also there is a write up someplace in the forum about how to set up the cables all correctly, sounds simple enough, but there is a correct way
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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also there is a write up someplace in the forum about how to set up the cables all correctly, sounds simple enough, but there is a correct way
yesterday
installed an obd reader and a mount and installed torque pro app on my phone, cant send a pic of the installation, as that would need a second phone
from amazon what I used was the BFAX OBD blue tooth adapter for android and the MPOW Grip Flex windshield mount. I like that one because it has a little foot you can stick to the dashboard, I did not use the sticky, but the foot helps hold it all steady anyway
I then set up the phone with one dashboard showing trans temp, coolant temp, volt meter and a tach ( yes I have a working tach) if I could have I would have set up an oil pressure gauge, but hey don't offer it.
I then set up a second dashboard with a compass, pitch, roll , altitude and another trans temp
I could have pulled the scangauge from my taco, but chose this route instead
I did not order the extension cable with the on and off switch for the obd reader as others have done, instead its no big deal for me to reach up and plug it in or unplug it and I don't need more cables floating around. ( they do continue to draw power when the key is off, I'm sure a very small amount)
then went and drove for about 130 miles, some rural roads, some freeway and about 25 miles of forest service roads
its neat to see the trans temps in all those situations
I had been curious of trans temps on the forest service roads as they are the most demanding, but the tranny temps were actually cooler on them then they were when I was driving high speeds or sticking my foot into it to pass someone on the paved roads
and I usually drive in the ECT mode
never saw the temps get above 187
installed an obd reader and a mount and installed torque pro app on my phone, cant send a pic of the installation, as that would need a second phone
from amazon what I used was the BFAX OBD blue tooth adapter for android and the MPOW Grip Flex windshield mount. I like that one because it has a little foot you can stick to the dashboard, I did not use the sticky, but the foot helps hold it all steady anyway
I then set up the phone with one dashboard showing trans temp, coolant temp, volt meter and a tach ( yes I have a working tach) if I could have I would have set up an oil pressure gauge, but hey don't offer it.
I then set up a second dashboard with a compass, pitch, roll , altitude and another trans temp
I could have pulled the scangauge from my taco, but chose this route instead
I did not order the extension cable with the on and off switch for the obd reader as others have done, instead its no big deal for me to reach up and plug it in or unplug it and I don't need more cables floating around. ( they do continue to draw power when the key is off, I'm sure a very small amount)
then went and drove for about 130 miles, some rural roads, some freeway and about 25 miles of forest service roads
its neat to see the trans temps in all those situations
I had been curious of trans temps on the forest service roads as they are the most demanding, but the tranny temps were actually cooler on them then they were when I was driving high speeds or sticking my foot into it to pass someone on the paved roads
and I usually drive in the ECT mode
never saw the temps get above 187
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Crazy09sage
New member
Bought new tires, strut assemblies, front sway bar links, brakes all the way around...
aeroneer1
New member
Aw I remember that day.. such a great feeling driving it after.
MN4runnerman
Senior Member
Today I showed some love to my 01 Sport. I finally got around to putting the lift kit that I pieced together on it. So initially the plan was Tundra 5100s all the way around with Fj Cruiser springs from a 2011 trail teams edition(which do work). The front struts weren't bad I just had to call my buddy so he could put some weight on the hub while I put the strut in and then he drank my beer. Also put new OEM LBJ's in since I was monkeying around in there. Then I moved on to the rear; the easy part right? Wrong! It was my fault too since I didn't pay attention but the lower bushings on the tundra 5100s are 1/2 inch?.......well they aren't 3/4 inch like the ones on the 4Runner. So I jump on T4R and I search up some info, and find that people either press the bushings out and put in different ones or don't buy these. Ok well I have them, so my only option is put in different bushings and I go through some parts bins and well I don't have any. Goddammit!!!!!!!!! I figure out that I could use a long bolt with a bushing on either side of the lower mount and half-ass it but then I decide not to. So my only other option is to call my work have them send me the cheapest Monroe rear shocks on the shelf ($15 each my cost!) and to deliver them to my house(I live 6 blocks away). I put those shocks in then and finished up with a few beers. I also did not need an alignment for some reason. On my test drive it drove just like it did before the lift. And that was the end of my fun for the day! Now after all that I'm either gonna have to order some 4Runner 5100s or I might just go on RockAuto and get some KYB's, haven't decided yet. Short term though the Monroes are fine.
Before numbers w/ 255/75/17 Cooper St Maxx
Front: from level ground to fender 35 3/4"
Rear: from level ground to fender 35 1/8"
After numbers w/ same Cooper tire
Front: from level ground to fender 37 7/8"
Rear: from level ground to fender 37 1/4"
Initial reaction:
I'm not really digging the Prerunner look with the front slightly higher still so I'll have to remedy that later. Other than that the ride is so much better. I only have about 140,xxx miles on the sport but the suspension was soft and lame. The new FJc springs really firm it up and take the bumps on the road at any speed much better. I only have 15 miles on the new suspension so it should settle some. Just an FYI the FJc springs had maybe 500 miles on them before the guy I bought them from lifted his rig.
