96RedRunner
Senior Member
Can you track it yet? :bravo:
Have V.1 Harrop 10k mi I'll be interesested hearing about V.2 as you get seat time.
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Can you track it yet? :bravo:
Have V.1 Harrop 10k mi I'll be interesested hearing about V.2 as you get seat time.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
01 Trans service knock on wood
Follow up on Screen 15.5 qt exch pint Seafoam.
700 mi it loooking good ha, just buying time whine gone up/dwn shifts feeling solid last 100 mi or so.
Follow up on Screen 15.5 qt exch pint Seafoam.
700 mi it loooking good ha, just buying time whine gone up/dwn shifts feeling solid last 100 mi or so.
Did a little work on the new front diff. Stripped down the old diff (the original 4.10 ratio) and got it ready to box up and send back to ECGS for the core charge. And boxed up my old slightly whiny 4.10 e-locker diff for a core return as well.
And put the non-ADD passenger leg onto the new 4.88 locker front diff.
And put the non-ADD passenger leg onto the new 4.88 locker front diff.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Made progress on putting some things together in the engine bay. Valve covers are back on, new injectors are in, and the intake is back in place. I really like how the re-plated parts came out, especially that throttle linkage assembly.
infamousRNR
Senior Member
looks REALLY good!!!
im going to be doing the something similar went down the path of the wrinkle black look. since there will be a supercharger on top, it will "roughly" (pun intended) match the supercharger coating... hehe
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Spiker Engineering
official vendor
That looks pretty sharp! Looking forward to seeing it all together.
Tinman1985
New member
Ended up making my own outside shock relocation mounts for $10 in steel versus $220 for the snowbound customs ones. Used 4th gen 4runner 0-1.5" lift shocks (FOX p/n 985-24-124).
Ride is much more predictable now. It felt like a slinky before, but then again the Icon shocks were blown out from very little use.
Ride is much more predictable now. It felt like a slinky before, but then again the Icon shocks were blown out from very little use.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Both coatings look real good. Got me to thinking!
Next time I run into guy that ceracoats going to ask him what it'll cost.
It's held up well on run guns couple yrs use more abuse than under hood. hhmm may be an alternative.
Tinman1985
New member
There is 3.25" shaft showing at ride height on saggy OME 891 coils. I am not terribly worried about bottoming out as it's a daily only. I went with the 4th gen shocks mostly to have more options at a better price.
fatherohenry
Member
Replaced Air Intake Tube
Got the first of two shipments from Amayama today and it included a new air intake. Heater control valve with associated clamps and hoses are up next.
Amazing how soft and pliable the new hose is. 27 years really takes a toll.
On a totally different note, I couldn't get over how out of place the hood prop rod looked to me in this diagram. Those Spiker Engineering hood struts have really spoiled me!
Got the first of two shipments from Amayama today and it included a new air intake. Heater control valve with associated clamps and hoses are up next.
Amazing how soft and pliable the new hose is. 27 years really takes a toll.
On a totally different note, I couldn't get over how out of place the hood prop rod looked to me in this diagram. Those Spiker Engineering hood struts have really spoiled me!
Attachments
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Replaced Air Intake Tube
Got the first of two shipments from Amayama today and it included a new air intake. Heater control valve with associated clamps and hoses are up next.
Amazing how soft and pliable the new hose is. 27 years really takes a toll.
That air duct assembly looks really nice, got me thinking of adding that to my pending Amayama order. Did you get the new resonators too, or just cleaned up your existing ones?
/\ /\ /\ Nice!!!
I put the reuilt 4.88 e-locker in the rear axle yesterday evening. This was made more difficult by:
1) I have the vehicle supported by the rear axle, so the rear axle is at ride height, probably should have supported it by the frame
2) Rear sway bar was still installed, making an interference point as the diff goes toward its home
3) Lil Skippy's gas tank skid, love it, but it was getting in the way a bit as well.
All in all, a bit more wrestling than I was thinking it would be.
