What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Went to the dealer, $18 later all black screws arrived and the heads already looked beat up. If you like the matching brown, and don’t want them to look like shit right out of the bag, then I think 99Problems had the best plan of attack.

A lot of the dealer stuff has been transitioned to neutral colors or gray for the 3rd gen 4runners. I tried to order some oak parts when I first got it, and they all arrived gray.

Hey,
Thanks for the reply...... I have to order a dome light it had better NOT be any other color but beige!
Thanks!
 
The panel saw was out of order at Lowes. No prob.

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I wish Toyota built houses. Need to figure out how best to retro pan flash this window, too sketchy removing it on the ladder.

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Is there an advantage using Supra injectors, if so wish I had known as I did this job 2+months ago



Well, to start they are about 50cc bigger I believe. I mainly did it to have no more pinging! I was getting pinging under load pretty often. Now it does not and has lots better feel accelerating. They are not that much bigger so the ECU can compensate for the bigger size by lowering the injector ‘on’ time. Driveability for my daily driving remains the same, but now I feel it has more power when I need it. Definitely worth the money. Not only are they bigger but now I’m starting to think mine were just wore out and clogged due to really high mileage...332k


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Drove on the highway, which is rare, and wished i had better gearing

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Anything over 65 is screaming with 4.10s and 33s [emoji58]


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Got the old nasty visors recovered for $50 and built a split cargo cover that I can stack stuff on and stay a little more organized. Lowes had an 8' x 10' roll of tan carpet for $20 so the whole thing was about $45 with plywood and spray adhesive.
 

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Got the old nasty visors recovered for $50 and built a split cargo cover that I can stack stuff on and stay a little more organized. Lowes had an 8' x 10' roll of tan carpet for $20 so the whole thing was about $45 with plywood and spray adhesive.

that looks good. how are you mounting this? is it a secure system (stays in place over bumps)?
 
Brand new OEM LBJ's and a fresh set of KYB's all around . The old girl drives like a brand new truck . Original LBJ's had 456,000 KM's on them .

:tongue:
 
Killed off 7 hours cleaning the outside. First hour was an attempt to buff out some nasty scratches in the windshild (PO apparently liked to run the wipers down to the hard plastic) ~ no luck. Then 6 hours washing with a high pH soap, running a clay-bar over the whole thing (don't normally have to trash a new bar after one use on one car, did today), then washing again before getting a good paste-wax applied.

Glad it'll never take this long again.
 
The panels are just resting on top of a bar(1/2" electrical conduit) in the rear that fits into the stock cargo hooks and a ~1.5" square wood stick in the front with a plywood guide to fit in the main cargo cover mount. The panels fit tight against each other and the side so they don't bounce around, I actually had to trim the 2nd one down because it was too big after I put the carpet on it. I made a template out of cardboard that covered from the window to the center then flipped it to make the other side. If it rattles I can put some Velcro hook on the stick, it will stick to the carpet loop. I've done this on a couple Subarus and never had to attach it.
 

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Added a Hayden ATF cooler inline after consistently reaching temps into the 220's (some as high as 240). After some testing, I'm steady about 160* maxing out about 180.
The fluid that drained out was pretty dark and nasty, but no metal seen. Went ahead and added an inline magnafilter. Current radiator has about 65k miles on it and plan to swap in a new one in the winter.
Also did an oil change and installed the Fumoto valve from RCI so I don't have drop the skid or make a mess with basic oil changes.
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The fluid that drained out was pretty dark and nasty, but no metal seen.
That is burnt fluid, assuming it's the trans and not engine oil. I would do the trans fluid flush. Also put some padding on that trans hose where it goes thru the sheet metal so the vibrations don't cut it. Look at 39:50 of this video; YouTube
YouTube
 
That is burnt fluid, assuming it's the trans and not engine oil. I would do the trans fluid flush. Also put some padding on that trans hose where it goes thru the sheet metal so the vibrations don't cut it. Look at 39:50 of this video; YouTube
YouTube

Thanks, I bought 6 quarts of ATF, planning on buying more after seeing how burnt that is and anticipating how many flushes I'm going to do.

I actually did some of the padding already (not pictured obviously), just didn't take any pictures :der:
 
Thanks, I bought 6 quarts of ATF, planning on buying more after seeing how burnt that is and anticipating how many flushes I'm going to do.



I actually did some of the padding already (not pictured obviously), just didn't take any pictures :der:
Don't bother with a simple drain and fill of just the pan volume, replace all of it if it's burnt because if it is the fluid is basically useless (heat exchange/lubricity).

A complete fluid exchange will take upwards of 18 quarts on a 4WD.

Drain, fill, pump and pour 1-2 quarts at a time is safe and easy.

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Rear coils and shocks

Installed new Moog 81041 Coil Springs and Skyjacker H7022 Softride Hydro shocks.
I'm disappointed in the springs. I was hoping for a slight lift, but only gained about 1/2 inch.
The skyjackers are pretty sweet and definitely an upgrade for only $56 for the pair.
 

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About to start day two of lower control arm replacement. I ended up getting the whole thing, even though only the bushing was bad. It’s a rust belt truck and knew the rust situation could be bad.... everything is frozen lol.... power steering rack bolts, sleeves, bolts, cam ends... everything lol. Spent a good 3 hours yesterday and called it. Needed more blades for the sawzall to cut the sleeves off. And it was a solid 95 lol
 

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Thanks, I bought 6 quarts of ATF, planning on buying more after seeing how burnt that is and anticipating how many flushes I'm going to do.

I actually did some of the padding already (not pictured obviously), just didn't take any pictures :der:

now that you have an in line cooler it wont be hard to do a flush , not just a drain and fill from the pan, timmy has a good video on how on you tube if you don't know how
 
The panels are just resting on top of a bar(1/2" electrical conduit) in the rear that fits into the stock cargo hooks and a ~1.5" square wood stick in the front with a plywood guide to fit in the main cargo cover mount. The panels fit tight against each other and the side so they don't bounce around, I actually had to trim the 2nd one down because it was too big after I put the carpet on it. I made a template out of cardboard that covered from the window to the center then flipped it to make the other side. If it rattles I can put some Velcro hook on the stick, it will stick to the carpet loop. I've done this on a couple Subarus and never had to attach it.

did you also recently cut a hole and add a compressor, do you have a cover for it ?
 
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