What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Replaced the right rear brake line, bled a liter fluid through the system using the motive power bleeder at 15psi. Brakes are still spongy. Had the "T" fitting capped for a few days before replacing the line and the brakes felt noticeably better oddly enough. Replaced master cylinder a week ago. Drums are adjusted to slight drag, pedal is solid when engine off, sinks when engine on. quadruple checked for leaks. Brakes still stop the vehicle like they always have just not as great as I would hope. Thoughts on just capping the rear brake line at the master cylinder? I suppose it comes down to 4 mediocre brakes vs 2 strong front brakes. I still think there might be air in the ABS and I cycled it a month ago periodically for a week and did several bleeding procedures to no avail and then my front left sensor died.
 
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JBurt said:
Or you can use the rear glass struts from a hundred series Landcruiser and some rivets. It's not bolt on, it requires drilling two holes. Works great for about 20 bucks.
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That's an interesting idea - can you provide a bit more detail on the mounts? Are they ball mounts? And where do the rivets go?
 
ZionXIX said:
Replaced the right rear brake line, bled a liter fluid through the system using the motive power bleeder at 15psi. Brakes are still spongy. Had the "T" fitting capped for a few days before replacing the line and the brakes felt noticeably better oddly enough. Replaced master cylinder a week ago. Drums are adjusted to slight drag, pedal is solid when engine off, sinks when engine on. quadruple checked for leaks. Brakes still stop the vehicle like they always have just not as great as I would hope. Thoughts on just capping the rear brake line at the master cylinder? I suppose it comes down to 4 mediocre brakes vs 2 strong front brakes. I still think there might be air in the ABS and I cycled it a month ago periodically for a week and did several bleeding procedures to no avail and then my front left sensor died.
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I would never cap a line and just have 2 brakes. It is illegal and if you’re involved in an accident you would be taking more liability. I’d still be checking your system. I had a liter hooked up to my my master and just left the bleeders open for 6-7 hours. Then fine tuned it and had no issues.
 
MN4runnerman, for whatever reason the quote button is not working for me.

So what about bypassing the rear ABS? On my 96 there are only 2 connection for the rear brakes. One in and one out. Could I just couple those together? Its really no different that pulling the ABS fuse/relay that many of us do and I have the advantage of being in a place where the speed limit is 20mph in town and 40mph outside of town. Ive heard that sometimes the brake fittings for the ABS module are Bubble style flares instead of inverted flare, is that true?
 
I discovered why my windshield washer fluid was bone dry. I filled up the reservoir and saw a nice blue stream coming from under the front tire. Looks like I'm going to need a new reservoir. Any recommendations on used or new? What's the part number?
 
HappyHooligan said:
I discovered why my windshield washer fluid was bone dry. I filled up the reservoir and saw a nice blue stream coming from under the front tire. Looks like I'm going to need a new reservoir. Any recommendations on used or new? What's the part number?
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It could just be the grommets that the pumps go into to. Pull the box. Put it on a bench. Cap the pump lines. Fill it back up and verify where it's leaking first.
 
B_Pilgrim said:
That looks sweet, nice work! Do you have a professional ceramic coating shop? I've had pistols cerakoted before, curious what wheels would cost.
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No shop. Just a detailing hobbyist working from my garage =). Not sure what it'd cost but i bought the 50ml CQUK kit for $80. This was my first time working with ceramic and it wasn't too bad. The only part that scares me is making sure you have a scratch free panel and that you have enough application time.


Ill be doing my whole truck in the summer and I'm not looking forward to correcting each panel. :Cry:
 
ZionXIX said:
MN4runnerman, for whatever reason the quote button is not working for me.

So what about bypassing the rear ABS? On my 96 there are only 2 connection for the rear brakes. One in and one out. Could I just couple those together? Its really no different that pulling the ABS fuse/relay that many of us do and I have the advantage of being in a place where the speed limit is 20mph in town and 40mph outside of town. Ive heard that sometimes the brake fittings for the ABS module are Bubble style flares instead of inverted flare, is that true?
Click to expand...

Not sure what you mean? You have a single flex line coming down from the frame that has a tee going to each wheel cylinder. I mean you could disconnect the abs sensors but I’d rather pull the fuse. Is your vehicle rusty at all? I know your in a much better climate than I am but salt spray does it too. Are you sure any of the hard lines aren’t leaking? I had a leak above the rear drivers side shock mount where it runs up there. Or maybe one of the fittings isn’t tight or it’s an SAE double flare instead of a metric double flare? How was your day?
 
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MN4runnerman said:
Not sure what you mean? You have a single flex line coming down from the frame that has a tee going to each wheel cylinder. I mean you could disconnect the abs sensors but I’d rather pull the fuse. Is your vehicle rusty at all? I know your in a much better climate than I am but salt spray does it too. Are you sure any of the hard lines aren’t leaking? I had a leak above the rear drivers side shock mount where it runs up there. Or maybe one of the fittings isn’t tight or it’s an SAE double flare instead of a metric double flare? How was your day?
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I have checked and checked and checked again after a long drive today with lots of braking. I cant find any leaking. The fittings are bone dry.

So according to the brake line diagram, the master cylinder has a dedicated line for the front brakes and a separate line for the rear brakes. The rear brake line starts at the master cylinder, goes to the ABS block, then a single line for the rear brakes comes from the ABS block. One line in and one line out for the rear ABS. If I were to disconnect those two lines and simply couple them with a short hose or a custom short hard line, the ABS would no longer be an issue in the rear brakes. Its just damn near impossible to get the air out of the ABS. I cannot speak to the flaring of the replacement line, but I can verify that is doesn't leak.
 
ZionXIX said:
I have checked and checked and checked again after a long drive today with lots of braking. I cant find any leaking. The fittings are bone dry.

So according to the brake line diagram, the master cylinder has a dedicated line for the front brakes and a separate line for the rear brakes. The rear brake line starts at the master cylinder, goes to the ABS block, then a single line for the rear brakes comes from the ABS block. One line in and one line out for the rear ABS. If I were to disconnect those two lines and simply couple them with a short hose or a custom short hard line, the ABS would no longer be an issue in the rear brakes. Its just damn near impossible to get the air out of the ABS. I cannot speak to the flaring of the replacement line, but I can verify that is doesn't leak.
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Ah I see what you mean now. I was thinking brake lines by the rear axle. I won’t recommend doing that but it would probably fix your issue. Did you replace the abs module and that’s why you’re having issues? Did you bench bleed it?
 
Rear end upgrades nearly complete

Swapped in a pair of OEM LC black tokiko shocks for the 5125 billies i originally put in when i did the lift 3 years ago.
Love the way it rides now. The Tokikos match the LX 450 8.75 wrap springs much better than the billies.

Now all that's left to do on the rear end is the braided steel brake line which i will do when i do the TBU at the end of May. And to wirewheel the surface rust and repaint and i will officially call the rear end mods complete.
 
MN4runnerman said:
Ah I see what you mean now. I was thinking brake lines by the rear axle. I won’t recommend doing that but it would probably fix your issue. Did you replace the abs module and that’s why you’re having issues? Did you bench bleed it?
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The ABS module functions fine but my left front sensor died a month after I replaced the right sensor. I wont be getting another one since Im leaving permanently in 2 weeks (not enough time to ship someone from the states and clear customs). I dont know if the solenoids can be "Jumped" with 12v from the battery while I run the pressure bleeder, it would certainly be convenient. But during that 1 month where I had ABS working, I spent several days slamming the ABS in a dirt parking lot and bleeding after wards and they still didn't get any better.
 
Ahhhhh......now I can finally see........:lightsaber:
 

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