What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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F***

Well I was enjoying a quiet ride from work today and all of the sudden I noticed a thud noise under the drivers seat. Sounded like something was scrapping so when I got home I got under the truck and then I noticed this... Crazy thing is I just got it back up and running after adding a new lift and new tires, this project seems like a never ending obstacle and it's really testing my patience lol

First the ball joint has some play, I replaced it lower and upper
Tie rods were bad, replaced those
Driver axle had a leak so I replaced that

Waited for parts for a week had some serious tire rub, fixed that. Got it and drove it for a week before I left town for a week. Drove it this week to work school and now this lol

Leaking axle boot... Now I'm under it trying to get it ready to get it fixed

:ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::ybrick:
 

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finished the rear control arm/panhard bar bushings upgrade to polys. took me a little while, but i'm picky with things. pretty easy. rearend is nice and solid now. my good used lower control arms are available to anyone that needs good used ones. the bushings are solid.
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Well I was enjoying a quiet ride from work today and all of the sudden I noticed a thud noise under the drivers seat. Sounded like something was scrapping so when I got home I got under the truck and then I noticed this... Crazy thing is I just got it back up and running after adding a new lift and new tires, this project seems like a never ending obstacle and it's really testing my patience lol

First the ball joint has some play, I replaced it lower and upper
Tie rods were bad, replaced those
Driver axle had a leak so I replaced that

Waited for parts for a week had some serious tire rub, fixed that. Got it and drove it for a week before I left town for a week. Drove it this week to work school and now this lol

Leaking axle boot... Now I'm under it trying to get it ready to get it fixed

:ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::ybrick::ybrick:
Shoe goo and fusion tape. Great temp fix. That boots not bad looking at all.
 
[MENTION=137305]HawkNation[/MENTION]

I think you would find a close match if you used Duplicolor white primer then 2 light coats of Duplicolor Graphite Wheel Paint, followed by Duplicolor clear wheel paint.

My wheels are Duplicolor graphite and while mine (2nd pic) are a bit darker, you could correct that with a white primer and two thin coats instead of two thick coats like I did.


* Self Etching Primer | Amazon.com: Dupli-Color DAP1690 General Purpose Self-Etching Primer - 12 oz.: Automotive
* Wheel Paint - Graphite | http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HWP102-Graphite-Performance-coating/dp/B000B6AF26/
* Wheel Paint - Clear Coat | http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HWP103-Clear-Performance-Wheel/dp/B000B6AF2G/


:thumb:



What kind of prep work did you do to paint them?
 
Front clip is still off my runner. Steeling parts off my parts truck replacing front pulley parts. Also doing my timing belt and water pump. So much to do, so little time. Also coming around to the idea of removing the clutch fan and going electric, would definitely would clean up the engine bay.
 
[MENTION=82289]Yoter[/MENTION], there's an NCS in town here that I originally went to, but they "need" a flat piece of sample for their camera. there was no place on the rim that they could use to get a match. It's so heavily flecked between black and the gunmetal color I'm not sure it would match up anyway. I had them mix up some blue metalflake for a bike project a few years ago and it was about 18 for a can. If I'm gonna spend close to 20 bucks on a rattlecan I want it to be a damn near perfect match.

I'm having a 5th wheel done in the same powder. Columbia Coatings gunmetal grey I think. Anyway, the guy doing the work (friend of a friend) said he'd sent a sample piece that hopefully I can use for the camera down the road. The caps are going on tomorrow, they turned out pretty well with the SEM paint.
[MENTION=139501]Tacticalrunner[/MENTION] : It's called Trim Black and it's made by SEM. I believe carquest carries it. here's a link to amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O

I blasted my luggage rack bases and crossbars and repainted them with the same stuff. It holds up pretty well, just do the prepwork. We'll see how it holds up on my centercaps (I'm giving them 3 days to completely cure before going on the wheels).
 
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[MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION]

Those rims look awesome, but it looks to me like yours are more of a uniform color? It's hard to tell on my picture (shitty iphone camera) but my wheels are pretty flecked (think salt & pepper kinda thing). That's what I'm worried about with finding a suitable match, especially in the sun you notice the black specks in the wheels. I even have the manufacturer and paint code for the powder, but the paint shop in my town apparently can't match their brands to Columbia coatings paint codes.
 
[MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION]
Those rims look awesome, but it looks to me like yours are more of a uniform color? It's hard to tell on my picture (shitty iphone camera) but my wheels are pretty flecked (think salt & pepper kinda thing)....

Hi,

I'm pretty sure I could do a 80% match just using the method suggested. Yours look like a graphite/grey metallic but noticeably lighter than mine. That is why I suggest just doing two light coats over a white primer. If you do two thick/med coats it would look a bit darker than your wheel. Either way, it would look better than black. No no no no no to that black center cap. Just my opinion though. Besides, the duplicolor paint is cheap. You could try this for < $20 shipped. That SEM paint will need at least a week to cure since the time your sprayed it before you can repaint. I'd just strip off all the SEM paint on the plastic center caps and start over. Different paint brands rarely play nice with each other.

Alternatively you could just find another paint guy because it really isn't that hard to 90% match a simple metallic grey. These are wheels after all, not a car hood.


What kind of prep work did you do to paint them?

All my prep work is documented here:

--> http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...licolor-3rd-gen-wheel-painting-how-story.html

Which is of course also saved in the master how to and documentation for 3rd gens sticky, located here:

--> http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...faq-tutorials-documentation-reference-v2.html


:peep:
 
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I finished the run in period on my new gears...

Changed front and rear diff oil.. ordered some lower ball joints to tide me over until I do my front end overhaul with new Toyota ones.
 
I just got my rotor, pads, rear universal, steering bushing, front and rear sway bar bushing replaced and happy with the result.
 
I just got my rotor, pads, rear universal, steering bushing, front and rear sway bar bushing replaced and happy with the result.



What do you mean rear universal?

The factory u joints on driveshaft are not serviceable up to my knowledge...
 
What do you mean rear universal?

The factory u joints on driveshaft are not serviceable up to my knowledge...

I had my rear u-joint replaced. It was making a clicking noise when I slowed so I have it replaced, works great now. Search the site, people have had to replace theirs before.
 
  • Ordered some Whiteline ARB bushes front and rear.. apparently these don't need grease and squeak less... so we'll see! (A actually drove yesterday with no ARBs... and for slow driving quite liked it... until I got to a corner)
  • Ordered an oil thermostat and same AN -10 and AN-6 fittings for transmission and engine oil coolers
  • Ordered a UV light and an AC recharge kit... as my A/C stopped working on Friday... just before the hottest weekend of the year, where I had a 5h drive. :cry2:
 
*Removed the carpet and pressure washed it. Found tons of quarters (thanks PO)
*Installed a new head unit from crutchfield
*did the taco whip mod as well
*Installed new floor mats from yota
 
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