My e-locker actuator was a little crusty looking (salt belt stuff, SIGH), and has a cracked case, but it's been working just fine. But we had a far better looking one in the basement, lucky find at a PnP yard (e-locker diffs an actuators are QUICK to go). So I decided to use that one. And wanted to make sure it was in the locked position, same as the diff, before installing it. So I plugged it in, dangling in the open, turned the car on and cycled the locker switch. NOTHING, no movement at all. What? The nice looking motor is dead? Noooo!!!
So I plugged in my old motor, which worked on disassembly (I locked it to make removing it easier). And.... it was dead too?
Habanero was nice enough to unplug her locker and test out both of these actuators on her truck, and, neither one worked properly there either? But her locker did. Curiouser and curiouser.
So I took the wiring harness (the wiring from the locker to the body, and a pigtail of the car wiring to that) and stripped the two motor power wires, and tried that on a battery, alternating positive and negative terminals. And both motors worked normally and properly. ??? Hab? Your wiring might have an issue?
So sort of zeroing in on my truck having some sort of issue between locking the diff on disassembly and testing it on reassembly. So just to see, I unplugged my harness and plugged in the junkyard harness, plugged an actuator in and... it worked. As did the other one. Apparently somewhere in the process if disassembly I must have yanked on the wiring(??? don't think I did) and broken a wire somewhere. It all looked good. Anyhow, swapped the junkyard harness on, actuator is working fine, so I locked it, installed it, and the axle locked and unlocked normally.
Sheesh, a bit more hassle than I was expecting. Up next - removing and replacing the hard brake lines on the axle. I got new ones a while back, mine were a bit corroded at the ends. And the line sezed in the fitting on one side on disassembly, twisting the line and breaking it.
I put the reuilt 4.88 e-locker in the rear axle yesterday evening. This was made more difficult by:
1) I have the vehicle supported by the rear axle, so the rear axle is at ride height, probably should have supported it by the frame
2) Rear sway bar was still installed, making an interference point as the diff goes toward its home
3) Lil Skippy's gas tank skid, love it, but it was getting in the way a bit as well.
All in all, a bit more wrestling than I was thinking it would be.
My e-locker actuator was a little crusty looking (salt belt stuff, SIGH), and has a cracked case, but it's been working just fine. But we had a far better looking one in the basement, lucky find at a PnP yard (e-locker diffs an actuators are QUICK to go). So I decided to use that one. And wanted to make sure it was in the locked position, same as the diff, before installing it. So I plugged it in, dangling in the open, turned the car on and cycled the locker switch. NOTHING, no movement at all. What? The nice looking motor is dead? Noooo!!!
So I plugged in my old motor, which worked on disassembly (I locked it to make removing it easier). And.... it was dead too?
Habanero was nice enough to unplug her locker and test out both of these actuators on her truck, and, neither one worked properly there either? But her locker did. Curiouser and curiouser.
So I took the wiring harness (the wiring from the locker to the body, and a pigtail of the car wiring to that) and stripped the two motor power wires, and tried that on a battery, alternating positive and negative terminals. And both motors worked normally and properly. ??? Hab? Your wiring might have an issue?
So sort of zeroing in on my truck having some sort of issue between locking the diff on disassembly and testing it on reassembly. So just to see, I unplugged my harness and plugged in the junkyard harness, plugged an actuator in and... it worked. As did the other one. Apparently somewhere in the process if disassembly I must have yanked on the wiring(??? don't think I did) and broken a wire somewhere. It all looked good. Anyhow, swapped the junkyard harness on, actuator is working fine, so I locked it, installed it, and the axle locked and unlocked normally.
Sheesh, a bit more hassle than I was expecting. Up next - removing and replacing the hard brake lines on the axle. I got new ones a while back, mine were a bit corroded at the ends. And the line sezed in the fitting on one side on disassembly, twisting the line and breaking it.
fatherohenry
Member
I just wiped them down with a little Meguiar's tire foam. They were in remarkable shape.
picantesauce
Junior Member
shadow247
New member
Get both rubber elbows. You can clean up the plastic piece pretty easily with some deagreaser when you have it off the truck.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
You and your zero context posts lol....and I've even been to your shop. I'm guessing you have that giant Miller TIG plugged in right now to 220?
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