What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Bled my P/S system...again. Just replaced rack and pinion and now have pump whine. Put in the Napa branded AFT 1 week ago (bled per FSM and also cleaned reservoir filter) and it was already black when I changed to Castrol Transmax IMV today, seems to be better for now. I'll know tomorrow in the AM when I start it as that's when it seems to be when it's the worst. All else fails I'm headed to the junkyard for a swapper.

Also worked on a 3D print project for the 96-98 crowd to fill up some overhead dead space...

TAKE MY MONEY!!!

Ahem. But seriously, that looks like a great idea. I'd be interested to learn more and go on a list to buy one.
 
Installed a new set of spherical bearings on the bottom end of my Radflo shocks. About 4 or 5 years old, my wife noticed a bit of wear on one side while looking for a clunk. Not sure if that was the source of the clunk, but they were sure ready to be swapped. About an hour of time and just under $40 to repalce them on both sides.
 
Those are pretty swanky man. I appreciate what you're after. If you keep that format though is it safe to say you won't be going offroad with it? I'm after ways to update the look of mine too.

I like the projectors but something about a stock headlight assembly for me can't be beat.


Thanks for taking a look! The headlights are original just swapped bulbs to LEDs. Keep the light color uniform you know? I'm a little OCD :D

The offroad comment is in reference to how low the DRLs are? They are a little higher than where the stock skid plate up front hits so my goal is to offroad it. I guess we'll see how the trail treats it!!
 
Put some 4th gen 5160's in to keep up with the 210v's. The base mount is wider than the 5100's, but the bushing is a different design, so they ended up having roughly a similar gap between the mount post on the axle and bolt. The 5160's are perfect (so far) for these springs! Firm to the point where it got rid of most of the body roll that came with the sway bar deletes, but soaks up all of the road still.

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I also trimmed the limited flares up front because my 255/75/17 Duratracs were rubbing during braking in a turn after removing the sway bar. it wasn't hitting much and considering I'll be putting a new bumper on in the coming months I don't mind hacking this one.

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Found this little gem in one of the tires, too...

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I angered the forum gods and got a shipment of unrecommended parts. If things don't work out well it's only time and money... :ohwell: I've had good luck with Moog and ACDelco on other rigs.

Untitled by 99blkx, on Flickr

My only regret is that after a few beers I ordered the wrong tie rod ends. I'll install these because of time constraints but I ended up with Economy and intended for Daily Driver. My vehicular ADD means if these bits make it through the winter I'll be on to the next one soon...
 
I angered the forum gods and got a shipment of unrecommended parts. If things don't work out well it's only time and money... :ohwell: I've had good luck with Moog and ACDelco on other rigs.

Untitled by 99blkx, on Flickr

My only regret is that after a few beers I ordered the wrong tie rod ends. I'll install these because of time constraints but I ended up with Economy and intended for Daily Driver. My vehicular ADD means if these bits make it through the winter I'll be on to the next one soon...
looks like you will be doing the whole front end, that should make for a nice ride. I have friends that havve no problem with aftermarket parts and they do save a bit of money. Me, I would have stuck with OEM lower ball joints, the rest....who knows..
 
Replaced the crappy cold air intake/K&N air filter that was killing my MAFs with a stock airbox out of a wrecked 4runner.

Its amazing how much better it runs.
 
Added another coating and rinsed Autogym Magma to get iron particles off. Looks way better not so yellow. New to me not sure on lift but rear sits at 37.5" to top wheel well. Sits on 265 75 16 tires which need replacing. Looking at 285's
 

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Since im going to Idyllwild for christmas, my wife wants to take the 4runner since it has 4wd and last year it snowed like crazy up there.

So, time to refresh the suspension!

All the control arms were done a few months ago, now I need to replace the squishy/bouncy bits.

Im gonna drop it off next week to my Yota' mechanic and have him do a full tune up too.
 

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I was planning on putting in my SRQ turn signals today but can NOT find my multimeter for the life of me. Anybody know if the white wire is pos or neg?
 
I was planning on putting in my SRQ turn signals today but can NOT find my multimeter for the life of me. Anybody know if the white wire is pos or neg?

