What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[daftwager]

TBU Dilemna

Spent the day figuring out 13WE v 13WL.

I have the split 6 spoke wheels so I cannot do 13WL without spacers or new wheels and therefore new tyres.

So now im sat here with a dilemna. Options are
- 231mm with spacers
- 199mm without

Thoughts greately appreciated.

 

[84shovel]

Plugs, wires, tranny fluid, front and rear diff, transfer case, power steering flush. Coolant flush.

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[Smog-guy707]

Spent the day figuring out 13WE v 13WL.

I have the split 6 spoke wheels so I cannot do 13WL without spacers or new wheels and therefore new tyres.

So now im sat here with a dilemna. Options are
- 231mm with spacers
- 199mm without

Thoughts greately appreciated.

Go with the bigger brakes. Significant improvement over stock. Especially if you ever tow anything

Plus the wheel spacers will give it a nice look


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[calimobber]

Spent the day figuring out 13WE v 13WL.

I have the split 6 spoke wheels so I cannot do 13WL without spacers or new wheels and therefore new tyres.

So now im sat here with a dilemna. Options are
- 231mm with spacers
- 199mm without

Thoughts greately appreciated.

I hate wheel spacers. Just go with 199 if you must. I did the 231 5 years ago and mostly regret it. Im tired of the extra travel on the brake pedel thats needed. Tried everything and it still is the longest throw ever. The stock master cyclinder isnt setup for the large brakes.

 

[JBurt]

Spent the day figuring out 13WE v 13WL.

I have the split 6 spoke wheels so I cannot do 13WL without spacers or new wheels and therefore new tyres.

So now im sat here with a dilemna. Options are
- 231mm with spacers
- 199mm without

Thoughts greately appreciated.

I have the same wheels and went with the 231's. For the first year or so I went with extended wheel studs and cheap ($15ish) spacers from pepboys. I hated them. With hubcentric wheels it was impossible to line them up every time you did a rotation or something. So I bit the bullit and went back to stock length lugs with .75" BORA spacers. No problems no. The only drawback is that it is one more thing to do when replacing a CV axle on a trail. FWIW my brake pedal stroke is the same as it was before, but I know a lot of people have that problem.

 

[daftwager]

I have the same wheels and went with the 231's. For the first year or so I went with extended wheel studs and cheap ($15ish) spacers from pepboys. I hated them. With hubcentric wheels it was impossible to line them up every time you did a rotation or something. So I bit the bullit and went back to stock length lugs with .75" BORA spacers. No problems no. The only drawback is that it is one more thing to do when replacing a CV axle on a trail. FWIW my brake pedal stroke is the same as it was before, but I know a lot of people have that problem.

Thank you for taking the time to answer my post and to others further up.

I have decided to go with the 231 and will be therefore using spacers. I have researched and understood the risks with this option so feel like I am making an informed decision.

I will make a post with the outcome and my thoughts. It was also interesting that speccing out the 199mm was not as simple as I had thought. Seems to be more details on 231 in general.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Changed my silver cladding to body color (Natural White). Very happy with the new look:

 

[3bears]

Changed my silver cladding to body color (Natural White). Very happy with the new look:

I think that looks a lot better too. Did you repaint the entire truck or just the cladding ?

 

[MagusWyatt]

Changed my silver cladding to body color (Natural White). Very happy with the new look:

Oh yeah, that looks really nice. Much cleaner. I like the look of blacked out cladding with certain colors, but probably not with white. This looks clean and subtly aggressive. Nice work.

 

[alostdawg]

Installed front diff with ARB & 4.56s.

 

[JCruz]

installed new rear drums.

While I had the car on jack stands I inspected the underneath.


Got an oil leak somewhere on the engine, I was able to snug the valve covers a bit, bolts were a little loose.

Rear swaybar end links are junk.

Steering rack is leaking.

Shocks and springs are worn out, I can see that the stop has been hitting the axle.

And my left rear axle seal is leaking.


Oof. The 4runner has 248k on it and it looks like it has every single maintenance issue a 4runner can have. Not sure if I will continue to fix it, or if ill sell it, or just drive it into the ground. I dont think it's worth spending the time/money to continue working on it just to have a head gasket pop and leave me with 7 or 8 grand wrapped up in a 20 year old worn out truck.

