What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[Shizzaw]

What's the name of this color? Mine is the same color and this is the first time I've seen a picture of one like it. I've been told it wasn't a factory color but I don't think that's the case.

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I believe that color is called Azure Blue Pearl (Paint Code 8L6). It was only offered on 96, 97, and 98 models. Mine is the same color but I'm in Japan (mine is a Hilux Surf) and mine's 2-tone. I don't think they made my color combo in the US. Mine is the only one I've seen this color in person.

 

[Shizzaw]

Habanero beat me to it....

 

[Mark_BC]

I think I saw one of those the other week here

Toyota 4Runner Touchup Paint Codes, Image Galleries, Brochure and TV Commercial Archives

 

[kolelt]

Kind of what I thought too. I had never used one before so I started by checking out a youtube video or two. It seemed to go faster for them in the video. I guess I would need to do a side by side with a control group to see what times I am working with. I just figured that it would be faster. Now, how much faster, I don't know. There are a few "real time" air downs on youtube and they seemed to knock it out faster that I did, but hey...

I guess to be fair, it is an "E-Z Deflator" and not a "Speed Deflator"

p.s.

I just got done falling asleep on the "D" key, for about a page worth of "D" streaming down the page... I stared my day off at 0130 today. I am usually going to bed at 0200 or thereabouts. I think it is time for a nap. lol.

I did to check their video. They seemed to deflate the tire at a much faster rate. When I mean slow, I mean I could deflate the tire faster with pushing on the valve manually lol.

 

[octanejunkie]

I did to check their video. They seemed to deflate the tire at a much faster rate. When I mean slow, I mean I could deflate the tire faster with pushing on the valve manually lol.

Other than taking the valve out of the stem, how much faster can you deflate a tire?

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[kolelt]

Other than taking the valve out of the stem, how much faster can you deflate a tire?

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That's what the tool is intended to do. Remove the valve but with out you losing it. It's unscrews it, lifts it up. But for some reason to me, it doesn't seem to work properly

 

[WenatcheeSkier]

Thanks! Its my own I cobbled together by using an Xbox kinect sensor. Its pretty low resolution but helps to make sure there are no major interferences between the part that is being designed and the truck.

Ive read your thread on the snorkel design and was blown away on how you measured and modelled that fender / a pillar.

I would love to share my bumper build on here but I guess I have to get my post count up first. :Cry:

Parts came in from the metal shop. Big steal jigsaw puzzle

get that post count up. I'd love to see it.

 

[coreyemmons]

Brought it home!

I just bought this truck last week from California and drove it to its new home in northern NJ.

It has some clearcoat issues on the bumpers, flares, and grille, so my first job is probably going to be using a roll on bedliner to just repaint them. The next job will be doing something to the underside to prevent rust for the coming winter.

 

[AntleredRuin]

I made the most ghetto phone mount ever. I made it from some scrap sheet metal and old hard drive magnets. I have dozens of them lying around (I work in IT).
Kicking myself for not doing this 2 years ago. I will eventually paint it to make it prettier.

I have a piece of sheet metal behind the phone trapped in the case.

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[psraff]

I just bought this truck last week from California and drove it to its new home in northern NJ.

It has some clearcoat issues on the bumpers, flares, and grille, so my first job is probably going to be using a roll on bedliner to just repaint them. The next job will be doing something to the underside to prevent rust for the coming winter.

Drove from CA all to way across country to NJ in a "new to you" vehicle? Damn.... I'd be a nervous wreck! LOL. Don't get me wrong, I'm not slamming you one bit!!! Actually giving you some kuddos.

I'm planning to drive my kid and her '09 Wrangler from Alaska to Washington in a few months. Long trip, with lots of open empty spaces. And driving 40+ hrs with an 18 year old daughter will age me 10 years I'm sure....

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[phattyduck]

Finally. Changed the t stat and sure enough the jiggle valve was clocked at the 12 o'clock position instead of at the 6 o'clock position. Changed upper and lower rad hoses while I was there. Went from running 206 engine coolant temp avg to 186

Yet there will STILL be guys who think it doesn't matter. :twitch:

-Charlie

 

[WenatcheeSkier]

I made the most ghetto phone mount ever. I made it from some scrap sheet metal and old hard drive magnets. I have dozens of them lying around (I work in IT).
Kicking myself for not doing this 2 years ago. I will eventually paint it to make it prettier.

I have a piece of sheet metal behind the phone trapped in the case.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

gotta ask, what's the app on the phone?

 

[phattyduck]

Hopefully all 6 come out this nice in my roof!!

Use one of those washers on each rivnut on the roof for extra pull-out strength. They are awesome for mounting stuff around the engine bay, etc. too. I have used them for lots of stuff on my motor swaps.

I just use a plate that I can hold to separate the turning forces of the upper bolt from the rivnut. Tighten the bolt by hand and you can feel the rivnut bottom out. No need for the impact gun, unless you need it to get the compression started.

