What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Having never used Moog parts on my 3rd gen but on other cars and trucks in the last 25 years I can tell you that prior to Federal Mogul's ownership of Moog their product was great. Now it is a crap shoot, with their ball joints lasting years to no more than a month from what I have seen overall in the last five years.
 
What is your center of axle to wheel well measurement in the back with the spare mounted up? Looking at switching springs and still can't decide between the 861 and Superflex springs after 4 hours of reading last night.

I'm waiting on some lugs to get here so I can mount the spare. Without the spare it's 25.25 from center to sr5 flares. The springs have less then 50 miles on them currently so I'd expect them to settle a bit. Once I get the hi-lift, rotopax, and spare on full time I'm hoping to be in the 24.5 range. I'll give you more info in a few days.
 
My 3rd gen found its long lost twin.

QJWaLRq.jpg
 
I saw that picture and instinctual first impressions was man those wheels look good. Then I saw they are Level 8, maybe I should pick up a set. What offset is good for 3rd gens? I will put on 265/70 R17. Maybe an inch or 2 or lift

Whoops, just saw this. I went with the -10 offset in their 16x8 size but you can get a 0 offset as well.
 
I've had moogs in my 05 f250 for 100k miles and it's lifted on 35s 20x12s 6 years and going strong
Also have had moogs in my 94 explorer lifted 6in on 15x10s and 33s and I beat the crap out of this truck have had the ball joints in there since I lifted it 3 years ago
My cousin has had his in his 98 taco for 2 years he is also toytec lifted on 32s
And ford twin I beam is famous for blowing out ball joints as your camber/caster adjustment is directly on the upper ball joint
I'm not trying to sell anyone anything or bad mouth OE ball joints or persuade anyone one way or the other.
I'm just sharing my thoughts and experiences.
But like I said I have a lot of experience with other parts/brands and these have yet to let me down
In any rig.

FOR WHAT IT IS WORTH...................
I installed Moog LBJ and OTRE in October of 16' They were completely worn out in 5,000 miles. FIVE THOUSAND miles. All on road driving in the south with no salt. Greased after install as well. My stock LBJ i replaced at 360,000 miles had less play than the Moog after 5,000. The hardline opinion on using OEM suspension stuff is for good reason.
 
Do you just use an Xacto knife when you're done to cut it all out? I don't see where you taped each letter..

I just sprayed the whole emblem and carefully peeled out the spaces in the lettering. I used a toothpick to get it started. I don't trust myself with an Xacto knife near paint. Lol.
 
Installed a remanufactured Denso alternator only to have to remove it.

POS was only charging 13.3 volts right out of The box. Wont be buying one of those again.

Putting my old cs144 back in until I can find a decent replacement.

Anyone find a good replacement alternator for these things?
 
Also got new windshield installed. Went with bronze and no tint across the top, so much better without the tint strip at the top, got visers for that.

Old one was pitted and cracked, like driving in high def now.
 
Installed a remanufactured Denso alternator only to have to remove it.

POS was only charging 13.3 volts right out of The box. Wont be buying one of those again.

Putting my old cs144 back in until I can find a decent replacement.

Anyone find a good replacement alternator for these things?

Is it hot where you are? Don't alternators down-regulate voltage as ambient temps increase? Seems I read that somewhere. I know my non-Denso alternator will hit 14.2v when it's cold and sometimes will dip to 13.3~v when it's hot.
 
Today was a good day. Painted the Savage bumper and swingouts. Knocked out the SS rear body mounts. Removed my old Toytec 3" springs and installed the ARB 861's. Mounted the Savage bumper. Mounted both swing arms.

What can I say about painting? It sucks. The whole time I'm thinking of things that are worse just to keep my mind occupied. I couldn't come up with much. lol

[MENTION=119532]Road Bull[/MENTION] With the rear bumper off those top bolts for the body mounts where super easy. Don't know why I even bothered to try with the bumper still on a few weeks ago.

[MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] I tried your way for the springs on the drivers side. Then I used the traditional way on the passenger side. I timed both from start to finish and tried to be as non-bias as possible. Getting the compressors to fit is a huge PIA. It's like a jinga puzzle. I managed. Got them out and wriggled the 861's in. BTW, your way with compressors 58 minutes. The old way of removing tire, removing shock bolt, removing upper rear control arm bolt was way faster at 36 minutes. I'll stick with my way but thanks for the tip.

Savages bumper installed with zero issues. It was kind of a PIA to do solo but I can be stubborn like that. I hate to ask for help. All bolts where there in the correct count, everything lined up with zero hammering, and it looks bad ass. One of the easiest after market installs I've done, so thanks Savage.

I need to order the rotopax mounts and a few other lugs so I can actually mount the wheel. I also need to finish putting the plate holder on and mounting the struts. Then fine tune the swingout helms but that's an hour at most.

Overall I'm stoked to have this completed. Especially that damn painting, lol

I like painting, throw some Overkill in the boombox & start thrashing! But yea, I'd never use the spring compressor for an install.
 
Installed some OME 906 rear coils last weekend (already had rear Bilstein 5100s installed) and they look and feel great. I have a 1500+ mile trip to Glacier National Park coming up in less than a week so I need to finish the job up this weekend and install:
- New struts (already assembled them, Bilstein 5100 + OME 880 + KYB tophats)
- New OEM LBJs
- New front sway bar bushings

Would the front strut install be an easier if I do it after I remove the old LBJ, but before I install the new LBJ? I've read the FSM and watched a bunch of videos, but I'm still confused about what is resisting you when putting in the new strut (hence, why people used their bottle jack to push down on the UCA).
 
Would the front strut install be an easier if I do it after I remove the old LBJ, but before I install the new LBJ? I've read the FSM and watched a bunch of videos, but I'm still confused about what is resisting you when putting in the new strut (hence, why people used their bottle jack to push down on the UCA).
Crack loose the upper a-arm pivot bolt and the lower a-arm adjuster bolts. You should be able to get things in and out easily at that point. Re-tighten at the new ride height.

If you can't get the shocks in there with the upper and lower pivots loose, you are binding your ball joints at full extension of the suspension...

Having the lower ball joint out should also help the install, but isn't necessary to do at the same time.

-Charlie
 
I just installed a fire extinguisher (Amerex class A,B,C) on a bracket mounted to the front passenger seat. Good thing done!
 
This happened today: Küat Sherpa 2.0. These racks are SUPERB!! This is not your granddad's bike rack. Solidly built. Solidly. Absolutely zero play in any of the pivots. I got tired of loading my muddy mountain bike in the back 4 times a week, and then unloading it when I got home. It didn't stop me from riding, I just stopped unloading it every time.

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mindomission-albums--99+limited-picture47361-k%FC-sherpa-2-0-2-spot-rack.jpeg
 
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Got eimkeith's panhard kit welded up. Got a few pics from my welder. Can't wait to go pick it up and see how it drives!
 

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