Before numbers w/ 255/75/17 Cooper St Maxx
Front: from level ground to fender 35 3/4"
Rear: from level ground to fender 35 1/8"
After numbers w/ same Cooper tire
Front: from level ground to fender 37 7/8"
Rear: from level ground to fender 37 1/4"
Initial reaction:
I'm not really digging the Prerunner look with the front slightly higher still so I'll have to remedy that later. Other than that the ride is so much better. I only have about 140,xxx miles on the sport but the suspension was soft and lame. The new FJc springs really firm it up and take the bumps on the road at any speed much better. I only have 15 miles on the new suspension so it should settle some. Just an FYI the FJc springs had maybe 500 miles on them before the guy I bought them from lifted his rig.
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AntleredRuin
New member
I did my LBJs!
Took about 4 hours to do them both.
Well, actually took about 7 hours total because I spent 3 hours getting the proper tools…
I have a 3/8 drive breaker bar, and was going to rent a 3/8 drive torque wrench, and simply buy a 24mm 3/8 drive 6 point socket; I already had the 14mm and 19mm in 3/8 drive.
Simple, right?
Ohohoho no.
Apparently, no one sells a 24mm 6 point socket by itself, and 24mm sockets aren't available in 3/8 drive, only 1/2 drive.
There's a Lowe's across the street from my house, and I thought that'd be good. They only had a 24mm 12 point socket, and only in 1/2 drive. A 12 point SHOULD work, but I was scared to strip the bolt, and with 1/2 drive I'd have to rent a 1/2 drive torque wrench and buy a 1/2 drive breaker bar on top of the 3/8 drive rentals to match my current sockets.
Same deal with the AutoZone next door.
I went to the Home Depot 15 minutes away and they don't sell ANY 24mm single sockets at all. I'd have to buy a large diameter 1/2 drive socket set for $80, and still rent the 1/2 drive tools.
There was a second Lowe's across the street, in the same situation as the Home Depot. As I was leaving the second Lowe's, I had an 'Oh Shit' moment, and remembered and went back in to grab 2 cotter pins for the tie rod castle nuts.
So I looked online real fast (gotta love the smart phone) and drove to Harbor Freight 20 minutes away. Picked up a 25" 1/2 drive breaker bar, 1/2 drive torque wrench, and a full set of 6 point 1/2 drive sockets for $55 out the door. Screw Home Depot. And I kinda think for all my effort to do this honestly, I might be 'renting' these tools from HF.
I earned it.
Driving home, I stopped by Napa to rent a tie rod puller and pitman arm puller because I had some exact model numbers known to work perfectly, but was told by the counter guy that this Napa location doesn't loan tools. So BACK to AutoZone and got the pullers and some blue loctite (and geez that stuff is expensive; I was thinking a couple of those little packs at the checkout for like $3. Nope, starts at $9 for a bottle the size of my pinky nail, and $21 for the next size up….)
So 3 hours and 6 stores later (7 if you count that I tried AutoZone) twice, I had my motherflipping tools to START the job.
Other than that…things went pretty smoothly....
I know, I know…first world problems…
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
Took about 4 hours to do them both.
Well, actually took about 7 hours total because I spent 3 hours getting the proper tools…
I have a 3/8 drive breaker bar, and was going to rent a 3/8 drive torque wrench, and simply buy a 24mm 3/8 drive 6 point socket; I already had the 14mm and 19mm in 3/8 drive.
Simple, right?
Ohohoho no.
Apparently, no one sells a 24mm 6 point socket by itself, and 24mm sockets aren't available in 3/8 drive, only 1/2 drive.
There's a Lowe's across the street from my house, and I thought that'd be good. They only had a 24mm 12 point socket, and only in 1/2 drive. A 12 point SHOULD work, but I was scared to strip the bolt, and with 1/2 drive I'd have to rent a 1/2 drive torque wrench and buy a 1/2 drive breaker bar on top of the 3/8 drive rentals to match my current sockets.
Same deal with the AutoZone next door.
I went to the Home Depot 15 minutes away and they don't sell ANY 24mm single sockets at all. I'd have to buy a large diameter 1/2 drive socket set for $80, and still rent the 1/2 drive tools.
There was a second Lowe's across the street, in the same situation as the Home Depot. As I was leaving the second Lowe's, I had an 'Oh Shit' moment, and remembered and went back in to grab 2 cotter pins for the tie rod castle nuts.
So I looked online real fast (gotta love the smart phone) and drove to Harbor Freight 20 minutes away. Picked up a 25" 1/2 drive breaker bar, 1/2 drive torque wrench, and a full set of 6 point 1/2 drive sockets for $55 out the door. Screw Home Depot. And I kinda think for all my effort to do this honestly, I might be 'renting' these tools from HF.
