What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Also, my driver side rear axle seal started leaking again, about 11 months after I replaced the seal. Guess it's time to do bearings and seals.

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Work down the block, leaving it in the garage. Plan on washing it tomorrow since it's going to be a beautiful out in Chicago for the next 10 days or so.
 
Rust repair on the skid plates:








I am about to put way too much time, effort and $$$ into a skid plate on a factory ride height 4Runner that is never going to be seen.
 
Got tired of looking at the rusty factory tow hitch on my new to me 02 SR5 Sport so I busted out the Makita angle grinder with wire wheel and went to town.
Is it perfect, no way but looks way better than before!
 

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Also, my driver side rear axle seal started leaking again, about 11 months after I replaced the seal. Guess it's time to do bearings and seals.

Where have you been hiding Mike, we miss you!

And yeah, that replacement seal is usually a temporary fix, sounds like it's time to break down and do the whole job. Fun!
 
Where have you been hiding Mike, we miss you!



And yeah, that replacement seal is usually a temporary fix, sounds like it's time to break down and do the whole job. Fun!
I've been hiding behind my awesome hood struts [emoji851]

Yup, time to do the rear axle bearings. Might connect with a forum member this weekend to do the axle seals, or borrow the tools to do them.

Also, just ordered SR5 fender flare caps from @BH3D so I guess I should also mount my sliders, finally

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Commuting with the truck in Atlanta weather today - 90F and moderately humid. I put a thermocouple in the vent and read 40-45F nearly all the time. Does this sound like the AC is tuned up properly? It certainly does a fine job from a comfort perspective.
 
Commuting with the truck in Atlanta weather today - 90F and moderately humid. I put a thermocouple in the vent and read 40-45F nearly all the time. Does this sound like the AC is tuned up properly? It certainly does a fine job from a comfort perspective.

Come back to Palo Alto! :D
 
From someone who has lived in the South most of my life that is OK. I can get my 4Runner down to 38f. Got my gf’s Altima down to 36f after changing out her compressor and drier in May.

Still got the oil bottle hanging out under the hood?
 
Replaced pcv valve, was pretty gunked up probably oem @ 194k miles.

Spent like 30mins fishing out the old grommet from inside the valve cover, disintegrated when i tried pulling it out.
 
Replaced my spark plugs, coils, and wires to get rid of the check engine light. Also replaced my rear O2 sensor. Driving MUCH better now, turned off the light with the code reader. Hopefully after driving it for a little the check engine light will continue to stay off. :)
 
Replaced my spark plugs, coils, and wires to get rid of the check engine light. Also replaced my rear O2 sensor. Driving MUCH better now, turned off the light with the code reader. Hopefully after driving it for a little the check engine light will continue to stay off. :)

If you haven't replaced the maf sensor I would add that to the list. Very common problem.
 
I replaced shifter bushings... which weren't so bad.

bBwIttq.jpg


Of course the Bottom 2, that are more involved to access, were the worst 2

R6sloCj.jpg



And then I replaced the original fuel filter. Would have grabbed a photo but I got doused in gas, still burning the crap outta my arm. Stupid flare nuts were essentially rusted in place. But, I cut the filter open, was basically packed with mud at 194k original miles.
 
Ass deep in some fuel injectors now, been playing the "code 0304? Hmmm... swap coil, swap wires, swap plugs, buy cleaner, cross fingers hurr durr.." game for a few months. Halfway done, fingers crossed again. :pop2:

Edit: Done.. freekin WOW. Amazing how sluggish and slow it had become. I did all six injectors and my check engine light and misfire disappeared. Took about 4hrs.

I even made a tutorial, check it out:

1. Pop the hood and look at the engine bay.

2. Make it look like this...

20190801_182905.jpg


3. Put new injectors in it.

4. Put it back the way it was on Step 1.

I hope this helps everyone and don't worry about paying me, you can use this expert knowledge completely free of charge. All I ask is that if you ever feel like private messaging pictures of your wife or girlfriend to someone on this forum that you think of your buddy Boom Headshot.
 
Last edited:
Ass deep in some fuel injectors now, been playing the "code 0304? Hmmm... swap coil, swap wires, swap plugs, buy cleaner, cross fingers hurr durr.." game for a few months. Halfway done, fingers crossed again. :pop2:

Edit: Done.. freekin WOW. Amazing how sluggish and slow it had become. I did all six injectors and my check engine light and misfire disappeared. Took about 4hrs.

I even made a tutorial, check it out:

1. Pop the hood and look at the engine bay.

2. Make it look like this...

20190801_182905.jpg


3. Put new injectors in it.

4. Put it back the way it was on Step 1.

I hope this helps everyone and don't worry about paying me, you can use this expert knowledge completely free of charge. All I ask is that if you ever feel like private messaging pictures of your wife or girlfriend to someone on this forum that you think of your buddy Boom Headshot.
You have PM

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If you haven't replaced the maf sensor I would add that to the list. Very common problem.

Thanks for the recommendation. if the light continues to stay on I will give that a shot next. Just watched a video on youtube and it looks pretty simple to replace.

It's cheaper to clean the MAF sensor than it is to replace. You should clean it with sensors safe cleaner every time you replace your air filter

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QUOTE=TheLincolnGreen;3331617]If you haven't replaced the maf sensor I would add that to the list. Very common problem.



It's cheaper to clean the MAF sensor than it is to replace. You should clean it with sensors safe cleaner every time you replace your air filter

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agree, I would not replace a MAF unless I knew it was bad ( codes etc) or unless someone gave me a new Toyota one for free
 
I've tried several methods and found that a slide hammer (o'reilly loaner) gets those seals out easy as pie.

Replaced rear driver's side axle seal. Was actually a pretty easy job. Hardest part was removing the old seal. FYI, the brake parts do not need to be removed to do this.
Replaced front brake pads, and surprise! A piston was locked in the passenger side caliper. So it was replaced too.
Installed a set of yitamotor 1.5" wheel spacers. Love the look and only $50 on fleabay. I can see why some think you need extended nuts on the front, but I was still able to get 8 or 9 full turns. Good enough for now I hope.
 
It's cheaper to clean the MAF sensor than it is to replace. You should clean it with sensors safe cleaner every time you replace your air filter

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agree, I would not replace a MAF unless I knew it was bad ( codes etc) or unless someone gave me a new Toyota one for free[/QUOTE]

Toyota maf sensors are only around $15 on fleabay. It appeared to be genuine anyway. Cleaning was only a temporary fix in my experience.
I didn't see that he knew what was causing the code, investing in a cheap obd reader is a good idea.
 
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