What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[Hammit]

Yesterday I Replaced all driver side fuel injectors thanks to #4 failure &
installed New plugs , wires.
Today was the dreaded fuel filter replacement which went 30min smoothly.
Job complete 96 ready for snowy roads

Hey Philz, was your engine misfiring with the failed injector? how did you diagnose it? im currently dealing with a misfire on cylinder 1 and the symptoms seem to be pointing me towards injector failure (runs/drives beautifully when cold, starts to misfire about 5 minutes after getting up to heat).

Any info would be fantastic! thank you in advance.

 

[2ndhandyotaman]

Isn't that diesel oil?

The Rotella T6 ? Yes, and its also a 5-W40, not the recommended 5-W30. Lots of threads on Taco world and in here about using it in our 3.4's. The biggest advantage for me is that the zinc package in the T6 is high compared to "modern" oils plus the cleaning additives in the T6.

 

[MrBob]

Carpet

It took hours longer than expected, but two of us replaced the carpet in my 3rd Gen yesterday. It wasn't a real complicated job and didn't require a ton of tools but did have some painstaking moments.
I bought the carpet on eBay and was reasonably satisfied with the quality. The final result was well worth the effort and I ordered Weathertech mats to protect my new carpet.
Now, if I could find a driver's seat that wasn't trashed.

 

[eddielasvegas]

car-part.com/index.htm


Eddie

Now, if I could find a driver's seat that wasn't trashed.

 

[3bears]

It would never shift out of 4WD going forward. I'd try 'S' turns like it might occasionally need prior, no go. Always had to back up about a foot and it would shift out normally.

I only used 4WD in off-road situations - which is usually dirt/gravel/slippery rocks. We were out in Utah over the summer and on some slick rock sections I noticed a bit more tire chirping than normal, but in prior years, with everything right, it would still chirp a bit here and there on slickrock.

There hasn't been any snow yet since I put the diff in to say how it would work on pavement in 4HI. And the transfer case was not making any noises when in 4WD.

thanks for your reply,

now for true confessions on why I asked those questions
, but a little history.
I had only had my 4runner one winter and had trouble with the 4wd. thanks to thedurk I got my issue solved. the following summer I put in an elocker and the shop I got it from swore it was a 4:10. After that I noticed that I had all the same symptoms you have/had. could only get out of 4wd if I backed up, had trouble sometimes going into 4wd, and was squirrely on the packed snow pavement in 4wd. But in loose dirt, gravel or snow, seemed to work fine. I was on the forum many times trying to figure it out, and even got to the point where I replaced the front actuator ( what a pain in the arse), Never owning a Toyota 4wd before ( but plenty of other domestic 4wd's) I just thought it was the way the 4 runner was.

So several weeks ago the rear diff blew out ( thread kaboom) and I got another 4:10 locker drum to drum. Got it in and went for a drive. Great I thought, now whats up, its shifting so good in and out, the 4wd must not be working, but I confirmed it was. Few days later got it into snow, worked great, on snow packed pavement, great.

The following week I put up a thread, how many teeth on a 4:10 and got answers. That following weekend, tore my blown up one apart... 4:30

So while I was looking for a 4:10 and you a 4:30, our symptoms were the same. Now I wonder just how much damage I have done to the transfer case after 2 years of 4wd in the back gravel road, slow driving, in snow.
I did get to see the 4runner this one came out of, and the door stickers matched

So Im sorry your having issues, but now I know for sure, my symptoms were because I had the wrong ratio

Good luck

 

[Philz]

Hey Philz, was your engine misfiring with the failed injector? how did you diagnose it? im currently dealing with a misfire on cylinder 1 and the symptoms seem to be pointing me towards injector failure (runs/drives beautifully when cold, starts to misfire about 5 minutes after getting up to heat).

Any info would be fantastic! thank you in advance.

Hi Hamite,
Yes misfire was present triggering CEL with C4 mis code.
In my case , mis was taking place cold & hot injector was totaly fried.

