What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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squirrelchill
New member
First time 4runner owner
First post, hello world.
I just picked up a 1999 Limited last week. California car owned by an old lady, 220K miles. It's a 2wd but for the price and condition I couldn't pass it up. I'm stoked to get it back in prime shape and will probably make it a road trip camping car. I'm already planing on buying a 4wd in the future because I love it so much.
So far I know it needs a radiator, and I will probably do the at least the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and new tensioners and belts at the same time. TB hasn't been done since 90k based on a sticker on the block. Working on the 5vz-fe so far has been a freakin pleasure.
Any other advice for preventative maintenance?
First post, hello world.
I just picked up a 1999 Limited last week. California car owned by an old lady, 220K miles. It's a 2wd but for the price and condition I couldn't pass it up. I'm stoked to get it back in prime shape and will probably make it a road trip camping car. I'm already planing on buying a 4wd in the future because I love it so much.
So far I know it needs a radiator, and I will probably do the at least the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and new tensioners and belts at the same time. TB hasn't been done since 90k based on a sticker on the block. Working on the 5vz-fe so far has been a freakin pleasure.
Any other advice for preventative maintenance?
I used the factory hardware. Just thought it was a little strange that the flanges were thicker. Looked like on the transmission side, they were studs, not nuts n bolts. At least on mine they were. Either way, the new shaft got rid of my vibration at 65-70mph. Good luck enjoy the smooth ride.
JayRolla
New member
Me and my brother in his 4th gen and my 3rd started up the mountain pass. He texts me and says his new 35" treadwrights are making some loud noises. Come to find out he has a bubble the size of a volley ball on one tire and was so hot it was starting to melt. The tread was about to come apart by the time we made it back to his house.
We ended up going wheeling in my rig. Unfortunately it was so busy at the main obstacles I couldn't get any wheeling shots. Overall was a fun day of some good rock crawling.
We ended up going wheeling in my rig. Unfortunately it was so busy at the main obstacles I couldn't get any wheeling shots. Overall was a fun day of some good rock crawling.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Wheeled today out at Gorman, the place was basically empty and the weather was perfect.
The 112-620 springs up front performed really well over all terrain, including some pretty big/hard hits as well as high speed washboard and whoops - they rebounded really well and in conjunction with my rear LC 8-wraps, the truck felt and tracked great. Never bottomed and the RCI skid plates never touched anything.
The 112-620 springs up front performed really well over all terrain, including some pretty big/hard hits as well as high speed washboard and whoops - they rebounded really well and in conjunction with my rear LC 8-wraps, the truck felt and tracked great. Never bottomed and the RCI skid plates never touched anything.
kball
New member
Going to be in Ann Arbor for a few hours, then on to Chicago... made it from Los Angeles area to Roanoke VA in 3 days.
Twisted Sid
Member
Noticed on saturday that my radiator had a split on the top tank and was leaking. I dont know for sure but I think it was the original one from '99. It has the brown color tanks and I know my sister never changed it when she owned it before me from 120k to 260k. If so, it went 345,633 miles.
Also took the time to do a flush on the rest of the system.
Also took the time to do a flush on the rest of the system.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Saw this pic in 3G4R SoCal group on FB. Was that you posting about CO?
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nopnotme
New member
Sure was my man!
Mark_BC
Senior Member
You can get used ones pretty cheap, may be easier to just swap it out.
Removed sway bar and links, both links where shot/rusted so it was useless anyways (and making knocking noises when turning tight).
Gotta find/get new mounting brackets, I had to break out the sawsall to remove the drive-side... Bushings are gone too. The sway bar itself is not bad, will clean/repaint it in case I decide to re-install it.
Any reason why I should not leave it like this? I heard it gave better flex and could make the truck move around on highway but I didn't notice it (probably because it was shot anyways).
Gotta find/get new mounting brackets, I had to break out the sawsall to remove the drive-side... Bushings are gone too. The sway bar itself is not bad, will clean/repaint it in case I decide to re-install it.
Any reason why I should not leave it like this? I heard it gave better flex and could make the truck move around on highway but I didn't notice it (probably because it was shot anyways).
DavidH.
