What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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My 4Runner came with over 14 years of service records and none suggest the spark plugs were ever changed :noidea:

Just bought some OEM plugs and NGK wires and went to town. The driver side rear plug did not require any removal of brackets or tubing and I was able to get an extension in there and into the plug without issues.
<a href="https://ibb.co/qCrWjrG"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/hcmZ9m5/20201221-103424.jpg" alt="20201221-103424" border="0"></a>


Okay, so these are not OEM so it has been changed but never documented. They're NGK's and look like they've been in there for a while:
<a href="https://ibb.co/98wD1y1"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/xCmkBzB/20201221-104539.jpg" alt="20201221-104539" border="0"></a>

The intake tubing had to be removed for the passenger side but this was such an easy install compared to my 2nd gen that was covered with vacuum tubes on the passenger side:
<a href="https://ibb.co/vVzghZN"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/WGKq0gr/20201221-105855.jpg" alt="20201221-105855" border="0"></a>

I hear that these engines eat plugs up pretty fast if it's a single gap. I'm happy to be replacing the NGK's with OEM dual gaps:
<a href="https://ibb.co/XzMcdqJ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/dQx83RK/20201221-110143.jpg" alt="20201221-110143" border="0"></a>

And in less than 30 minutes, we're back in action:
<a href="https://ibb.co/Fb295xP"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/xSWy1C4/20201221-112149.jpg" alt="20201221-112149" border="0"></a>

*Just took it for a spin and it already feels better. *While I was in there, I noticed that the PVC grommet/valve looked old and that's going to be on my list for when I also look into the timing belt and water pump. :pimp:


shawnathan9 That's one clean engine bay!! love it
 
I recently bought my 4Runner and was making sure suspension components were tightened. Am i supposed to be able to turn the pan-hard by hand? Its rotating at the rod ends.

131929505_10158752268858704_1832456134317657262_o.jpg

Unless you're adjusting the length you shouldn't be able to move it with your hangs. You just need to tighten down the jam nuts on both end so you can't move it.
 
Hauled a couple hundred boxes around while hopping over snow drifts, un-plowed driveways and roads... currently working as a seasonal delivery driver in New England to pay the bills, and that 4 wheel drive and large amount of space makes for a winning combo!
 
Unless you're adjusting the length you shouldn't be able to move it with your hangs. You just need to tighten down the jam nuts on both end so you can't move it.


the tube part of the bar wont turn once the jam nuts are tightened, but the ball joints will still rotate easily.

This part
20F975_AS01
 
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Today I'm sourcing rust-free donor frames for a swap!! :shrug: I think I found a good one... :thumb3:
 

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I guess this is more a What I did WITH my 4Runner.

Regardless, I took it out to try and get a shot of the Jupiter/Saturn Conjunction.

For my first time trying astrophotography I think it came out well.

Equipment: 1980's Towa Swift 856 --Prime focus with 3x Barlow Sony a6000 Mirrorless Camera--

50747191928_0e38c2f749_z.jpg
[/url]Conjuntion shot[/IMG]


Also got a sick shot of the moon
50747935376_0f7aa57658_z.jpg
[/url]Moon High Res [/IMG]

Here's the setup...
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[/url]DSC00268[/IMG]

I am pretty please with the pics.
 
OK, so I found and acquired an exact match rust-free donor frame! :guitar2:

I'm going to try to get to my reply quota so I can start a new thread to hopefully post some before/after of the work.
 
I did some more maintenance. Air filter, PCV valve, fuel filter and AC idler pulley. Now i know the AC compressor is making the noise. It makes no noise when the AC compressor is on/engaged but when its off it sounds like metal rubbing against metal. The ac works fine too.

Does the whole compressor need to be replaced or just a bearing?

Here is a thread where someone else asked the same thing, but didnt get an answer

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...und-like-c-compressor-clutch.html#post3582711
 
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Some More switch work (switch panels, switches, and rockers from OTR).

<a href="https://imgur.com/aRLY15H"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/aRLY15Hl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/2RbYFzB"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/2RbYFzBl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/yzqSwi9"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/yzqSwi9l.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/6EcAI69"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/6EcAI69l.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Finally got my paranoid DIN switchplate and the new radio connected together as a single unit so that they could be re-installed.

<a href="https://imgur.com/8xUhSKD"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8xUhSKDl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
Scored a set of OEM 5-spoke Sequoia/Tundra wheels. They came with brand new Pathfinder A/T tires on them (Hankook Dynapro clones) which probably wouldn't have been my first choice, but they're so much lighter than the 10-ply KO2s and ride so much better.

970EEDF6-3294-4893-9E24-8E219043D362 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/140393666@N08/, on Flickr

1BF2CF00-D933-448C-9857-D24719163B85 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/140393666@N08/, on Flickr

Also changed my oil with my helper!

7DB3151A-EAB5-4B86-B873-3097A627D534 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/140393666@N08/, on Flickr

113C7F74-CB81-4017-AD19-B7E90915164A by https://www.flickr.com/photos/140393666@N08/, on Flickr
 
yesterday and today,
in a search for a P306 in my new to me 2001, ran rough, bought cheap.
did that chemical test of radiator to see if any exhaust gas present and nope, then proceeded to a leak down test, compression test ( all pretty good, only one off by 5 psi),
pulled out AC/Delco single electrode plugs that PO shop had put in, so figured it was worth investing into this rig. and replaced with dual electrode NGK, new NGK wires, and tested the coils and the suspect one was out of spec, so replaced it. New coil boots for the 2 older coils, new one came as 1 piece. New PCV, new air filter, new fuel filter, radiator flush ( radiator was good for only to minus 10, not good here) , new radiator cap, oil change., cleaned throttle body and MAF.. LED dome light bulbs, major clean of inside. Had to use an autozone coil as no time to order NGK or Denso. ( parts and parts stores are pretty limited up here)
Today, Christmas, after all the family morning fun, spent a few hours buttoning things up, took it for a drive and ran great. Idled smooth No codes after 20 minute drive. Guess thats my christmas present to me. I knew the car was a gamble when I bought it. Looks like I lucked out. I was prepared for the worst.
 
OK, so I found and acquired an exact match rust-free donor frame! :guitar2:

I'm going to try to get to my reply quota so I can start a new thread to hopefully post some before/after of the work.

is yours that nice red one you shared earlier?
 
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