:help:

 

[mikeferg]

installed new rear drums.

While I had the car on jack stands I inspected the underneath.


Got an oil leak somewhere on the engine, I was able to snug the valve covers a bit, bolts were a little loose.

Rear swaybar end links are junk.

Steering rack is leaking.

Shocks and springs are worn out, I can see that the stop has been hitting the axle.

And my left rear axle seal is leaking.


Oof. The 4runner has 248k on it and it looks like it has every single maintenance issue a 4runner can have. Not sure if I will continue to fix it, or if ill sell it, or just drive it into the ground. I dont think it's worth spending the time/money to continue working on it just to have a head gasket pop and leave me with 7 or 8 grand wrapped up in a 20 year old worn out truck.

:help:

It what happens when it's not maintained, it gets to the point its overwhelming.

 

[JBurt]

installed new rear drums.

While I had the car on jack stands I inspected the underneath.


Got an oil leak somewhere on the engine, I was able to snug the valve covers a bit, bolts were a little loose.

Rear swaybar end links are junk.

Steering rack is leaking.

Shocks and springs are worn out, I can see that the stop has been hitting the axle.

And my left rear axle seal is leaking.


Oof. The 4runner has 248k on it and it looks like it has every single maintenance issue a 4runner can have. Not sure if I will continue to fix it, or if ill sell it, or just drive it into the ground. I dont think it's worth spending the time/money to continue working on it just to have a head gasket pop and leave me with 7 or 8 grand wrapped up in a 20 year old worn out truck.

:help:

But being where you are (St. George maybe?) It's a rust free truck. Most of the things you described are cheap if you do the work yourself. You just get to figure out if you want to work on your car, or work to afford a car payment. Good luck either way. One answer isn't always the best.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I think that looks a lot better too. Did you repaint the entire truck or just the cladding ?

Thanks! I paid them to paint the cladding and driver side fender and front door (both had prior damage). They did a good job painting those, but managed to scratch the hood, passenger quarter, and passenger front door - so they ended up repainting those as well.

 

[JCruz]

But being where you are (St. George maybe?) It's a rust free truck. Most of the things you described are cheap if you do the work yourself. You just get to figure out if you want to work on your car, or work to afford a car payment. Good luck either way. One answer isn't always the best.

Mostly rust free.


I spoke to a mechanic in St George, he said hes done tons of the valve cover gaskets, hed do them for ~$450. So I decided to do it. He also said the rear axle seal would be ~$300, he says he does so many of them he built a jig to make it faster.

I think those prices are super good, so he may just have saved me from selling it.

 

[Smog-guy707]

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[thobry]

I finished replacing my front rotors, pads, rear drums, shoes and rear cylinders with R1 Concepts brakes. I opted for the slotted and drilled rotors. Everything is good as new.

 

[Xjazzwreck11]

You are a brave person for trusting amazon products that deep in the engine.

For me it's OEM from the dealer unless the labor to change it again is like 5 minutes and the part is not critical. I've got moog sway bar links and that's about it.

Don't worry it was OEM off amazon. It was very obvious where the leak was from when I took the old camshaft seal out... must have started tapping it in before I seated it with my hands, or it was dark, who knows. But fixed now and running 100%!

 

[JCruz]

Ok, The mechanic looked the truck over. he said the only thing he could find was the oil plug. They were using a metal washer that wont seal. He replaced it with a rubber coated aluminum and it doesn't leak. he said valve covers are seeping but not leaking, and not to worry about them.

He did however find some rotten swaybar bushings front and rear, steering rack bushings and a broken front brake line bracket. He will be repairing those.

$430 - for the oil plug, all the bushings, and the inspection. he charges $100/hr and at least I'm confident the truck was properly checked out by a mechanic who knows 4Runners and Land Cruisers.

 

[SeaBassHWD]

After a long 10 weeks, these finally arrived

A day after, these arrived from Savage (after 7 weeks):

Going to be a long week ahead of prepping, painting, welding, and installing.