bennett707
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always premium.
layball:two half tanks i suppose out camping of 87 but diluted w/ tank and octane boost
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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always premium.
layball:two half tanks i suppose out camping of 87 but diluted w/ tank and octane boost
coreyemmons
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Against the popular opinion of this board, I actually put running boards back on my truck, more for the girlfriend than anything else. Just a temporary solution until I can afford rock sliders.
A.Wilson013
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Have you seen anything like that before from a 5vz, Caesar? What could even cause that...?
loafer
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now that the new wheels and tires are on I have been tackling the corrosion on the stock rims. After 17 years on the road they needed a little help. I used a angle grinder and a sandblaster from harbor freight. I just sand blast on the back side. and mostly scochbrite pads on the front so now i just have to sand out the back side of three more and the priming is done. i am going to use a copper metalic plasti dip on the fronts and some black enamel on the back side.
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LittleCaesar
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Too much stress on the lower end would be my guess. No, never really seen something like that. It would be wrong to speculate on such without seeing it up close.
I wonder though if the problem was there before the head change. I have seen where heads have been changed and then a crack shows up in the block down the road, usually sooner than later if there had been a problem in the lower end.
Desertwind16v
New member
Brought home a set of Trail/TRD off-road wheels. Take offs on a truck with 100 miles so they're perfect. I installed the new wheels (he bought the Pro wheels) so I was extra careful with these, then purchased them myself from my parts department.
Sorry no pics, I have yet to pick a hosting site after the Photobucket B.S.
Sorry no pics, I have yet to pick a hosting site after the Photobucket B.S.
giguchan
Senior Member
Bought me a pair of new Rigid 4" to replace my Piaa 410's.Getting real tired of Condensation building up in a sealed system and changing out bulbs all the time..... The Bar will be next... Install this weekend(when the security hardware comes in)
So Technically i didn't do ANYthing to my 3 G today..
So Technically i didn't do ANYthing to my 3 G today..
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02_SE_Runner_DAD
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Shame on me, I have not done much to it lately:redface:
GTEE1997
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Cleaned the MAF:
Use a adjustable torque drill to extract the screws, and don't bother disconnecting the MAF from the harness.
Changed the spark plugs and plug wires. This was a small nightmare with all the crap you have to move out of the way to get to the plugs. Also, the black metal bracket over the plug closest to the driver was itself an unexpected problem. I disconnected the bracket top bolt and loosened the bolt on the bottom to rotate it out of the way, but when I tried to reconnect the top bolt, the bracket-to-engine bolt holes would not align. The top bolt was being forced to engage on a cross-threading upward angle. I ended up removing the bracket and drilling (to expand) the top bolt hole with the side of a drill bit on the top of the bracket bolt hole such that the bolt could go back in straight. (Nevermind the difficulty reaching the lower bolt, dropping it into the skid plate, having to remove a wheel to find it, etc.)
Flushed the engine oil again.
Use a adjustable torque drill to extract the screws, and don't bother disconnecting the MAF from the harness.
Changed the spark plugs and plug wires. This was a small nightmare with all the crap you have to move out of the way to get to the plugs. Also, the black metal bracket over the plug closest to the driver was itself an unexpected problem. I disconnected the bracket top bolt and loosened the bolt on the bottom to rotate it out of the way, but when I tried to reconnect the top bolt, the bracket-to-engine bolt holes would not align. The top bolt was being forced to engage on a cross-threading upward angle. I ended up removing the bracket and drilling (to expand) the top bolt hole with the side of a drill bit on the top of the bracket bolt hole such that the bolt could go back in straight. (Nevermind the difficulty reaching the lower bolt, dropping it into the skid plate, having to remove a wheel to find it, etc.)
Flushed the engine oil again.
Alternator Replaceed/Upgraded
Wednesday the 4R died on my wife while running errands. When I got to it the battery was near dead. It had a whine recently and I suspected the alternator pulley but hadn't gotten to it yet. Jumped & charged for 20m from another car and managed to get it home, but if I turned on the headlights it would sputter. Drove home in the dark without lights for a couple miles. Sounds like alternator.
Found Doc2012's info on upgrading to a Cadillac alternator and bought one for $115 from Autozone. Also got a power steering belt in case I had to swap to a bigger belt, but hoped not to.
Charged the battery overnight and tested with a voltmeter today: 12.7v on the battery, 12.4v while running, no extra load, 1500rpm. No voltage drop from battery to alt. Verified at O'Reilly: bad alternator.
Followed Doc's instructions and it was fairly easy. I used a screwdriver to lever the existing belt onto the new pulley, so I didn't have to swap belts. Tested after the swap and was getting 15.4v with load at 1500rpms. This should give me 140 peak amps now instead of 70, in case I ever want to add lights/amps/fridge/whatever. I'll take it to O'Reilly to verify again later, but Michigan's beating Florida (GO BLUE!), and the test can wait.
Wednesday the 4R died on my wife while running errands. When I got to it the battery was near dead. It had a whine recently and I suspected the alternator pulley but hadn't gotten to it yet. Jumped & charged for 20m from another car and managed to get it home, but if I turned on the headlights it would sputter. Drove home in the dark without lights for a couple miles. Sounds like alternator.
Found Doc2012's info on upgrading to a Cadillac alternator and bought one for $115 from Autozone. Also got a power steering belt in case I had to swap to a bigger belt, but hoped not to.
Charged the battery overnight and tested with a voltmeter today: 12.7v on the battery, 12.4v while running, no extra load, 1500rpm. No voltage drop from battery to alt. Verified at O'Reilly: bad alternator.
Followed Doc's instructions and it was fairly easy. I used a screwdriver to lever the existing belt onto the new pulley, so I didn't have to swap belts. Tested after the swap and was getting 15.4v with load at 1500rpms. This should give me 140 peak amps now instead of 70, in case I ever want to add lights/amps/fridge/whatever. I'll take it to O'Reilly to verify again later, but Michigan's beating Florida (GO BLUE!), and the test can wait.
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99problems
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Well let's hope the 4th quarter looks more like the 2nd. :boxing:
Edit: 33-17 Final. :sad:
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