Member
I swapped my worn out OEM hatch struts for a set of StrongArm 6815s. What a difference! It now lifts strong and opens all the way even with the window rolled down. No more bashing my head!
I also finally got around to adding the Bluetooth mic for my Pioneer DEH-X7800BHS. I routed it through the gap between the gauge cluster and the cluster trim piece and clipped it dead center on the trim. It's working great and nobody has complained about road noise or me sounding quiet on the other end.
Last but not least, I installed my BH3D single cupholder. For the time being, I've opted to only use the 3M tape and not screw it into my console. It held strong all weekend with several styles of bottles and cups. I love it so far, I'll just have to see how it holds up through the summer heat. Thanks [MENTION=124475]bhicks22[/MENTION]!
I also finally got around to adding the Bluetooth mic for my Pioneer DEH-X7800BHS. I routed it through the gap between the gauge cluster and the cluster trim piece and clipped it dead center on the trim. It's working great and nobody has complained about road noise or me sounding quiet on the other end.
Last but not least, I installed my BH3D single cupholder. For the time being, I've opted to only use the 3M tape and not screw it into my console. It held strong all weekend with several styles of bottles and cups. I love it so far, I'll just have to see how it holds up through the summer heat. Thanks [MENTION=124475]bhicks22[/MENTION]!
rkntoy
New member
Unfortunately I don't think I am going to find too many used ones with a locker and 5.29 gears.
Mark_BC
Senior Member
You can drive around without the front, I have done this a lot, but I heard that the rear is more important. Haven't tried driving without the rear though.
JBurt
Senior Member
What? You can drive without the front diff? What do you do with your axles? Did you make a 2wd kit by cutting up some old axles?
You definitely can't drive without the rear diff. Your axle shafts would bounce around and mess things up. You can disconnect driveshafts and drive around fine though, either front or rear.
I've been getting a little noise out of the rear axle. Varies on engine torque (accel/coast/deccel).
So I took the rear driveshaft off. And the rear u-joint was a little notchy on one of the directions. Cardan joint was perfectly fluid and fine. So about 40 minutes of tapping/hammering/etc with a couple of sockets of different sized and replaced the u-joint.
Then I spun one of the wheels with the driveshaft off. There's still something going on in there. I don't think it's the wheel bearings, they were replaced only a year ago (5K miles?) and while it's possible they were damaged on installation (if the machine shop pushed on the outer race, for example) this sound seems to be coming from the differential. Possibly from the pinion bearings. No leaks, full of oil, no perceptible slack in the pinion bearings at all. But still, it's a grumbling sound when one wheel is spun.
I didn't want to mess with that right now, so I put the driveshaft back on. Drive it around, the stiff u-joint (brinelled bearing surfaces on the arms the diff side) was apparently making *some* of the noise. But some remains.
I got *SUPER* lucky a few months ago at a pick-n-pull and managed to snag a locker diff for super cheap. Plans are to look that over *very* carefully and decide on getting it rebuilt or not, then swapping it out and making my noisy one the 'emergency backup' diff.
So I took the rear driveshaft off. And the rear u-joint was a little notchy on one of the directions. Cardan joint was perfectly fluid and fine. So about 40 minutes of tapping/hammering/etc with a couple of sockets of different sized and replaced the u-joint.
Then I spun one of the wheels with the driveshaft off. There's still something going on in there. I don't think it's the wheel bearings, they were replaced only a year ago (5K miles?) and while it's possible they were damaged on installation (if the machine shop pushed on the outer race, for example) this sound seems to be coming from the differential. Possibly from the pinion bearings. No leaks, full of oil, no perceptible slack in the pinion bearings at all. But still, it's a grumbling sound when one wheel is spun.
I didn't want to mess with that right now, so I put the driveshaft back on. Drive it around, the stiff u-joint (brinelled bearing surfaces on the arms the diff side) was apparently making *some* of the noise. But some remains.
I got *SUPER* lucky a few months ago at a pick-n-pull and managed to snag a locker diff for super cheap. Plans are to look that over *very* carefully and decide on getting it rebuilt or not, then swapping it out and making my noisy one the 'emergency backup' diff.
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