbas.
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