-Charlie

 

[AntleredRuin]

gotta ask, what's the app on the phone?

Torque Pro

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[JohnMc]

I've had the rear bumper on for a while, finally got a front bumper to match. 4X Innovations.

So far the plan is to just use our Warn receiver cradle winch, it's wired front and rear with quick connects for that. Might think about mounting it in the bumper at some point.

Also, replaced the stock foglights with some Rigid Dually D2 lights.

Still to do: move the CB antenna from the back hatch area up to the bumper. Supposedly they work a lot better there, and hit a lot fewer branches.

 

[Road Bull]

Other than taking the valve out of the stem, how much faster can you deflate a tire?

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There seems to be a disparity between HOW well it (fast) it works. I mean, it is what it is. But the visions on the enterwebs highlight how fast it works.

That's what the tool is intended to do. Remove the valve but with out you losing it. It's unscrews it, lifts it up. But for some reason to me, it doesn't seem to work properly

I suppose the main point is the retention of the valve core, and ability to easily check tire pressure during pauses in deflation. People considering picking one up should note that the pressure reading is not accurate when you are actively deflating the tire.

Overall, I feel that it is made well, but fast deflator, not so much. If you are considering picking one up I would try it out in the parking lot before you purchase if the store is cool enough to let you do that.

 

[Mark_BC]

Use one of those washers on each rivnut on the roof for extra pull-out strength.
-Charlie

You mean on top of the roof? The issue is I will use an OEM rack and even the extra height from the rivnut may cause some issues with flush mounting the rack, an extra washer I think will stick out too far. Unless I can put it on the inside of the roof, maybe I can pull off the upper trim to get it in there?

 

[JohnMc]

There seems to be a disparity between HOW well it (fast) it works. I mean, it is what it is. But the visions on the enterwebs highlight how fast it works.



I suppose the main point is the retention of the valve core, and ability to easily check tire pressure during pauses in deflation. People considering picking one up should note that the pressure reading is not accurate when you are actively deflating the tire.

Overall, I feel that it is made well, but fast deflator, not so much. If you are considering picking one up I would try it out in the parking lot before you purchase if the store is cool enough to let you do that.

I suspect you're just loosening the valve core, instead of removing it all the way.

I have one of those, it really blasts out the air. You just have to make sure that you've unscrewed the valve core all the way before you pull the slide back and start dumping air. You can't see anything, so you have to do it by feel.

Screw the middle piece onto the stem. Then use the knob to (blindly) feel for engagement on the valve core. Once you feel the slot slide onto the core, unscrew the valve core until it is completely out of the stem. As the core starts to come out, it will start releasing air slowly. Once the core is all the way out, it really blasts air out.

Then after you've used it a few times, you'll sort of learn by feel/sound when the pressure is getting low enough for wheeling, slide the valve back and forth to check pressure/dump more air. When you're at the right pressure, leave the slide in and use the knob to reinstall the valve stem. This is another potentially fiddly moment done blind and by feel, but I've never had any issues. You just have to gently push the valve stem in using the knob, get the threads to engage, then screw it all the way in. Then you take it off.

It really does take a minute or so start to finish to dump air from 40 psi down to 15 once the valve core is all the way out.

 

[Road Bull]

I suspect you're just loosening the valve core, instead of removing it all the way.

I have one of those, it really blasts out the air. You just have to make sure that you've unscrewed the valve core all the way before you pull the slide back and start dumping air. You can't see anything, so you have to do it by feel.

Screw the middle piece onto the stem. Then use the knob to (blindly) feel for engagement on the valve core. Once you feel the slot slide onto the core, unscrew the valve core until it is completely out of the stem. As the core starts to come out, it will start releasing air slowly. Once the core is all the way out, it really blasts air out.

Then after you've used it a few times, you'll sort of learn by feel/sound when the pressure is getting low enough for wheeling, slide the valve back and forth to check pressure/dump more air. When you're at the right pressure, leave the slide in and use the knob to reinstall the valve stem. This is another potentially fiddly moment done blind and by feel, but I've never had any issues. You just have to gently push the valve stem in using the knob, get the threads to engage, then screw it all the way in. Then you take it off.

It really does take a minute or so start to finish to dump air from 40 psi down to 15 once the valve core is all the way out.

Hrrrrm... interesting. They said on videos that you know you have disengaged the valve core when the rear piston slides to the rear.

I did this, the piston extended, but it just wasn't that fast. I will play some more with it.

 

[JohnMc]

Hrrrrm... interesting. They said on videos that you know you have disengaged the valve core when the rear piston slides to the rear.

I did this, the piston extended, but it just wasn't that fast. I will play some more with it.

Once air starts to leak past the valve, the pressure will tend to push the knob out. Once you get the core all the way out, it pushes a bit harder.

It's pretty subtle, but when you're unscrewing the valve core try to feel that slight 'click' when the end of the threads on the core drops past the end of the threads on the stem. Then the core is all the way unscrewed, and you can start dumping air.