OffroadTwin
New member
Replaced the gasket on top my t-case with some permatex ultra grey gasket maker. It was leaking from there so I'll see how this works when I fire her up.
investigated why my power window doesn't work. seems to have power to motor,but replacement motor doesnt work either.
what am i doing wrong?

investigated why my power window doesn't work. seems to have power to motor,but replacement motor doesnt work either.
what am i doing wrong?
If anyone is in the fence about getting a horn upgrade, I can't recommend taking a look at these strongly enough. It's a good piece of safety equipment.
I was just busting you balls man. I'm all about hard numbers as well. I tried so many PID combos on Torque Pro to get trans temp. From using others numbers to working out my own. Literally hours of attempts. Nothing worked for the old 97. So I figured the next best thing was an aftermarket gauge. I wanted to add the trans cooler anyway so now was the time.
There's some pics in this post and I'll put up some more once I get rid of the POS Glow Shift and get the Auto Meter gauge and pillar mount in.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2749514-post21929.html
Know anyone with a Scangauge or Ultragauge or Torque Android App? Still using the original fan clutch or did you switch over to an electric fan?
I'd be curious to know if the thermostat even opens up. A three core may be overkill but could work well for those who go offroad in the desert.
Am I crazy? I feel like the OEM horn is so loud.
I have a 2007 civic and I can barely hear the horn compared to my 4runner.
[MENTION=84643]JBurt[/MENTION] [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] Very scientific polaris prize winning test on my new all aluminum radiator.
[MENTION=84643]JBurt[/MENTION] [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] Very scientific polaris prize winning test on my new all aluminum radiator. For all its worth, a 30'F difference across the radiator is excellent. I think this means my engine is running very cool.
Running normal clutch fan
Ambient temp - about 88'F after driving 30 mins
temp at idle = 130'F @lower feed hose, 180'F at upper return hose
temp at 2500 rpm = 138'F @lower feed hose, 172'F upper return
[MENTION=84643]JBurt[/MENTION] [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] Very scientific polaris prize winning test on my new all aluminum radiator. For all its worth, a 30'F difference across the radiator is excellent. I think this means my engine is running very cool.
Running normal clutch fan
Ambient temp - about 88'F after driving 30 mins
temp at idle = 130'F @lower feed hose, 180'F at upper return hose
temp at 2500 rpm = 138'F @lower feed hose, 172'F upper return
Hey, I'm pretty new to this forum and still trying to figure it out as it's a little different than what I'm used to
Today I installed an amp (last week I put in a new head unit and speakers). The reason I installed the amp is the guy who had it before me royally messed up the speakers/wiring and it seemed like a better solution. When I tried to start it up after the install it acts like the battery is dead. The head unit still turns on but the power light on the amp has never come on. The dash displays all the check engine lights/battery/etc. and it beeps and flashes the outside lights for a while.
I'm going to try a new battery tomorrow. Does anyone else have any suggestions?