Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Can you clarify that? I think I get the acronym but don't see anything like that on Toytec.
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
- Thread starter pin8246
- Start date
- Status
Can you clarify that? I think I get the acronym but don't see anything like that on Toytec.
Breaker Bar
Member
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Thanks !
MLHooker47
New member
My wife and I spent 6 hours on paint correction.
Wash/Clay/Touch Up Paint/Compound/Wax. My arm hurts, but it looks better. That single stage white paint is a *****.
Wash/Clay/Touch Up Paint/Compound/Wax. My arm hurts, but it looks better. That single stage white paint is a *****.
MLHooker47
New member
Threw on my new set of wheels and tires, and yanked off the factory running boards. Looks so much cleaner now.
98snowrunner
New member
shawnathan9
New member
Installed a back up camera the right way.
After much debate about how I should go about an install for a back up camera, I finally decided to try a camera that looks as OEM as possible and route it through the rear hatch and through the rubber tubes leading into the headliner and then routed through the B pillar, through the lower moldings and then into the stereo.
To get it all started, I selected an aftermarket back up camera that looks as OEM as possible and a affordable Android 7" touch screen to get the job done since the price allowed for it to be upgraded later should I agree with the camera set up I run through the rig.
Camera: NATIKA Backup/Front View Camera
<a href="https://ibb.co/b6RwKcx"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/fXG6xjb/Natika-camera.jpg" alt="Natika-camera" border="0"></a>
A cheap Android 7" double din on Amazon (This is cheap enough to pass on to my nephew should I have an urge to upgrade due to any functionality issues): Amazon.com: ANKEWAY 7 Inch Android 9.1 Car Stereo with HiFi+WiFi+Bluetooth+GPS+RDS+FM, 2021 New Double Din Car Radio 1080P HD Touch Screen Multimedia Player+Mirror Link(Android/iOS)+Rearview Camera+Dual USB: GPS & Navigation
*The first thing you'll want to do is to remove the back door trim so you can begin your journey to access the rear door innards where you'll later guide your back up camera wiring. It helps to have a service manual to understand what parts should be removed.
<a href="https://ibb.co/wRcz2ks"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/9NZrdDt/20210105-211202.jpg" alt="20210105-211202" border="0"></a>
Note: The factory manual will tell you to take apart everything but you can actually do this with minimal disassembly; You don't have to remove the rear window, regulator, or hatch handles at all.
The first thing you'll want to do is to remove the plastic cover from the hatch hoop that's located on the back door trim:
<a href="https://ibb.co/L542tk8"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/k1YW8Hx/20210105-210935.jpg" alt="20210105-210935" border="0"></a>
Next, you'll want to use a trim remover tool, or a small screw driver with tape, to avoid any damage to your parts, and pry up and remove the back door trim which is only held in place with 10 plastic tension clips which can be referenced in the previous picture of the service manual shown above. - Once the 10 clips are unfastened, you'll want to use some pressure and push the back trim as if you were pushing it upward in the direction the window would close up. It's only held in by tension so it will not break anything:
<a href="https://ibb.co/CVTm0Ft"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/SV95vpx/20210105-205909.jpg" alt="20210105-205909" border="0"></a>
Once removed, you'll have access to a black plate where you'll want to disconnect the electrical connections and also associated mounts from their respective points. *If you don't remove them, they'll keep that black plate dangling onto the back door because you'll want to remove that plate in the next step. So, take your time to unplug and unmount those connections and wires:
<a href="https://ibb.co/TDGZ24R"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HLy04tY/20210105-212216.jpg" alt="20210105-212216" border="0"></a>
There will be several bronze colored screws that hold down the black plate and then you'll want to gentle pry between the plastic fasteners and the black plate will pop off:
<a href="https://ibb.co/HFN0ZCk"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/j6Vdtz1/20210105-212415.jpg" alt="20210105-212415" border="0"></a>
Once removed, you'll have access to the inside of the back door. This was necessary for the application as I want to mount the camera onto the back door trim next to the license plate lights. I chose the right side as there appears to be an opening behind it whilst the left side was sealed closed:
<a href="https://ibb.co/HNSGskc"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/dbTkqzN/20210105-221702.jpg" alt="20210105-221702" border="0"></a>
This provided enough space to drill a hole into the back door in a place where it will not be noticeable should I choose to remove this one day:
<a href="https://ibb.co/pxLPtrM"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/dr5cdJV/20210105-223542.jpg" alt="20210105-223542" border="0"></a>
After choosing the position of where I want to mount the camera, I selected a few drill bits that match the size of my camera's mounting bolt and the wiring that needs to be led into the rear door:
<a href="https://ibb.co/c1chwSJ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HVDTCf7/20210105-224713.jpg" alt="20210105-224713" border="0"></a>
I checked the hole which I drilled through the back door and found that it was positioned in area that will not impede on the glass windows path when it lowers down. Now, I began to install the camera and hope that it fits as intended:
<a href="https://ibb.co/RBw8jy4"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/fnwJDvG/20210105-225341.jpg" alt="20210105-225341" border="0"></a>
The area to work was too small for a wrench so I used a pair of long nosed pliers to fasten the nut onto the back up camera bolt and then finished leading the wires through the back door (tape some electric tape on the plastic trip to avoid any rubbing with your pliers:
<a href="https://ibb.co/brY1Sy2"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/FBc6Sf0/20210105-230001.jpg" alt="20210105-230001" border="0"></a>
From here, I used an abundant amount of gasket sealer and covered the area where I drilled so as to prevent any expose to weather conditions and to act as a buffer against any rubbing that the wire could have elsewise encountered:
<a href="https://ibb.co/z4ShCxB"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/BCgVv3Q/20210105-231402.jpg" alt="20210105-231402" border="0"></a>
Now that I was satisfied of how the camera sits in an OEM style position and it has the OEM look, I gave it a final torque to tighten it and reinstalled the right driver license light back into to place and moved to snaking the camera wire in the door latch.
You'll find there's just enough hand space to guide that wire within the right side of the door assembly and there will be door latch wire that you can use to zip tie your camera wire against. (If you pay attention, you'll realize that door latch wire must not be in the way of the window so you can simply use that as a guide to how you'll want to guide your camera wire through the back of your door:
<a href="https://ibb.co/FJfT2bs"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/2PL4x78/20210105-232222.jpg" alt="20210105-232222" border="0"></a>
Once you zip tied your cable toward the right of the door, set the wire aside and look up and you'll see the rubber boot that is covering the wires that lead into your chassis.
You'll want to lead your camera wiring through this boot so you don not cause any wear and exposure of elements to the wiring. To get started, you'll need access to the chassis end of the boot.
To do this, you'll need to remove the bottom plastic retainer panel of your trunk as that holds the side trim in place and you won't be able to pop off your side trim until you remove this piece:
<a href="https://ibb.co/jvKr6cq"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/C5dH1k4/20210105-205220.jpg" alt="20210105-205220" border="0"></a>
Next, remove your rear door light the screws within will keep the upper plastic panel in place:
<a href="https://ibb.co/rZfrSwt"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/9q35Lrv/20210105-205853.jpg" alt="20210105-205853" border="0"></a>
Once removed, you can pop off your upper panel using that trim remover tool:
<a href="https://ibb.co/WWgcWss"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/SXRKXJJ/20210105-205858.jpg" alt="20210105-205858" border="0"></a>
You should now have access to your wiring within the chassis side of the rubber boot:
<a href="https://ibb.co/dW77sB5"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/BzwwHLC/20210105-211003.jpg" alt="20210105-211003" border="0"></a>
*If your back up camera wiring is like this one, it comes in two parts; One part is directly connected to the camera and has an end that has a connector. This is the part you've been leading through the back door. The other wire the kit comes with is an extension that leads to your stereo and this is also has a leads that'll connect to your reverse light so you can active the camera.
Next, I moved on to lead the wire extension through the rubber boot that connects the chassis to the rear door.
