What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Thank you jay the reason i ask is cause i can make my mind on which bumper to choose from


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I love the bumper. You see all the other bumpers on many different yotas but this is the one I see the least. The approach angle is great.
 
Double checking my mountain of lift parts that I have been gathering.

So far I have:
King 2.5 Extended Travel Coilovers
SPC Light Racing UCAs
Sanoran Steel 1.2 rear only lift. (In transit)
Pro Comp 7069 (x5) black 4" BS -12mm offset (in transit to discount tire)

So the obvious thing I feel I am missing is the front sway bars extensions. Thinking MDT. The SS rear lift comes with rear sway bar extensions. I am considering new LCA bushings.

Anything else that you guys don't see? The other thing that I might look to get before I install is all new install hardware for struts and coilovers. That may take some research to figure out part numbers and such.

For now I will be keeping my 265/75/16 BFG KO2s. I will rock those a while before I jump to anything else.

Getting excited.
 
Got a brake fluid flush done, Apparently very nasty, probably original fluid. 12 years dad never changed it... It seems a bit more sensitive at the first 20%. but the pedal was always pretty firm. A lot better than my moms 4th gen before we replaced all the calipers...


Rear vent solenoid by canister was dead, replaced with new. To take care of p0441 code.


Everyone can we hold hands and hope that the code doesn't come back?

Shot out to [MENTION=71030]T4R2014[/MENTION] steering me in the right direction Thanks man!
 
Double checking my mountain of lift parts that I have been gathering.

So far I have:
King 2.5 Extended Travel Coilovers
SPC Light Racing UCAs
Sanoran Steel 1.2 rear only lift. (In transit)
Pro Comp 7069 (x5) black 4" BS -12mm offset (in transit to discount tire)

So the obvious thing I feel I am missing is the front sway bars extensions. Thinking MDT. The SS rear lift comes with rear sway bar extensions. I am considering new LCA bushings.

Anything else that you guys don't see? The other thing that I might look to get before I install is all new install hardware for struts and coilovers. That may take some research to figure out part numbers and such.

For now I will be keeping my 265/75/16 BFG KO2s. I will rock those a while before I jump to anything else.

Getting excited.

I'd also get some front and rear sway bar bushings. You'll have both sway bars off so it's a really good time to knock those off the list. I used Prothane bushings I got from Amazon when I threw my 3" lift on and have no complaints.
 
Installed Bilstein 5100s all around, OME springs, OTRE, and an alignment.
 

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Oil change and rear differential fluid change using 80/90 weight.

I've got 218,500-ish miles and I'm still use standard weight oil. Do you guys use a high mileage formulation oil at that mileage?

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Oil change and rear differential fluid change using 80/90 weight.

I've got 218,500-ish miles and I'm still use standard weight oil. Do you guys use a high mileage formulation oil at that mileage?

I just changed my oil. My rigs got 240,xxx on it and I went with Castro GTX high mileage oil. I have no idea whether it's needed or not but it was cheap. I've also got a can of Blue Devil oil leak going in to try and slow down my rear main leak. So I have no idea if the high mileage stuff will do any good but this was the perfect opportunity to ***** some more about that rear main. :dammit:
 
Also a good reason to stick with OEM parts. This is a generic part store OTRE that failed within a year. Otherside wasn't as bad but both were replaced with OEM parts curtousy of Camelback Toyota. The wheel wobble I had at 50mph plus is gone now (that could be coupled with the new suspension too).
 

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I just changed my oil. My rigs got 240,xxx on it and I went with Castro GTX high mileage oil. I have no idea whether it's needed or not but it was cheap. I've also got a can of Blue Devil oil leak going in to try and slow down my rear main leak. So I have no idea if the high mileage stuff will do any good but this was the perfect opportunity to ***** some more about that rear main. :dammit:



I have try the blue devil for my head gasket leak and it work for me and i also have used on power steering and it also work so i think is going to work for you! Good luck!


