What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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See im leaning against the manual switch for one big reason: If I forget to turn the LED off, then its on until I remember to turn it off. I know its not much power drain, but still. the benefit of the illuminating manual switch is a big red LED telling you the light is still on.

That's a valid point. So you're thinking of putting the switch in the passenger compartment? I was thinking of having the switch in the engine compartment, that way the entire system will be in the engine compartment. But I see your point about possibly forgetting to turn the light off, although it's hard to imagine since it'd be lighting everything up as you're closing the hood! I guess you can go nuts and use both switches for the extra degree of safety!

I just read your thread! and I like the idea of keeping the OEM wiring separate from the aftermarket stuff. The Blue Sea fuse box is nice, I really don't know what else I will be adding, that's the big problem. I do see a winch in my future, but that will have its own dedicated wiring system.

For sure, the winch and other big loads may require different wiring. But the empty slots in the OEM fuse box are just begging to be used!
 
Big wiring day today, finishing up projects that were abandoned midstream a few months ago.

First I populated the empty slots in the OEM fuse box, so now I have a foglight fuse (the yellow 20A fuse), and room for three more fuses:

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Overview of what's involved is here - Using empty slots in OEM fuse box?

Then I followed [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION]'s excellent mod for the negative battery cable using the Avalon lug terminal - https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3091606-post92.html.

From this:

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To this:

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Side by side comparison:

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Overall view:

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And the "slightly" fatter ground wire to the body:

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That's a valid point. So you're thinking of putting the switch in the passenger compartment? I was thinking of having the switch in the engine compartment, that way the entire system will be in the engine compartment. But I see your point about possibly forgetting to turn the light off, although it's hard to imagine since it'd be lighting everything up as you're closing the hood! I guess you can go nuts and use both switches for the extra degree of safety!

For sure, the winch and other big loads may require different wiring. But the empty slots in the OEM fuse box are just begging to be used!

I would have the switch in the engine compartment no matter what.
 
Replaced spark plugs and wires. Had a misfire on number 4 due to the spark plug wire. When removing the spark plug the threads were stripped on number 4 also, seams to be a common problem. Got the TIME-SERT spark plug repair kit. Kit number 4412E-111 from Amazon. Glad to have it back running.
 
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My new shiny bits arrived a couple days earlier than expected. Just wish we didn't get a bunch of snow yesterday.
 
That's a valid point. So you're thinking of putting the switch in the passenger compartment? I was thinking of having the switch in the engine compartment, that way the entire system will be in the engine compartment. But I see your point about possibly forgetting to turn the light off, although it's hard to imagine since it'd be lighting everything up as you're closing the hood! I guess you can go nuts and use both switches for the extra degree of safety!

I would have the switch in the engine compartment no matter what.

I have a gm light on my hood now that shuts off automatically as you shut the hood- you can see it happen before the hood closes. Thing is, I've currently got the fuse for it pulled because most of the time it's daylight when the hood is up and for whatever silly reason it bothers me to have it on when I don't need it.

I really like the idea of both types of switch and that's what I need to do with my set-up. I'd add the on/off switch in the engine compartment because that makes the most sense to me.

Good, another to-do. :)
 
Made some brackets for my rigid rock light kit, made a bracket for an led strip that will light up the fold down table on my cbi bumper, and took a couple pictures.

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I programmed my key fobs! I love it! I feel so fancy being able to click a button to lock/unlock the 4runner!

One problem though, my dual battery solenoid. I have a relay triggering a 80amp solenoid to link or isolate the two batteries from each other. When the key is switched to on, the relay triggers the solenoid, and the batteries are linked so they both charge. When the key is off, the house battery is isolated, so I can kill it with lights, the power inverter, or fridge. So how does the key fob affect this?

I had spliced into the running lights as my key on triggering wire for the relay. When you hit the buttons to unlock or lock the 4runner, the 80 amp battery solenoid clicks. Every time. Looks like I need to hook up another key on power source.
 
I adhered the 3' LED strip to the underside of the hood. Now to decide if I use the illuminating switch which I already have, or buy a pin switch so the lights automatically turn on/off

Pin switch is much less wiring, but I have to buy it.
Illuminating switch is 3 prong, but I have it.

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I also really need a fuse box in a bad way. my positive terminal is getting crowded. and my one grounding bolt is getting full: Big 3, projectors, and horns.

I really like having an illuminated switch, I did a pin switch on a previous vehicle, and a non-illuminated switch currently in my wife's car. My switch is right near the core support, convenient to hit, and attached to the house battery, so it won't ruin my day if the battery ends up dead.

The illuminated switch is best cause it isn't ALWAYS on when the hood is up, and the glowing light is there to remind you to turn it off.
 
I really like the idea of both types of switch and that's what I need to do with my set-up. I'd add the on/off switch in the engine compartment because that makes the most sense to me.

Good, another to-do. :)

Haha, the projects never end! And I agree, I think that dual switches (a toggle and a pin switch) seems like the way to go for us OCD types :).
 
I actually did a thing!

On Sunday I fitted the digital speedo corrector. now the speed is 100% accurate (well compared to my laggy GPS) since fitting 33s and 4.88s, previously it was over reading by 15%!

I also had a new windscreen (sorry Colonials, windshield) fitted a few months back. insisted on genuine Toyota screen and shield. I'm glad we did it when we did and I had a trusted guy to look at it, as there was a slight hazing of surface rust starting, all rubbed off and treated before it became an issue!
 
Yesterday I got Sandy a little bit dirty and took her to the Elfin Lakes parking lot. The last section of the road was supposed to be chain-up but we risked it and were OK. There was sheet ice at the end.

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Today I made good progress on Snowy. Took off the old bent up hood and put on a new one from Certifit. It seems to fit well. But you can really tell the metal is thinner. I took off the ugly fat lip bumper which looked even worse mangled up. Look what good shape she is in under there! Frame is untouched except for the lower control arm bracket.

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But first I had to straighten some of the mangled metal underneath so the hood would fit. I used this jaw puller which is pretty cool. The harder you pull, the tighter it grips.

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And I test fit the hood scoop. Ummmm, doesn't look like it fits. Can anyone please measure theirs, the widest part at the front? The scoop is 14" wide and the hood section for it is 17". Hopefully it's the hood scoop that's wrong. Oh well, it was only $20. I got it on Ebay here. Any insight anyone?

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And I test fit the hood scoop. Ummmm, doesn't look like it fits. Can anyone please measure theirs, the widest part at the front? The scoop is 14" wide and the hood section for it is 17". Hopefully it's the hood scoop that's wrong. Oh well, it was only $20. I got it on Ebay here. Any insight anyone?


Widest part is 17 1/8" best as I can see. It tapers as it gets to the front edge.

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The ruler doesn't look right on this one, but it shows the shape of the apron better
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It's sitting on the dining room table if you want any other pics.
 
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Widest part is 17 1/8" best as I can see. It tapers as it gets to the front edge.

Awesome thanks. So it looks like the scoop is totally wrong which is strange because that Ebay link says it is for 3rd gen 4runners. But what it shows in the photo on Ebay is what I got. I haven't had a hood scoop before so I didn't really pay attention to what the image looked like before purchasing...
 
Threw another pic up there for you [MENTION=167496]Mark B[/MENTION]C . Mine is a Toyota scoop off a 3rd gen 4Runner that was crunched at the junkyard, I'm saving it for a rainy day and possible eventual hood shenanigans of my own.

Looking at your Ebay link it is wrong when it comes to 3rd gen 4Runners, I can see how you thought you had the right thing.
 
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