*Caution: Removing this may cause you to break the plastic retaining fastener and you may have to use gasket sealer to secure the existing boot as you'll have a hell of a time trying to remount the OEM boot back into place.
Next, I unplugged both ends of the rubber boot and also a middle plastic retainer clip and then lead the wiring through the chassis side, through the boot, and out to the rear door side:
<a href="https://ibb.co/VW73qVk"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/nsHRLrK/20210105-232502.jpg" alt="20210105-232502" border="0"></a>
I found a hollow metal tube lying around the work area. I lead the entire wire through the tube until the connecter tip, the one that is supposed to connect to the previous wire that we were leading through the back door, was at the end of the hollow tube. I used some silicone to lube up the tube and then inserted it through the boot and pushed it through until it, and the wire connector, both pushed through the end that leads to the back door:
Hollow tube:
<a href="https://ibb.co/mJK77q5"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/v1W88P4/20210105-234435.jpg" alt="20210105-234435" border="0"></a>
Wires successfully snaked through the rubber boot:
<a href="https://ibb.co/Lg33FQT"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/1XkkgsC/20210105-234447.jpg" alt="20210105-234447" border="0"></a>
..continued
After much debate about how I should go about an install for a back up camera, I finally decided to try a camera that looks as OEM as possible and route it through the rear hatch and through the rubber tubes leading into the headliner and then routed through the B pillar, through the lower moldings and then into the stereo.
To get it all started, I selected an aftermarket back up camera that looks as OEM as possible and a affordable Android 7" touch screen to get the job done since the price allowed for it to be upgraded later should I agree with the camera set up I run through the rig.
Camera: NATIKA Backup/Front View Camera
<a href="https://ibb.co/b6RwKcx"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/fXG6xjb/Natika-camera.jpg" alt="Natika-camera" border="0"></a>
A cheap Android 7" double din on Amazon (This is cheap enough to pass on to my nephew should I have an urge to upgrade due to any functionality issues): Amazon.com: ANKEWAY 7 Inch Android 9.1 Car Stereo with HiFi+WiFi+Bluetooth+GPS+RDS+FM, 2021 New Double Din Car Radio 1080P HD Touch Screen Multimedia Player+Mirror Link(Android/iOS)+Rearview Camera+Dual USB: GPS & Navigation
*The first thing you'll want to do is to remove the back door trim so you can begin your journey to access the rear door innards where you'll later guide your back up camera wiring. It helps to have a service manual to understand what parts should be removed.
<a href="https://ibb.co/wRcz2ks"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/9NZrdDt/20210105-211202.jpg" alt="20210105-211202" border="0"></a>
Note: The factory manual will tell you to take apart everything but you can actually do this with minimal disassembly; You don't have to remove the rear window, regulator, or hatch handles at all.
The first thing you'll want to do is to remove the plastic cover from the hatch hoop that's located on the back door trim:
<a href="https://ibb.co/L542tk8"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/k1YW8Hx/20210105-210935.jpg" alt="20210105-210935" border="0"></a>
Next, you'll want to use a trim remover tool, or a small screw driver with tape, to avoid any damage to your parts, and pry up and remove the back door trim which is only held in place with 10 plastic tension clips which can be referenced in the previous picture of the service manual shown above. - Once the 10 clips are unfastened, you'll want to use some pressure and push the back trim as if you were pushing it upward in the direction the window would close up. It's only held in by tension so it will not break anything:
<a href="https://ibb.co/CVTm0Ft"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/SV95vpx/20210105-205909.jpg" alt="20210105-205909" border="0"></a>
Once removed, you'll have access to a black plate where you'll want to disconnect the electrical connections and also associated mounts from their respective points. *If you don't remove them, they'll keep that black plate dangling onto the back door because you'll want to remove that plate in the next step. So, take your time to unplug and unmount those connections and wires:
<a href="https://ibb.co/TDGZ24R"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HLy04tY/20210105-212216.jpg" alt="20210105-212216" border="0"></a>
There will be several bronze colored screws that hold down the black plate and then you'll want to gentle pry between the plastic fasteners and the black plate will pop off:
<a href="https://ibb.co/HFN0ZCk"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/j6Vdtz1/20210105-212415.jpg" alt="20210105-212415" border="0"></a>
