0xfded
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I need to do this. Such a clever, simple mod.
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Mindomission
New member
Saw this. Liked it. Did it. Thanks [MENTION=98776]Mindomission[/MENTION] and vicariously [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION]!
Mine were out of a 99 Rav4. Note: get the ones with the angled hose connector, they need to point towards the passenger side of the truck when installed.
New.....vs.....old
Simply clips in
Glad I could pass-on a great mini-mod! With all the gizmos you've added to your rig, one would have thought you'd have them already!
Jason B
Official Vendor
What is that?
Mindomission
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StreetCreeper
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Went to loosen the front sway bar so I could drop the transmission pan and I noticed this.
This is a no-rust California truck with about 390,000 miles.
I don't wheel hard or often, so I'm not sure when or how this happened. Is this a typical way for the end link to break?
Anyways, got all that stuff out of the way and started on dropping the pan. I noticed when I swapped out the old transmission solenoids with new ones — the new solenoids are bigger than the old ones and have longer connections. Once installed, this extra wire hangs pretty low.
I'm hesitant to start cramming the wires up into the valve body but I don't know if letting them hang down low is a good idea either.
Anyone know a good way to get these out of harms way?
Also, after scraping the FIPG off the transmission, I'm wondering if it's safe to spray the valve body and surrounding mating surfaces with brake cleaner to remove any chunks/debris from the old gasket?
What the pan and magnets look like after almost 400, 000 miles.
This is a no-rust California truck with about 390,000 miles.
I don't wheel hard or often, so I'm not sure when or how this happened. Is this a typical way for the end link to break?
Anyways, got all that stuff out of the way and started on dropping the pan. I noticed when I swapped out the old transmission solenoids with new ones — the new solenoids are bigger than the old ones and have longer connections. Once installed, this extra wire hangs pretty low.
I'm hesitant to start cramming the wires up into the valve body but I don't know if letting them hang down low is a good idea either.
Anyone know a good way to get these out of harms way?
Also, after scraping the FIPG off the transmission, I'm wondering if it's safe to spray the valve body and surrounding mating surfaces with brake cleaner to remove any chunks/debris from the old gasket?
What the pan and magnets look like after almost 400, 000 miles.
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infamousRNR
Senior Member
dude... i am fearing that i have to swap out some solenoids as well...
my shifter from first to 2nd is always a lurch forward and sometime form 3rd to 4th it feels like the transmission is being dropped...
like it jumps into gear all abruptly...
what made you drop the pan and start replacing solenoids>???
StreetCreeper
New member
About a month & half ago I noticed that my truck was was shifting a little weird. Mainly as I would slow down from highway speeds then get on the throttle again, I noticed a delay before shifting that was never there before.
Later during a Thanksgiving trip to Grandma's house, the torque converter started locking/unlocking constantly at highway speeds. Was also getting P0770 & 0773 codes.
Otherwise it ran fine, no power loss or funny sounds. The tourqe converter isn't locking or unlocking anymore at highway speeds. Gas mileage seems to be down because of it.
how come your new solenoids are longer wires/etc than the old ones? I guess not your fault if that's how they came OEM, eh?
New shift solenoids... lower MPG? Kind of an odd correlation there isn't it?
MattJakobs
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StreetCreeper
New member
Not sure why they look different but every solenoid I found online for them looked the same, so I didn't worry too much. They snapped right in without problem and the mounting holes line up perfect with the bracket holes.
As for the MPG, I think I should have worded it better. The torque converter is not working properly because of the solenoid. MPG have suffered since it stopped working properly. I have installed the new solenoids but have not yet completed the job. Tomorrow I will finish by reinstalling the pan as well as an inline Magnefine filter. Then do a flush.
Rizzels_Runner
New member
Put together my final shopping carts for parts to order as soon as insurance check shows up. What would you guys recommend for cv axles? Get them rebuilt by Toyota or buy new ones from Napa?
BoarderDave
New member
Bit of a tune up day for my T4R.. 158k miles, decided it was time for fresh plugs and wires.. fuel filter will be going in probably tomorrow too. 
s20004runner
New member
you know you can pop out that rear bumper trim in like 2 seconds...
the limited flares and trim, not so much....
looks good though!
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infamousRNR
Senior Member
There are some re-manned OEM ones with extended boots someone said they got recently....
Can't remember who it was but I'm hoping someone chimes in about this because I had a shop replace my CV's and they both ripped within 2-3 months.. So I keep going back and now they won't replace them because of obvious lift reasons...
I hope someone can tell me where that dude bought his from because although I plan to reboot my original CV's (don't through away your OEM ones!) I want some new ones.... OEM for life if you can afford it
There is definitely some stuff I wouldn't skimp on the quality of. IE: OEM LBJ versus the parts store stuff. If that fails, bad news.
I got my CV axles from Autozone. Now maybe I'm lucky here, but they looked like rebuilt OEM's. My friend works there and said buy 1, install it, then return the removed stocker as a "damaged unit" and I'll give you a second new one.
We did this and couldn't see any differences in the units. If it fails on me, boot tears, ect within any short period of time, I'll never do this again. Meanwhile, they are lifetime warranty, and I'm into both sides for $65.
I was able to "fish" and get OEM inner and outer TRE's from AZ as well. Might be worth it to save some cash. I imagine OEM CV's are what, $200+ each?
I got my CV axles from Autozone. Now maybe I'm lucky here, but they looked like rebuilt OEM's. My friend works there and said buy 1, install it, then return the removed stocker as a "damaged unit" and I'll give you a second new one.
We did this and couldn't see any differences in the units. If it fails on me, boot tears, ect within any short period of time, I'll never do this again. Meanwhile, they are lifetime warranty, and I'm into both sides for $65.
I was able to "fish" and get OEM inner and outer TRE's from AZ as well. Might be worth it to save some cash. I imagine OEM CV's are what, $200+ each?
JerkyDrewster
Member
I got some remans with the extended boots from CVJ axles. So far so good after 5 months!
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