The process of elimination:
Inspecte vacuum lines , Plug wire , Replace plug , move coil packs 3 to 1.
If None of the above resolve issue , your fuel injector is likely @ fault.

The good news in your case , fuel injector 1 is on passenger side rail making for easy testing & removal.
You can test injector resistance using voltmeter , there’s a couple how to postings in this forum.
I skipped testing , so many test finding good then days later end up replacing problem solved.

If you go that route, I highly recommend CarQuest remanufactured OEM fuel injector sold by Advance Auto.
With online discount , core return you will end up paying around 44.00

 

[Wikano]

got into an accident so made repairs (new hood, grille, condenser, radiator, bumper) and upgrades

I've been looking to do a similar bumper on my rig. Dig you design that one yourself or buy it? Where could I get one?

 

[HappyHooligan]

I had the underbody coated with a rubber spray to see how that does for the winter in New England.

 

[octanejunkie]

Getting ready to do my annual oil change so I ordered a Free Test Kit from Blackstone Laboratories

 

[dogtail]

Getting ready to do my annual oil change so I ordered a Free Test Kit from Blackstone Laboratories

Wow, annual oil change? I do heavy miles and change my oil every 6-8 weeks at about 7-8K miles, just plain old Castrol GTX 10-30.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Installed a new AA Gold battery. The 6 1/2 year old Duralast AGM was holding at 11.5 volts but was still able to crank the engine.

 

[octanejunkie]

Wow, annual oil change? I do heavy miles and change my oil every 6-8 weeks at about 7-8K miles, just plain old Castrol GTX 10-30.

I drive 12-15K per year (although it used to be more) and switched to full synthetic with a WIX premium filter (rated for synthetic) a year ago, otherwise, like you, I was doing oil changes every other month or so when I was running conventional oil.

Lots of threads on the topic of annual oil changes, or longer, with synthetic both here and out there on the interwebs

 

[LittleCaesar]

Getting ready to do my annual oil change so I ordered a Free Test Kit from Blackstone Laboratories

I’ be interested to see what it says for ya Mike. What is the turnaround time or do you know?

 

[Woody1298]

Finally took it for a drive after doing a frame swap that took entirely too long.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[zoombyu86]

Finally took it for a drive after doing a frame swap that took entirely too long.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like something I'd get 1/8th of the way through and say "F this" and just start selling off parts. Haha.

 

[Woody1298]

Sounds like something I'd get 1/8th of the way through and say "F this" and just start selling off parts. Haha.

Well In all honestly, this was my first major job I’ve done other than water pumps and stuff like that. So I was happy to find where everything plugged back in and no cel’s. Now time to start the fun stuff of modifying it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[firemanj92]

Today was front coilover top hat replacement. Had moog top hats which the rubber failed after 1 year. Also replaced the front sway bar link isolators with Poly. The front links were also less than a year old-out with the rubber, in with the Poly. Total time including clean up approx 1.5 hours with my Branick.

 

[Lamer]

adjusted my hood latch to keep the hood from lifting while at speed, and painted the plastic just behind the hood along with the wipers with SEM Trim Black.

also found this: what is it? and should it be secured to anything? can someone please post a picture of theirs so I can see what I need in order to fix this loose piece???

 

[firemanj92]

adjusted my hood latch to keep the hood from lifting while at speed, and painted the plastic just behind the hood along with the wipers with SEM Trim Black.

also found this: what is it? and should it be secured to anything? can someone please post a picture of theirs so I can see what I need in order to fix this loose piece???

It attaches to the black square rubber isolator below where you are holding it, the metal L-bracket facing the motor from the fender (off the charcoal canister). Your 1st pic shows it better. The phillips screw broke from away from the rubber isolator. You can see the square wear mark it left on the phillips screw side-2nd pic.

 

[Lamer]

It attaches to the black square rubber isolator below where you are holding it, the metal L-bracket facing the motor from the fender (off the charcoal canister). Your 1st pic shows it better. The phillips screw broke from away from the rubber isolator. You can see the square wear mark it left on the phillips screw side-2nd pic.

you are a saint! its on my pin-n-pull list for the next time I go. thank you!