westdiablo
New member
That there can't be emphasized enough. Stainless threads will gall and create a bigger problem than you started with. People skip this all the time.
Good on ya for knowing this and sharing it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
- Thread starter pin8246
- Start date
- Status
That there can't be emphasized enough. Stainless threads will gall and create a bigger problem than you started with. People skip this all the time.
Good on ya for knowing this and sharing it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
DaMonkey
New member
Temp sender for PWM fan. But I'm actually going to tap into the stock sender. I just found that if I read voltage and not use a pull-up resistor in my fan unit it does not bother the ECU reading. I think it will be nicer to skip that inline fitting. I also prefer the stock hose clamps which I'll put back in.
The torque for that nut in the FSM is wrong, it says 20 something ft lbs I think but if you calculate the Nm to ft lbs yourself its actually 13 ft lbs. I stripped that bolt re-adjusting mine so got another from the dealer and doubled checked the torque number and it is way off. Had to use a nut splitter to get it out.
Decided to tighten up the alternator belt because it's squealing.
The long bolt that threads perpendicular into #5 ("Adjust bar slider" in the illustration is responsible for the belt tension,it snapped off. #5 itself threads into the alternator and can't be removed while it's in the engine bay :rant:
So I unbolted #4 from the engine side and slid the alternator off. I have to cut off what's left of the long bolt stuck in #5 so I can at unbolt it from the alternator. Long bolt will be replaced with a stainless steel one from Ace Hardware along with a liberal application of antiseize
AZBub
New member
Finished editing this video....and also discovered my 19 year old CV joint boot tore. Gonna buy ONE NAPA new one. Replace the torn one and reboot it then swap it with the other side so I can reboot that one as well.
<iframe width="640" height="400" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/CzwTs93pATc" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="640" height="400" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/CzwTs93pATc" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Last edited:
You got 19 years from the CV boots? Do you rub armorall on them each night before you brush your teeth?? The napa maxdrive ones are pretty good for the money. I enjoyed the video I bet there is some good mtb trails in those hills.
Hopeless Diamond
New member
Got 23 out of mine. Now that I put a lift on it, they're starting to weep, although it doesn't seem to be because of tears, just weeping grease out of the inner boot at the CV side. Not a lot either, interestingly, one of them doesn't have the clamp on it anymore and its not leaking anymore than the other side.
westdiablo
New member
First wash since I got the Cloud Runner two months ago.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
antlicious
New member
Finally did middle console mod on my 98, but an issue arose
I took the gamble of not using a donor ebrake tub. I used the original tub and everything fits! I only had to remove the metal tab that keeps the cable in the ridge.
When I finished the project, everything worked mechanically. however, whenever the handbrake is lifted and the button is not being pressed by the lever, the dash light does not turn on.
The dash light should turn on whenever the button is not pressed and is in an erected state. The light turns off when the button is depressed due to the brake lever pushing on it. 3rd gen owners should know what I am talking about.
In my case, the light does not turn on whatsoever. I thought I got a faulty ebrake button, but I plugged in the older one and still nothing. It's as if the button is depressed permanently.
Of course this won't affect driving, but I just like everything to work in the car. Getting reminded that my ebrake is engaged is beneficial too.
I'm not sure how this happened, I probably snagged on the wires too hard when relocating the switches that originally belonged on the middle console.
I took the gamble of not using a donor ebrake tub. I used the original tub and everything fits! I only had to remove the metal tab that keeps the cable in the ridge.
When I finished the project, everything worked mechanically. however, whenever the handbrake is lifted and the button is not being pressed by the lever, the dash light does not turn on.
The dash light should turn on whenever the button is not pressed and is in an erected state. The light turns off when the button is depressed due to the brake lever pushing on it. 3rd gen owners should know what I am talking about.
In my case, the light does not turn on whatsoever. I thought I got a faulty ebrake button, but I plugged in the older one and still nothing. It's as if the button is depressed permanently.
Of course this won't affect driving, but I just like everything to work in the car. Getting reminded that my ebrake is engaged is beneficial too.
I'm not sure how this happened, I probably snagged on the wires too hard when relocating the switches that originally belonged on the middle console.
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Like you said, it's probably not the switch but the wiring, or maybe the connector got disengaged. You can pull up the console bezel and recheck that fairly easily.
Cliffs Notes: Replaced the injectors... AGAIN.
Longer version: About a week and a half ago my '99 developed a misfire. Check engine light, sometimes flashing, PO306 code. A quick diagnosis ruled out an ignition problem (by swapping parts around on the car, and with my wife's '96). So.. probably an injector. It ran fine when cold, but when fully warmed up, #6 would just drop out.
And off to the eBays. Where I knew to look out for fakes. Or did I? Dunno, ordered a set of 6 new injectors, described as 'OEM & Genuine Parts Only!' and 'These Injectors are NOT aftermarket' for $217. Also 'Set of 6 (6 Pieces per order) Brand New OEM DENSO Fuel Injectors'. Lol, I guess the price should have been an obvious clue. No way anyone can sell actual genuine sets of 6 new injectors for that price. Got them in the mail in shady looking little plastic bags, I forget the wording on them, but it didn't inspire confidence. And they had skinny looking O-rings - red on the top, black on the bottom. I looked them over *CAREFULLY*, and they are very good gakes. The 'Aisan' brand name, the part numbers, the casting flashes, all looked pretty good, even next to my original injectors.