I earned it.
Driving home, I stopped by Napa to rent a tie rod puller and pitman arm puller because I had some exact model numbers known to work perfectly, but was told by the counter guy that this Napa location doesn't loan tools. So BACK to AutoZone and got the pullers and some blue loctite (and geez that stuff is expensive; I was thinking a couple of those little packs at the checkout for like $3. Nope, starts at $9 for a bottle the size of my pinky nail, and $21 for the next size up….)
So 3 hours and 6 stores later (7 if you count that I tried AutoZone) twice, I had my motherflipping tools to START the job.
Other than that…things went pretty smoothly....
I know, I know…first world problems…
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
Ha ha
This is the joy of wrenching.
Youll look back and laugh about it.
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PS, [MENTION=129892]AntleredRuin[/MENTION], majority def. look to be 1/2 drive for the 24mm, but Google did puke this out:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-24-m...4Ely-wDcmSzTCW7DbhamoaAuHR8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
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A.Wilson013
New member
Followed [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] 's write up to replace my leaking output shaft seal on my t-case. Quite painless. I DID however push the seal in too far and had a hell of a time pulling it out of the t-case. I recommend NOT doing that.
Even with the hiccup, I was in and out in just over an hour.
Even with the hiccup, I was in and out in just over an hour.
AntleredRuin
New member
Haha I was already laughing through my increasing headache and my wife thought it was hilarious.
Nice find with the socket! It's not a 6 point though. I know it's not NECESSARY, but I hear so many horror stories of stripping a bolt and then having to have it towed, then labor, etc, that I'd rather play it safe. My inconvenience was small compared to what I've heard others have experienced.
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LittleCaesar
New member
Plenty of companies sell a 3/8 24mm socket, short or deep, but you usually won't find them at Lowes, HD. With certain NAPAs you may get lucky.
https://www.amazon.com/SK-Hand-Tool-324-Standard/dp/B000RN0DRA
The job is finished so congrats.:bluejump:
ZionXIX
New member
I always go for the impact sockets when looking for six point. i have never personally seen a 12 pt impact socket so that may help in your search. I buy the Harbor freight sets, its not like im making a career out of using those cheap tools. Just a few projects a year.
(Unrelated) However I did receive a very nice set of DeWalt impact driver and drill drivers a couple of years ago as a gift. I will most likely be able to pass them down to my grandchildren. Seriously, DeWalt makes good stuff.
Anytime I work on the truck, I end 2 times over budget and triple the estimated time. Usually due to 1st time doing that particular job and lack of proper tools. Living on an island is highly overrated.
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Rwhockey29
New member
not exactly 4runner related, but me and a friend secured a sponsorship for our miata to run chump car next year, which means saving more money to work on the truck
AntleredRuin
New member
I did end up using a 6 point impact set from HF. I'm no professional, so I know I don't abuse tools as much as those who use them more often, but Harbor Freight has always worked amazing for me. The only tool I have ever had an issue with was a set of tin snips that I got for Christmas. I did eventually break them at the hinge, but every other tool I've ever used from them (like half the tools in my arsenal) has been amazing. And I don't take care of my tools AT ALL. Even the power tools, which people say to stay away from. They might not be as powerful as name brands, but if they do the job well and cost vastly less, who cares?
I got the full set of 1/2 drive 6 pt impact sockets, 1/2 Drive breaker bar, and a 1/2 Drive torque wrench all for $55 out the door. Home Depot wanted almost $80 just for their own store brand sockets.
I actually did the job within my self alotted time frame (exactly 4 hours), it was finding the tools that killed me. I'm probably gonna return the tools, but we'll see. I might think of more uses for them in the next 90 days. Or I'll just keep the receipt, perform God almighty stress tests on them and go junkyard hunting like crazy, break the tools, and still get my money back...
And Dewalt is definitely nice. A comparison test is, well, no comparison. I just can't bring myself to spend that much when the HF works just fine at a 3rd (or less) the price.
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Fwiw if you haven't bought the moogs yet, I used Duralast for the inners and they stated lifetime warranty.
Outer TRE OEM price is not bad.
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4Runnin2000
New member
Yeah I did the OTREs oem when I did the Lbjs. I had a rack installed before that and figured my itre's were good. But now I have quite a bit of play at 3 to 9 o'clock on the wheel. So I'm hoping they were just cheap itre's. Figured I would start with that.
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JayRolla
New member
I had my new rack ITRE's fail within a month. Two sets of replacements failed. Moog and Napa brand I believe.
I broke down and paid for the OEM ITRE's and have been solid since. You can get them pretty cheap here and others have bought them with success but I have not used them. https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=4550339075
frodiesel
New member
That the thing about drivetrain upgrades. I did the same thing, i put in oem outers, oem lower ball joints and had it aligned. Two weeks later during an oil change i could tell the inner were shot tons of play between 3 and 9. If you have a couple weak components, and replace only some, those old parts will wear out faster.
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