What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Wedgy
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Installed the Moog 81041 springs to fix the ~1.5" rear sag but they were just as saggy so I got Daystar KT09107BK 1.5" spacers and they are perfect. Also got better stands with a safety pin. Changed the JIS head interior grab handles to hex head. Made a little mount for the ARB actuator pump.
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Repairing a few issues from our annual wheeling/mountain biking/camping trip to Colorado and Utah.
First up - the motor mount. After doing some difficult rated trails around Moab (Rose Garden Hill):
Somewhere after that I noticed the gearshift (5sp manual) moving over more than normal in the lower gears with the pedal down.
As suspected - the driver side motor mount was broken. Nice failure mode, though. It has those 'side bumpers' - and if the rubber fails then one of them engages a sort of 'hat' that bolts over the mount from the engine side. So the engine tilts over more than normal, but not enough to break hoses/wires/dent the hood/etc.
I also mildly undid some 'adjustments' that occurred on the tailpipe - rebent the tailpipe hanger, scorched around some of the fittings, got the tailpipe off the frame.
I still need to replace the passenger side motor mount - even though it's not broken... Have half a thought to just leave it alone. And take the skids off and beat some straightness back into them. They're not too beat up - but the transfer case skid is bent up slightly and the transfer case is resting on it.
First up - the motor mount. After doing some difficult rated trails around Moab (Rose Garden Hill):
Somewhere after that I noticed the gearshift (5sp manual) moving over more than normal in the lower gears with the pedal down.
As suspected - the driver side motor mount was broken. Nice failure mode, though. It has those 'side bumpers' - and if the rubber fails then one of them engages a sort of 'hat' that bolts over the mount from the engine side. So the engine tilts over more than normal, but not enough to break hoses/wires/dent the hood/etc.
I also mildly undid some 'adjustments' that occurred on the tailpipe - rebent the tailpipe hanger, scorched around some of the fittings, got the tailpipe off the frame.
I still need to replace the passenger side motor mount - even though it's not broken... Have half a thought to just leave it alone. And take the skids off and beat some straightness back into them. They're not too beat up - but the transfer case skid is bent up slightly and the transfer case is resting on it.
I think I've finally found the right rack. It's from ISI in Australia. Very heavy-duty, and it holds the bikes high off the ground and snug in to the back end of the car. I was using a more conventional rack with two arms that stick out, but:
- newer bikes don't always have a once 'top tube' to hang from any more
- that style of rack chews up the bikes when driven on long bumpy dusty roads/trails
- that style also lets the bikes bang and chew on each other unless you're spending a silly amount of time adding extra straps and bungees to stop them
The new rack mostly holds them by the wheels, with a single padded hook holding the middle of the bike - quick to load. And the bikes don't touch each other or wiggle around. And if I tag a wall or ledge with the rack - the parts that will bend are cheap and easy to replace - the wheel tray and the crossbar they sit on - simple square tubing that is separate from the main part of the beam (slides through and is held with set screws).
This was the first year using it, it did *AWESOME*. Lots of moderate rated trails, a few difficult (such as Rose Garden Hill pictured above). I did actually bounce over and put the rack on a rock on a ledge further up, bent a wheel tray slightly, no damage to the bike (full suspension, so if a wheel gets pushed up, it's not a problem). I just bent it straight again by hand at the top.
It's all modular. I wish the hitch part had less drop to it (there are multiple choices on the height) but I had to clear the swingout. I clunked that pretty solidly in multiple places - but it's very hefty steel and no damage other than some missing powdercoat.
Bonus bike ride pic from "The Whole Enchilada' trail in Moab:
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Where did you get the material for the grill good sir?
6uam671_T4R
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What jack stands are those?
96 ToyRunner
Member
Got the original steering rack and brake booster replaced At 344,435 miles
Made the mistake of totaling up how much $money$ I've invested in the 4Runner. OUCH!! Oh well, I'd rather have a nearly $7,000 4wd than a $4,500 2wd. I'm still not done because my un-diagnosed OCD won't let me stop replacing parts.
go get a cheap wreck on copart and get your money back
Bikeric
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go get a cheap wreck on copart and get your money back
Those prices are from a Copart wrecked vehicle. I won the auction for $575, but after fees and shipping from Ohio (much more than quoted BTW) the total was $2,300 when it got to my door. I removed the transmission, transfer case, front diff and driveshafts. I sold the roller for $1,000. The driveshafts were just too rusty for me to want to use, so I had a new front one made and the rear re-worked.
I was wondering how pricey it would be out the door. I want to get a wreck someday when I get the space, I think I'll try to find something local, maybe tow myself.
Wedgy
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6uam671_T4R
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Sweet! Thanks
Smog-guy707
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Just pulled the intake manifold out today looking for a mystery coolant leak, but it wasn't there! May be a freeze plug on the firewall side
Not to be a bad news bear but I just replaced one behind the flex plate ( freeze plug)
Had to remove the transmission and flex plate and engine plate to get it out
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mikeferg
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