Once removed, you'll have access to the inside of the back door. This was necessary for the application as I want to mount the camera onto the back door trim next to the license plate lights. I chose the right side as there appears to be an opening behind it whilst the left side was sealed closed:
<a href="https://ibb.co/HNSGskc"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/dbTkqzN/20210105-221702.jpg" alt="20210105-221702" border="0"></a>
This provided enough space to drill a hole into the back door in a place where it will not be noticeable should I choose to remove this one day:
<a href="https://ibb.co/pxLPtrM"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/dr5cdJV/20210105-223542.jpg" alt="20210105-223542" border="0"></a>
After choosing the position of where I want to mount the camera, I selected a few drill bits that match the size of my camera's mounting bolt and the wiring that needs to be led into the rear door:
<a href="https://ibb.co/c1chwSJ"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HVDTCf7/20210105-224713.jpg" alt="20210105-224713" border="0"></a>
I checked the hole which I drilled through the back door and found that it was positioned in area that will not impede on the glass windows path when it lowers down. Now, I began to install the camera and hope that it fits as intended:
<a href="https://ibb.co/RBw8jy4"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/fnwJDvG/20210105-225341.jpg" alt="20210105-225341" border="0"></a>
The area to work was too small for a wrench so I used a pair of long nosed pliers to fasten the nut onto the back up camera bolt and then finished leading the wires through the back door (tape some electric tape on the plastic trip to avoid any rubbing with your pliers:
<a href="https://ibb.co/brY1Sy2"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/FBc6Sf0/20210105-230001.jpg" alt="20210105-230001" border="0"></a>
From here, I used an abundant amount of gasket sealer and covered the area where I drilled so as to prevent any expose to weather conditions and to act as a buffer against any rubbing that the wire could have elsewise encountered:
<a href="https://ibb.co/z4ShCxB"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/BCgVv3Q/20210105-231402.jpg" alt="20210105-231402" border="0"></a>
Now that I was satisfied of how the camera sits in an OEM style position and it has the OEM look, I gave it a final torque to tighten it and reinstalled the right driver license light back into to place and moved to snaking the camera wire in the door latch.
You'll find there's just enough hand space to guide that wire within the right side of the door assembly and there will be door latch wire that you can use to zip tie your camera wire against. (If you pay attention, you'll realize that door latch wire must not be in the way of the window so you can simply use that as a guide to how you'll want to guide your camera wire through the back of your door:
<a href="https://ibb.co/FJfT2bs"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/2PL4x78/20210105-232222.jpg" alt="20210105-232222" border="0"></a>
Once you zip tied your cable toward the right of the door, set the wire aside and look up and you'll see the rubber boot that is covering the wires that lead into your chassis.
You'll want to lead your camera wiring through this boot so you don not cause any wear and exposure of elements to the wiring. To get started, you'll need access to the chassis end of the boot.
To do this, you'll need to remove the bottom plastic retainer panel of your trunk as that holds the side trim in place and you won't be able to pop off your side trim until you remove this piece:
<a href="https://ibb.co/jvKr6cq"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/C5dH1k4/20210105-205220.jpg" alt="20210105-205220" border="0"></a>
Next, remove your rear door light the screws within will keep the upper plastic panel in place:
<a href="https://ibb.co/rZfrSwt"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/9q35Lrv/20210105-205853.jpg" alt="20210105-205853" border="0"></a>
Once removed, you can pop off your upper panel using that trim remover tool:
<a href="https://ibb.co/WWgcWss"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/SXRKXJJ/20210105-205858.jpg" alt="20210105-205858" border="0"></a>
You should now have access to your wiring within the chassis side of the rubber boot:
<a href="https://ibb.co/dW77sB5"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/BzwwHLC/20210105-211003.jpg" alt="20210105-211003" border="0"></a>
*If your back up camera wiring is like this one, it comes in two parts; One part is directly connected to the camera and has an end that has a connector. This is the part you've been leading through the back door. The other wire the kit comes with is an extension that leads to your stereo and this is also has a leads that'll connect to your reverse light so you can active the camera.
