What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Looks great.
How do you like the nitro chargers over bumps?
Been really thinking about these.
Just afraid they’d be too harsh or stiff over potholes or uneven manholes over 20mph

I haven’t gotten to test them out properly yet but so far they ride like an empty pickup. I don’t think the shock has as much to do with that as the springs do.
 
Capped off the week with new tires after installing Energy Suspension body mounts, rear sway bar bushings, and an OME 10mm coil spring trim packer in the left rear.

Overall with all the work the side to side is within 1/2’’ of each other now with just under 1/2’’ rake rear to front. That and she handles great now! Time to hit some light trails this weekend.

Do you think the body mounts made a difference? Poly more firm versus OEM rubber bushings?
 
JZiggy and I have had ours installed for close to a year and a half, no issues. Rivets are probably the best type of permanent fastener for this application, as they are less sensitive to vibration than threaded fasteners.

Since the days of those early kits, we've upgraded to multigrip rivets, which are even stronger and with a larger bulb on the back side of the sheetmetal. Those are not going to go anywhere.


ordered this morning.
ment to add the drill bit...is there a way to add it without adding another 6 in shipping ?

I wont get to the install for a bit...so no hurry on shipping if your tied up for the holiday weekend....just need to know
 
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Do you think the body mounts made a difference? Poly more firm versus OEM rubber bushings?


I’ve only driven it twice to work so far (24 miles one way), it doesn’t seem to want to roll as much in the corners and on/off ramps at speed. A few of the OEM mounts were cracked pretty good and weren’t doing their job anymore.

The new mounts also brought the left rear up about an 1/8’’ and the corresponding right front down an 1/8’’ (this was measured before I put the 10mm spacer in). Had to adjust the rubber hood stops to fix some new rattling caused by the body shift. And the tailgate has a different “sound” when closing if that makes sense.

I’m satisfied. I’m now running poly bushing in both the front and rear sway bars along with the body mounts. Don’t seem to notice any erroneous shaking/ratting that it didn’t do before. It’s a truck, it drives like one.
 
ordered this morning.
ment to add the drill bit...is there a way to add it without adding another 6 in shipping ?

I wont get to the install for a bit...so no hurry on shipping if your tied up for the holiday weekend....just need to know

No worries, drill bit added, package is on its way to you!
 
Just had to wash the thing first and then get started with simple stuff.

1) check suspension parts like the LbJ, CV boots, and bushings

2) change oil, front, rear, and transfer case fluids

3) install offroad lights but not the light bar yet

4) purchase and install transmission cooler

5) took the dog for a ride

6) pending - repair torn leather seat in rear and add leather steering wheel cover to replace oem cover.
 

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Popped my hood and found this. It looks like the top corners on both sides of the radiator have started to leak a tiny bit. A coolant change and a thorough examination of the radiator to try and determine age were already on my to do list, but I guess they need to move to the front of the line.

It looks like the Koyo A1998 is the OEM radiator, is there another option I should be looking at? I believe that if I go with any aftermarket radiator, I need to run a separate trans cooler? Are there any aftermarket radiators with the integrated trans cooler?



 
Finally installed a lift, went with the OME 881/906 with a 10mm spacer in the rear and nitrocharger shocks on all 4 corners. After one year of ownership it finally doesn't look like a saggy heap.

Are you planning on adding any after market weight to your rig? The rear for me is super stiff with a stock bumper and the 906s. Did you do anything else like the diff drop or brake line extenders?
 
Just had to wash the thing first and then get started with simple stuff.

1) check suspension parts like the LbJ, CV boots, and bushings

2) change oil, front, rear, and transfer case fluids

3) install offroad lights but not the light bar yet

4) purchase and install transmission cooler

5) took the dog for a ride

6) pending - repair torn leather seat in rear and add leather steering wheel cover to replace oem cover.

I am installing a b and m cooler today. Any tips?
 
Popped my hood and found this. It looks like the top corners on both sides of the radiator have started to leak a tiny bit. A coolant change and a thorough examination of the radiator to try and determine age were already on my to do list, but I guess they need to move to the front of the line.

It looks like the Koyo A1998 is the OEM radiator, is there another option I should be looking at? I believe that if I go with any aftermarket radiator, I need to run a separate trans cooler? Are there any aftermarket radiators with the integrated trans cooler?

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[url=https://flic.kr/p/2j4HzSy]


if you get a aftermarket...or any radiator....you specify if automatic and it should come with the trans cooler in radiator already. You dont HAVE to run a extra cooler...but lots of people do esp in warmer climates or lots of towing or hills or offroading
 
I like this and want to do something similar for my light bar and lights.

Do you have a link, or any tips for installation?

Thanks,

Eddie

Here's the switch panel I bought: Amazon.com: 6 Gang Switch Panel, Nirider Universal Circuit Control Box Button Switch Pod Touch Switch Box For Truck Jeep ATV UTV SUV Car: Automotive

I mounted the circuit box next to the current one in the engine bay on the drivers side using self tapping screws.
20200523-131227.jpg


From there, I used an add a circuit to connect the switch panel's power lead to the driving lights fuse slot. Easy peasy.
 
Terrific SeaBassHWD and thanks a million.

I really need to get off my be-hind and get my lights mounted and this just might be what makes me get off my lazy butt. :D


Eddie

Here's the switch panel I bought: Amazon.com: 6 Gang Switch Panel, Nirider Universal Circuit Control Box Button Switch Pod Touch Switch Box For Truck Jeep ATV UTV SUV Car: Automotive

I mounted the circuit box next to the current one in the engine bay on the drivers side using self tapping screws.
20200523-131227.jpg


From there, I used an add a circuit to connect the switch panel's power lead to the driving lights fuse slot. Easy peasy.
 
DRL and carpet

I removed the carpet and all seats and disabled my "DRL" Daytime running lights for those who are new to forum. Now I need someone to recommend where I can purchase quality carpet for 2001 4runner?
 
I swapped in some Power Stop rotors, then I had a rear e-brake bell crank get stuck in the "operation" mode. When I came to a stop light, I could smell brakes and thought that the brand new rotors were cooked already. When I touched that drivers rear wheel and felt the plastic center cap was soft to the touch, I knew I had a problem!

I ended up feeling like I was in an episode of 'Road Kill', fixing this turd with a few bare essential tools, a sketchy 3 ton horrible-freight bottle jack and a 4 way lug wrench. I had to buy a can of WD40 from a gas staion, but I got it working again. :madgrin:
 
whats the issue....maybe we can help. Also there are lots of 4runner people on the forums that live in Canada...maybe someone is near by that can help too.

this might help https://www.toyota-4runner.org/canadian-t4r-clubs-click-to-view-/

Thank you for that link! My issue is when I go to put the vehicle in reverse, it does not reverse (or engage?). It acts like its in neutral (but its in reverse). The engine just revs and the car does not move. This issue is random because sometimes I can go to reverse just fine... but then sometimes I have the issue. The way I solve it is to shift to the shifts (like Park, Drive, etc. or move a little forward).
Also, I have a code of P0755 (the solenoid in tranny). Im not sure if the P0755 code is linked to the reverse issue.
 
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