Front turn signals usually have Y-G or G-Y as positive, and W-B as negative. W-B is almost always a ground wire in our trucks.
 
Started the transgo 340-hd-2 shift kit install. Everything is done and installed just need the fipg to cure. So tomorrow will be the flush/fill and test drive. I have the type 3 valve body and type B accumulator pistons, I also opted to do the low gear hold option (keeps trans is 1st gear when in the L position). Only part of it that was a real pain was getting the 2, 3, and 4th accumulator piston springs out. I have the "B" type that have the retainers holding the lower spring on. Tip for anyone doing this, use tons of assembly goop to hold the gear pistons and springs in place. Wear a face shield when working under the trans. I did get covered in tranny fluid. I crossed my T's and dotted my i's, im hoping there are no issues. Trans fluid was pretty dirty. Here are some pics.

Yep this was my Thanksgiving day for me. I had fun! Also this long weekend I'll finish rebuilding the mustang rear calipers and start the front tundra caliper rebuilds. Gotta get my brake upgrade/rear disc swap done.
 

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Finished up the shift kit install. Flushed the remaining fluid (13 total quarts). Then installed a new magnafine inline filter. Test drove it and damn, this is exactly how it should be! So nice, short and crisp shifts. Seems temps are a bit lower too. Very smooth. I'm 100% satisfied, I should have done this sooner (been sitting on this for a half a year).
 
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Replaced the wipers to OEM and picked up some bulbs when I get motivated to pull out the instrument cluster...
 

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Decided that since the mechanic was already going to be doing the suspension, I ordered 2 new OEM lower ball joints and the flanged bolts.


Looking back, so far I have:

$4000 - Price of 4runner

$2132.22 - Brakes and Control arms

$160.31 - Fluids and exhaust repair

$75 - ECGS Bushing

$85 - Driver side CV Axle

$88 - MAF

$125 - Replacement Stock Air Box (Had a crappy Cold Air Intake on it)

$15 - Upper Air Hose

$299 - OEM lower ball joints

$572 - New springs, new bilstein 4600 shocks/struts

Not including labor on the instal of the ball joints or springs/shocks...

Around $7500 invested in this thing so far.

Id be lucky to get $6k for it if I sold it hahahaha.
 
Finally got around to installing the JBA UCA's

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I truly underestimated just how much fighting I'd have to do to get the ball joint press-in adapters in; this one-day job turned into two and I may have cooked my impact in the process, lol. Pretty sure I also did something to at least one of the ABS speed sensors from stretching because one of the front wheels trips it (without the ABS light) when braking and low speeds. It's somewhat random when it does decide to engage (i.e. flex, low speed corners, straight line medium pedal pressure), so I'm going to pull the sensors and clean them just in case that may help. Additionally, I got done too late to get an alignment, so I don't know if that is factoring into this.

Driving it back from my shop (about 7 miles) it felt great! The old UCA's and their bushings looked like they were the original, which most likely explains the excessive bump-steer; that is now a thing of the past! Overall, I'm happy with them already and I've learned from my mistakes along the way... and there were a whole lot of them.
 
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Finally got around to installing the JBA UCA's

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I truly underestimated just how much fighting I'd have to do to get the ball joint press-in adapters in; this one-day job turned into two and I may have cooked my impact in the process, lol. Pretty sure I also did something to at least one of the ABS speed sensors from stretching because one of the front wheels trips it (without the ABS light) when braking and low speeds. It's somewhat random when it does decide to engage (i.e. flex, low speed corners, straight line medium pedal pressure), so I'm going to pull the sensors and clean them just in case that may help. Additionally, I got done too late to get an alignment, so I don't know if that is factoring into this.

Driving it back from my shop (about 7 miles) it felt great! The old UCA's and their bushings looked like they were the original, which most likely explains the excessive bump-steer; that is now a thing of the past! Overall, I'm happy with them already and I've learned from my mistakes along the way... and there were a whole lot of them.

Same thing happened w/ my ABS after getting the lift kit put on, still haven't figured it out.

Meanwhile, today was deckplate mod along w/ getting ready to put the air raid system in plus some rough draft of my wiring plans.
 

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