Next, I moved on to lead the wire extension through the rubber boot that connects the chassis to the rear door.
*Caution: Removing this may cause you to break the plastic retaining fastener and you may have to use gasket sealer to secure the existing boot as you'll have a hell of a time trying to remount the OEM boot back into place.
Next, I unplugged both ends of the rubber boot and also a middle plastic retainer clip and then lead the wiring through the chassis side, through the boot, and out to the rear door side:
<a href="https://ibb.co/VW73qVk"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/nsHRLrK/20210105-232502.jpg" alt="20210105-232502" border="0"></a>
I found a hollow metal tube lying around the work area. I lead the entire wire through the tube until the connecter tip, the one that is supposed to connect to the previous wire that we were leading through the back door, was at the end of the hollow tube. I used some silicone to lube up the tube and then inserted it through the boot and pushed it through until it, and the wire connector, both pushed through the end that leads to the back door:
Hollow tube:
<a href="https://ibb.co/mJK77q5"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/v1W88P4/20210105-234435.jpg" alt="20210105-234435" border="0"></a>
Wires successfully snaked through the rubber boot:
<a href="https://ibb.co/Lg33FQT"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/1XkkgsC/20210105-234447.jpg" alt="20210105-234447" border="0"></a>
..continued
shawnathan9
New member
..continued:
If you have successfully guided your wiring through that boot, that next thing you have to do is to get that connector lead down through the back door until you can access it at the previous location where you lead your back up camera wires. To do this, I used a coat hanger, twist sticks, and secured the extension wire connector and lead it through the narrow tunnel until it was accessible on the other end:
<a href="https://ibb.co/frwDgJ0"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/VM4w16B/20210106-000417.jpg" alt="20210106-000417" border="0"></a>
Take the two ends and connect them together. Use some electric tape and secure them together so they won't come apart somewhere down the line. Once secured together, zip tie the wiring away from the path of the window. You will have to use your judgement and simply fasten the wire as snug as you can against the door. You can even hot glue it to parts of the door if you want to be creative. Just get it out of the way of the windows path.
(Technically, you can connect those previous unplugged connections, turn on your truck and lower the window. You'll immediately recognize where it leads and how to avoid the windows path.)
Once you've correctly set the wires, pull the wire back from the boot to remove any excess slack. Be gentle so you don't unplug the connection that you have secured fastened with electric tape:
<a href="https://ibb.co/bgHgh6J"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/BV4VDfN/20210106-000421.jpg" alt="20210106-000421" border="0"></a>
Do the same thing and remove any excess slack from the boot that is closest to the chassis. Now, you'll want to go through the reverse steps and reinstall the rubber boot. *Good luck on this part. I decided to use black gasket sealer and formed a clean-ish seal around the boot where I wasn't able to push back into the holes.
Now, you'll want to lead the reverse light wiring to the reverse light and so you'll want to remove the side trim from your interior to gain access to some existing wires that you can use as guides to zip tie your wiring in place:
<a href="https://ibb.co/0BKc6yR"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JxqKGjw/20210106-015318.jpg" alt="20210106-015318" border="0"></a>
You can save yourself the guess work and know that the red/blue wire for a 1996 limited is the power for the reverse lights. Therefore, you don't have to lead your wiring to the actual lights and simply tap into it within the chassis as shown here. *Note: the red wire is soldered into the red/blue wire and then a protective (white) shrink wrap is covering the solder point. To the right is a black wire I lead to a new ground point I created because the existing grounds where already connected from two different connections. I zip tied the remaining wire length and fastened it to the chassis:
<a href="https://ibb.co/drRwYYv"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/9N7k550/20210106-015322.jpg" alt="20210106-015322" border="0"></a>
While the trim was exposed, I guided the wiring on the top liner until it reached the b-pilar and then guided it to the bottom where I ran it through the OEM wiring channels:
<a href="https://ibb.co/NsBMqxM"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/nbJFyrF/20210105-132132.jpg" alt="20210105-132132" border="0"></a>
From here, continue to lead it under the A-pilar, and through the front driver lower panel until you can guide it underneath the driver side panel under the steering wheel. From there, simply guide it go your aftermarket stereo of choice. In my case, a budge Android 7 inch double din did the job. My novice wiring skills at hand:
<a href="https://ibb.co/XCJN4KS"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/G5PBJ8c/20210106-062141.jpg" alt="20210106-062141" border="0"></a>
