What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Crowcifier6
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I freed up my E brake bell cranks, pivot, and adjusted rear brakes.
TheLincolnGreen
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5100s in front today, rears were done a few weeks ago. 1:1 swap with 10+ y/o 4600s. Likely will swap out springs eventually when armor comes, or go Tundra 5100s if I can find springs.
Also installed 99-02 headlights and 01-02 tails that I picked up from the junkyard last week
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Also installed 99-02 headlights and 01-02 tails that I picked up from the junkyard last week
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Found out the front strut tophats that autozone sells dont fit my 1998 4runner, and the previous owner installed a spacer lift with an aftermarket tophat (longer bolts) will not fit back on without the spacer. Now I'm back to waiting to install my Bilstein 5100 struts and OME 883/891 coils :rip:
I bought a T4R today
Hello all
I saw this stick on the 3rd gen T4R threads - just bought a 1997 T4R SR5 and have really been looking forward to pulling the trigger on this for some time - want to learn how to work on cars and slowly modify this into a better off road vehicle once I get all the mechanical stuff figured out. Looking forward to being a member of the forum and will be posting soon as I have already discovered some... interesting things that I did not notice til I got it home.
Hello all
I saw this stick on the 3rd gen T4R threads - just bought a 1997 T4R SR5 and have really been looking forward to pulling the trigger on this for some time - want to learn how to work on cars and slowly modify this into a better off road vehicle once I get all the mechanical stuff figured out. Looking forward to being a member of the forum and will be posting soon as I have already discovered some... interesting things that I did not notice til I got it home.
Dezert4Runner
Senior Member
Installed new NGK plugs and wires, cleaned throttle body, MAF sensor and IAC.
-Got some wheel caps at LKQ and put those on. They were missing when I purchased her.
-Fixed the rear door. Did not want to open. Turns out the the lock was loose and came off and wouldn't unlock. Rolled the window down and fished it out. Then opened the back panel and reset the lock in its place. Door is functioning.
-Fixed my D light on my dashboard. Light was out when I purchased her.
-Opened the hood and made sure I didn't see any new leaks.
-Looked at her some more as I walked inside my house :usa2::happy:
-Fixed the rear door. Did not want to open. Turns out the the lock was loose and came off and wouldn't unlock. Rolled the window down and fished it out. Then opened the back panel and reset the lock in its place. Door is functioning.
-Fixed my D light on my dashboard. Light was out when I purchased her.
-Opened the hood and made sure I didn't see any new leaks.
-Looked at her some more as I walked inside my house :usa2::happy:
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
I'm not the OP, but having done this taillight swap, your best bet is to also use the '01-02 harnesses, which terminate just inside the rear side trim pieces, so you'll have to pull the trim off a bit to get to the connectors. Otherwise you'll have to splice your '96-00 harness because the bulbs are different.
Twan
Senior Member
Such a simple upgrade that improves it greatly.
Like [MENTION=198376]4Runner4Leon[/MENTION] said, it's so much easier to get the pigtails along with the lights themselves. You just have to get behind the trim panels and unplug it/undo the one ground and you don't have to splice in any different bulb holders. I got my set from a guy parting out a truck and he was nice enough to include those harnesses as well.
Kanoe
New member
Rear cigg. lighter plug. Full time powered from my little blue seas panel under the glove box.
A little industrial looking but solid. There is a slightly larger aluminum plate on the inside and the rivets pull them together pinching the plastic tightly. Outlet is a toyota one I scored out of something at some time, had it in the parts bin.
Will come in handy for listening to podcasts while sleeping in the back or charging the laptop.
A little industrial looking but solid. There is a slightly larger aluminum plate on the inside and the rivets pull them together pinching the plastic tightly. Outlet is a toyota one I scored out of something at some time, had it in the parts bin.
Will come in handy for listening to podcasts while sleeping in the back or charging the laptop.
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finally got around to unplugging the dang power antenna motor thats been running pointlessly every time i started it since i bought it. Plus got rid of the dang squeak in the clutch pedal. Up next is to get rid of the crossbars holding up my curt rack and mounting like the thread i found on here does!
Performed "grey wire" mod for rear e-locker engagement in 2HI/4HI/4Low, pulled 12v outlet relay apart and shimmed it with cardboard for constant power, rear axle bearings and seals, replaced rear wheel cylinders/shoes/drums, replaced rear parking brake bell cranks, installed rear speed bleeders and flushed all brakes with new DOT 3 brake fluid, and removed the gawdy brake/gas pedal covers from autozone the PO installed. I was going to have the rear drums turned but Toyota dealership wanted $130 to resurface them and both oreilly's didn't have the correct centering cone to do it. Autozone, advanced auto, meineke, and midas don't resurface drums in my town either.
Did my yearly replacement of broken sway bar links. I think it broke because the front sway bar bushings were badly bound up with sand and grit and could hardly move because the grease had washed out. I used the grease than came with some poly bushings I put in early this year instead of my usual Silaramic grease (probably the wrong grease to use, it's technically dry-film ceramic/silicone? brake grease but it seems to works good in poly bushings, very sticky so stays put and supposedly plastic safe). So I re-greased them with that stuff. Been using Masterpro links from Oreilly which hold up pretty well actually. I'm using 2nd gen rears in the front and 3rd gen fronts in the rear.
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I recently pulled my front sway bar to recondition it and throw some Energy Suspensions bushings on... was a little disappointed that my one year old links were shot - but I guess thats why aftermarkets are sub $15 and OEM are about $85!
Mine usually snap at the thin point below the bushing after each winter from rust, usually when I'm taking the bar off like you said. But these Masterpro ones hold up to rust quite well and only $20. I put my suspension through its paces on a daily basis though tbh.
5 Speed Dave
New member
Have Ya got yer ears on?
Yesterday I got the NICE Drifter CB Antenna mount installed. THANKS, MStudt - That is a great looking piece of metal.
Got the 4 foot Firestick antenna, heavy duty spring mount and 18 foot cable.
My 14 year old Son was a BIG help! :hello:
It's like the 1970's all over again ...... for those who remember living in the country where ALL phone calls began with the box with the dial hanging on the wall and EVERYONE was long distance..........
Yesterday I got the NICE Drifter CB Antenna mount installed. THANKS, MStudt - That is a great looking piece of metal.
Got the 4 foot Firestick antenna, heavy duty spring mount and 18 foot cable.
My 14 year old Son was a BIG help! :hello:
It's like the 1970's all over again ...... for those who remember living in the country where ALL phone calls began with the box with the dial hanging on the wall and EVERYONE was long distance..........
Daddycreswell
New member
Stared at the rear mudflap that is separated from the body on the drives side rear. The tab on the bottom is cracked and it will not stay in place. I tired some 3m tape but not enough of a lip on the mudflap to secure it. Going to try some black construction adhesive maybe that will work.
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