What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Tack welded the slip joint on the steering shaft. Certainly a controversial modification but it really makes a significant difference.

I have replaced all ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, rack bushings, and installed the updated rack guide. Despite this, a few months of Michigan roads really beat the crap out of the joint. Was fine before moving here with ~105k on the truck. Has under 115k now.

Would make sure none of the above is causing play in your steering system before preforming this modification but damn is it effective!
 
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Coils and Struts

I assembled my new OME 881’s and KYB Gas-A-Just struts and installed them on my 2002 Sport Edition, 288,000 miles (all mine!) With 265 75 R16 tires ground to fender before was 35 1/2” and after is 36 5/8”. I had Monroe Quick Struts on it. I’m waiting for my rear anti sway kit to arrive from Wheeler’s before I install my OME 906’s in the back.
Coming up:
- Timing belt, drive belts, water pump, etc. I think I’m going to replace the front cam and crank shaft seals as well.
- Alternator rebuild (local guy - Dixon Mechanical Electric). Mine’s still original. I’m just doing a preemptive strike before it goes.
- Repaint hood scoop. The clear is peeling.
 

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Bought a set of Tundra/Sequoia wheels that have been sitting in the garage for the last 2 months. Just found out that they were stolen. Now I know to better secure my things. I live in an apartment complex btw
 
Bought a set of Tundra/Sequoia wheels that have been sitting in the garage for the last 2 months. Just found out that they were stolen. Now I know to better secure my things. I live in an apartment complex btw

That is unfortunate. SD is a beautiful city, but definitely there are some ghetto 'parts' of town. I just got back from ~1.5 weeks there.
 
Replaced OEM radio with a new headunit. Finally I can listen to music from my phone.

You know, I've had my truck for 9 months and I waited this long to do this (or anything else), kinda stupid in retrospect. But, as a poor student, I kinda told myself it could wait until I was working.
 
what about new front pads to go with the calipers?

How about new rotors to go with those new pads and calipers?

Not a good idea to mix brake components new and old

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Pads and rotors were replaced a month ago with the Powerstop kit even though the previous OEM rotor and pads the Powerstop kit replaced were less than 12 months. I was chasing down a front brake judder. Seems to have solved the issue as everything suspension-wise has been replaced with OEM parts within 5k miles. :cheers:
 
My '97 is finally broken in now.:clap2:

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Replaced OEM radio with a new headunit. Finally I can listen to music from my phone.

You know, I've had my truck for 9 months and I waited this long to do this (or anything else), kinda stupid in retrospect. But, as a poor student, I kinda told myself it could wait until I was working.

Just so you know... you can get "cassettes" on Amazon that plug into your phone. You put them in your cassette deck and you can play what's on your phone. $20.
 
Just so you know... you can get "cassettes" on Amazon that plug into your phone. You put them in your cassette deck and you can play what's on your phone. $20.
Add a USB C to 3.5mm stereo adapter if you've got a new iPhone, no more dedicated audio out says apple lol

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
Changed the oil, front diff, and transfer case fluids. Rear diff bolt will have to soak awhile before it will come loose.....
 

Didn't snap any, with the V6 there really is no place to work, much less to take pictures.

If you get under the truck it's pretty simple. Pass-side you have the actuator with two tubes going to a metal rack/tube extension. One is red (2DW) one is blue (4WD).

Right over the driver-side CV, the metal tubes finish and there is an other pair of red/blue tubes going up to the valves on the wheel well.

I simply replaced the metal section for the same upper/longer tubes pulled from a 96 base 4cyl. They are just the correct lenght to replace the metal section plus the short 4" flex at the actuator.

Will see if I feel like going under again and take some picts.
Keep in mind, this is not a Cali truck... it's rusted. Bad.
 
Didn't snap any, with the V6 there really is no place to work, much less to take pictures.

If you get under the truck it's pretty simple. Pass-side you have the actuator with two tubes going to a metal rack/tube extension. One is red (2DW) one is blue (4WD).

Right over the driver-side CV, the metal tubes finish and there is an other pair of red/blue tubes going up to the valves on the wheel well.

I simply replaced the metal section for the same upper/longer tubes pulled from a 96 base 4cyl. They are just the correct lenght to replace the metal section plus the short 4" flex at the actuator.

Will see if I feel like going under again and take some picts.
Keep in mind, this is not a Cali truck... it's rusted. Bad.

OK thanks, I'll be replacing my whole front diff soon so just curious where it rusted.

Speaking of rust, I just came to Ontario to work, man there are lots of rusty cars out here! Too bad, nothing a few cans of Fluid Film wouldn't fix.
 
OK thanks, I'll be replacing my whole front diff soon so just curious where it rusted.

Speaking of rust, I just came to Ontario to work, man there are lots of rusty cars out here! Too bad, nothing a few cans of Fluid Film wouldn't fix.

I know what you mean about the rust. My family is back east too. They use so much salt there. Even with the yearly undercoatings it's pretty hard to keep something from rusting. I think it's a bigger problem than fluid film but everything helps.

I hope to never take my 4runner there in winter.
 
Tack welded the slip joint on the steering shaft. Certainly a controversial modification but it really makes a significant difference.

I have replaced all ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, rack bushings, and installed the updated rack guide. Despite this, a few months of Michigan roads really beat the crap out of the joint. Was fine before moving here with ~105k on the truck. Has under 117k now.

Would make sure none of the above is causing play in your steering system before preforming this modification but damn is it effective!

I really need to do the tack weld. Anytime I go wheeling, it just annoys me to no end. Is it really a 1-hour job?
 
I really need to do the tack weld. Anytime I go wheeling, it just annoys me to no end. Is it really a 1-hour job?

I knew I had the issue but I did not realize the severity until I fixed it. The wheel stays solid (and quiet) over bumps now and it makes the whole driving experience better.

I would say it was about a 1.5 hour deal for me. Assembly took a few extra minutes compared to disassembly.
 
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