1. Google your car models stereo wiring diagram to confirm the connections.
2. Get yourself a wire harness adapter for your aftermarket stereo.
3. Purchase the right mounting brackets
4. *Install and test fit your console. In my case, I should have measured the OEM console and then chosen a stereo head that measured to spec. However, I made some small dremel adjustments to the bezel of my center console as needed and it made for a smooth OEM style fit:
<a href="https://ibb.co/8XdJ9kx"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/t3xSDR2/20210106-112700.jpg" alt="20210106-112700" border="0"></a>
I'm glad I went through the trouble to make this work as I didn't have a wireless license plate camera as those tend to look really tacky.
The camera sits well and looks like how Toyota OEM back up cameras are mounted. The budget android screen shows a good resolution, as does the camera that captures the video, and it engages as it should without fault. I'm definitely glad I invested in this mod as I know have a means to back up really close to my garage or anything else I might tow.
The camera and head unit rounded up to around 160-80 total but you could get away with doing it for just the camera if you already have a good head unit. Best of luck to you...and what did you do today?
If you have successfully guided your wiring through that boot, that next thing you have to do is to get that connector lead down through the back door until you can access it at the previous location where you lead your back up camera wires. To do this, I used a coat hanger, twist sticks, and secured the extension wire connector and lead it through the narrow tunnel until it was accessible on the other end:
<a href="https://ibb.co/frwDgJ0"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/VM4w16B/20210106-000417.jpg" alt="20210106-000417" border="0"></a>
Take the two ends and connect them together. Use some electric tape and secure them together so they won't come apart somewhere down the line. Once secured together, zip tie the wiring away from the path of the window. You will have to use your judgement and simply fasten the wire as snug as you can against the door. You can even hot glue it to parts of the door if you want to be creative. Just get it out of the way of the windows path.
(Technically, you can connect those previous unplugged connections, turn on your truck and lower the window. You'll immediately recognize where it leads and how to avoid the windows path.)
Once you've correctly set the wires, pull the wire back from the boot to remove any excess slack. Be gentle so you don't unplug the connection that you have secured fastened with electric tape:
<a href="https://ibb.co/bgHgh6J"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/BV4VDfN/20210106-000421.jpg" alt="20210106-000421" border="0"></a>
Do the same thing and remove any excess slack from the boot that is closest to the chassis. Now, you'll want to go through the reverse steps and reinstall the rubber boot. *Good luck on this part. I decided to use black gasket sealer and formed a clean-ish seal around the boot where I wasn't able to push back into the holes.