I should have just sent them back (actually, shouldn't have ordered them at all), but I had my intake off and other injectors out, so I just decided to install these. Of course, the first start took a while, the fuel rails are empty, and there's no priming fuel pump pulse like some cars do. But after that, it took a WHILE to start the car whenever it had been sitting for a while. Like 5 - 10 - 15 seconds of cranking. It ran fine enough when it started, but that made me suspect they were leaking down while sitting. I drove it for about 50 miles, if anything, they got worse.
Contacted the seller, they feebly insisted these are genuine injectors, bought in 'batches of 10000 without factory packaging', but they also didn't protest much at giving me a refund, even lightly used and missing their little plastic baggies. So I sent them back, and visited the local Pick-And-Pull junkyard where a '99 arrived recently (another green 5 spd manual). And got those injectors. You can tell they don't leak because when we got down to the fuel rail and lifted it off the injectors, some residual pressure was still in the system. Not just a dribble/gush after pulled all the way off, an actual small pressurized spray as the first injector broke seal. After being crashed and sitting for, at a bare minimum, a month?
Anyhow, put those on, kept my 5 as spares. And now it runs perfectly, starts within 1/2 second of cranking, and I have to see if I get my money back on those crappy knockoff injectors.
Longer version: About a week and a half ago my '99 developed a misfire. Check engine light, sometimes flashing, PO306 code. A quick diagnosis ruled out an ignition problem (by swapping parts around on the car, and with my wife's '96). So.. probably an injector. It ran fine when cold, but when fully warmed up, #6 would just drop out.
And off to the eBays. Where I knew to look out for fakes. Or did I? Dunno, ordered a set of 6 new injectors, described as 'OEM & Genuine Parts Only!' and 'These Injectors are NOT aftermarket' for $217. Also 'Set of 6 (6 Pieces per order) Brand New OEM DENSO Fuel Injectors'. Lol, I guess the price should have been an obvious clue. No way anyone can sell actual genuine sets of 6 new injectors for that price. Got them in the mail in shady looking little plastic bags, I forget the wording on them, but it didn't inspire confidence. And they had skinny looking O-rings - red on the top, black on the bottom. I looked them over *CAREFULLY*, and they are very good gakes. The 'Aisan' brand name, the part numbers, the casting flashes, all looked pretty good, even next to my original injectors.
I should have just sent them back (actually, shouldn't have ordered them at all), but I had my intake off and other injectors out, so I just decided to install these. Of course, the first start took a while, the fuel rails are empty, and there's no priming fuel pump pulse like some cars do. But after that, it took a WHILE to start the car whenever it had been sitting for a while. Like 5 - 10 - 15 seconds of cranking. It ran fine enough when it started, but that made me suspect they were leaking down while sitting. I drove it for about 50 miles, if anything, they got worse.
Contacted the seller, they feebly insisted these are genuine injectors, bought in 'batches of 10000 without factory packaging', but they also didn't protest much at giving me a refund, even lightly used and missing their little plastic baggies. So I sent them back, and visited the local Pick-And-Pull junkyard where a '99 arrived recently (another green 5 spd manual). And got those injectors. You can tell they don't leak because when we got down to the fuel rail and lifted it off the injectors, some residual pressure was still in the system. Not just a dribble/gush after pulled all the way off, an actual small pressurized spray as the first injector broke seal. After being crashed and sitting for, at a bare minimum, a month?
Anyhow, put those on, kept my 5 as spares. And now it runs perfectly, starts within 1/2 second of cranking, and I have to see if I get my money back on those crappy knockoff injectors.
<a href="https://102449.smugmug.com/2002-Toyota-4-Runner/4-Runner/i-56dPhCZ/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2002-Toyota-4-Runner/4-Runner/i-56dPhCZ/0/4bf78b35/M/IMG_4556-M.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://102449.smugmug.com/2002-Toyota-4-Runner/4-Runner/i-s4bZmpQ/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2002-Toyota-4-Runner/4-Runner/i-s4bZmpQ/0/cc96db83/M/IMG_4558-M.jpg" alt=""></a>
The crappy seat cover in my 3rd Gen was driving me crazy so I bought upper and lower seat covers and new lower foam cushion on eBay and paid an auto upholstery place to do the install. All told, I spent around 600.00 on the driver's seat. Passenger side should be about 400.00.
<a href="https://102449.smugmug.com/2002-Toyota-4-Runner/4-Runner/i-s4bZmpQ/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/2002-Toyota-4-Runner/4-Runner/i-s4bZmpQ/0/cc96db83/M/IMG_4558-M.jpg" alt=""></a>
The crappy seat cover in my 3rd Gen was driving me crazy so I bought upper and lower seat covers and new lower foam cushion on eBay and paid an auto upholstery place to do the install. All told, I spent around 600.00 on the driver's seat. Passenger side should be about 400.00.
Last edited:
96 ToyRunner
Member
Changed air filter with a Toyota filter at 331,333 miles
- Status
Similar threads