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did a little more work on my rear drawers/sleeping platform. picked up a couple more sticks of square tubing, and found the tie downs and hooks im going to use. put in an order at a metal shop down the road to cut me a couple sheets of 20ga steel to use on the sides and top.





im going to run a sheet of 36" x36" 20ga steel over the top of it, and run a few small welds around the outside of it. the extra surface area will allow me to use construction glue to secure a sheet of 3/4" or 1/2" plywood on top for strength. it will be covered in cheap outdoor carpet. going to run 20ga steel over the sides as well.

the forward piece is a little more tricky. i dont want to run a piano hinge, so the plan is to make a forward piece that has rear(towards the front seats) legs to support it. it will be 2" wider, so i can attach side supports to it. the front piece will just slide over the drawers when not in use.
 
Oil change and rear differential fluid change using 80/90 weight.

I've got 218,500-ish miles and I'm still use standard weight oil. Do you guys use a high mileage formulation oil at that mileage?

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just hit 225,000 miles in my '99 this week. i use mobil 1 full synth high mileage
 
Bad idea.

Why? Have you used it? It's a stop gap effort to buy me some time before I need to pull the tranny. It's not like Lucas or any other leak sealer that I've seen. If it works great. If it doesn't I'll get dirty sooner rather than later. Seems like a perfectly logical idea to me.
 
Why? Have you used it? It's a stop gap effort to buy me some time before I need to pull the tranny. It's not like Lucas or any other leak sealer that I've seen. If it works great. If it doesn't I'll get dirty sooner rather than later. Seems like a perfectly logical idea to me.
My sister used it in a Buick 3.8L. Sure it may work for a little while as a stop gap measure, but so would topping off your oil. Then you don't have to deal with that crap in your system, and any unintentional clogs it may cause.

I personally have no idea how small engine passages in the 3.4 are, but that seems like more risk than I wasn't for a stop gap measure.

To each their own. I also wouldn't buy any vehicle with any evidence of any stop leak in it.

Do it right, do it once.
 
My sister used it in a Buick 3.8L. Sure it may work for a little while as a stop gap measure, but so would topping off your oil. Then you don't have to deal with that crap in your system, and any unintentional clogs it may cause.

I personally have no idea how small engine passages in the 3.4 are, but that seems like more risk than I wasn't for a stop gap measure.

To each their own. I also wouldn't buy any vehicle with any evidence of any stop leak in it.

Do it right, do it once.

Fair enough man. I am not usually the type to add any stop leaks to my rigs. The only thing I've ever added was some Alumi-Seal to the rad on my 88 Toyo van when it had an 1/8 round hole in it. That product was recommended to me by a mechanic friend. It not only sealed the leak but it's still in the cooling system 50,000 miles later with zero issues. That same buddy told me to try this stuff. I did a lot of research about the product before putting it in. I found a lot of "it worked" and very, very few "it blew up my car posts". For 15 bucks it's worth a shot. I'll keep you posted on my experience with it.
 
Fair enough man. I am not usually the type to add any stop leaks to my rigs. The only thing I've ever added was some Alumi-Seal to the rad on my 88 Toyo van when it had an 1/8 round hole in it. That product was recommended to me by a mechanic friend. It not only sealed the leak but it's still in the cooling system 50,000 miles later with zero issues. That same buddy told me to try this stuff. I did a lot of research about the product before putting it in. I found a lot of "it worked" and very, very few "it blew up my car posts". For 15 bucks it's worth a shot. I'll keep you posted on my experience with it.

I'd first try using a high mileage oil such as Maxlife Semi Synthetic. I have seen people use Blue Devil, Red Angel, and the rest of their line with some immediate success but not much good over the long term. Good luck though with it..:thumb3:
 
did a little more work on my rear drawers/sleeping platform. picked up a couple more sticks of square tubing, and found the tie downs and hooks im going to use. put in an order at a metal shop down the road to cut me a couple sheets of 20ga steel to use on the sides and top.











im going to run a sheet of 36" x36" 20ga steel over the top of it, and run a few small welds around the outside of it. the extra surface area will allow me to use construction glue to secure a sheet of 3/4" or 1/2" plywood on top for strength. it will be covered in cheap outdoor carpet. going to run 20ga steel over the sides as well.



the forward piece is a little more tricky. i dont want to run a piano hinge, so the plan is to make a forward piece that has rear(towards the front seats) legs to support it. it will be 2" wider, so i can attach side supports to it. the front piece will just slide over the drawers when not in use.



Any idea what the weight difference between your style frame and wood of same size? Been looking at doing a cargo box after the tbu is done on mine.


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