Now, you'll want to lead the reverse light wiring to the reverse light and so you'll want to remove the side trim from your interior to gain access to some existing wires that you can use as guides to zip tie your wiring in place:
<a href="https://ibb.co/0BKc6yR"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JxqKGjw/20210106-015318.jpg" alt="20210106-015318" border="0"></a>
You can save yourself the guess work and know that the red/blue wire for a 1996 limited is the power for the reverse lights. Therefore, you don't have to lead your wiring to the actual lights and simply tap into it within the chassis as shown here. *Note: the red wire is soldered into the red/blue wire and then a protective (white) shrink wrap is covering the solder point. To the right is a black wire I lead to a new ground point I created because the existing grounds where already connected from two different connections. I zip tied the remaining wire length and fastened it to the chassis:
<a href="https://ibb.co/drRwYYv"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/9N7k550/20210106-015322.jpg" alt="20210106-015322" border="0"></a>
While the trim was exposed, I guided the wiring on the top liner until it reached the b-pilar and then guided it to the bottom where I ran it through the OEM wiring channels:
<a href="https://ibb.co/NsBMqxM"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/nbJFyrF/20210105-132132.jpg" alt="20210105-132132" border="0"></a>
From here, continue to lead it under the A-pilar, and through the front driver lower panel until you can guide it underneath the driver side panel under the steering wheel. From there, simply guide it go your aftermarket stereo of choice. In my case, a budge Android 7 inch double din did the job. My novice wiring skills at hand:
<a href="https://ibb.co/XCJN4KS"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/G5PBJ8c/20210106-062141.jpg" alt="20210106-062141" border="0"></a>
1. Google your car models stereo wiring diagram to confirm the connections.
2. Get yourself a wire harness adapter for your aftermarket stereo.
3. Purchase the right mounting brackets
4. *Install and test fit your console. In my case, I should have measured the OEM console and then chosen a stereo head that measured to spec. However, I made some small dremel adjustments to the bezel of my center console as needed and it made for a smooth OEM style fit:
<a href="https://ibb.co/8XdJ9kx"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/t3xSDR2/20210106-112700.jpg" alt="20210106-112700" border="0"></a>
I'm glad I went through the trouble to make this work as I didn't have a wireless license plate camera as those tend to look really tacky.
The camera sits well and looks like how Toyota OEM back up cameras are mounted. The budget android screen shows a good resolution, as does the camera that captures the video, and it engages as it should without fault. I'm definitely glad I invested in this mod as I know have a means to back up really close to my garage or anything else I might tow.
The camera and head unit rounded up to around 160-80 total but you could get away with doing it for just the camera if you already have a good head unit. Best of luck to you...and what did you do today?
shawnathan9
New member
The 2nd last picture where I was working the stereo harness shows a gray wire bundled up. That's the back up cameras excess length which appeared to be at least 24 extra inches. Yes, other cams may vary so I strongly suggest to gather your specs, test fit the length prior to installing.
A way to determine the needed length would be to get a twine and mock the route you'll take outside of the trim. Then, measure the length of twine used.
The Natika cam that I chose had ample wire length. Good luck with your future install.
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Beneaththewheel
New member
New seats. New mufler
Limited1996
New member
What did you go with for suspension?
runnerbear99
New member
How'd it go? I may do this on mine before long depending on the condition of the belt.
MoarRunner
New member
That red one needs a new frame? Or am I misunderstanding. It seems to be a great shape?
DaytonaMike
New member
Bush wacker fender flares
Got my new fender flares in the mail got them painted and all, now I have no clue how they are installed lol anyone ever messed with fender flares on the 3rd gen that doesn’t have center door panels
Got my new fender flares in the mail got them painted and all, now I have no clue how they are installed lol anyone ever messed with fender flares on the 3rd gen that doesn’t have center door panels
Started removal of my rear bumper. Replacing with TY replacement panels.
Operative word started!
Great resource for dismantling with Tim's video of an aftermarket bumper...just wish my bolts would zip off as easy as his!
Looks like I might destroy all of the bolts and need to buy new ones. $4 each at the dealer! Anyone know what size? M8?
edit: Toyota 3rd gen bolts +/- in length m6x1.0x20/m8x1.25x25/m10x1.25x30
Purchased one of these from Amazon and coming tomorrow.
Operative word started!
Great resource for dismantling with Tim's video of an aftermarket bumper...just wish my bolts would zip off as easy as his!
Looks like I might destroy all of the bolts and need to buy new ones. $4 each at the dealer! Anyone know what size? M8?
edit: Toyota 3rd gen bolts +/- in length m6x1.0x20/m8x1.25x25/m10x1.25x30
Purchased one of these from Amazon and coming tomorrow.
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