What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Currently at 286,500 miles. I bought it in 2003 when it had about 25,000 miles on it. Today, I:

- Replaced the alternator for the second time. So this is Alternator #3. It's a reman from Toyota. (I was getting the intermittent red battery light. New alternator fixed that.)
- Flushed the Power Steering. This may have been done once before but I don't remember when.
- Changed the oil and filter. Standard service done every 5K miles.

Since about 270K I've:

- Replaced the starter
- Replaced the turn-signal switcher
- Replaced the valve cover gaskets + air intake hose (whatever that is). This solved the 440, 441, 446 Check Engine codes I kept getting.
- Fixed frame rot on rear passenger side using a SafeTCap (about $1,200 for the part and the welding it on)
- Installed new rack bushings (Moog)
- Had timing belt service done at my local stealer
- Reseale the oil pan
- Installed a new muffler in order to pass emissions
- Installed a new head unit (Pioneer DEH80PRS) along with JL audio front-door speakers, Compact Kenwood sub, and Kenwood tweeters

Maybe one of these days I'll get to the driver's side sun visor. Summer's probably a good time to do that.

The maintenance cost stings a little but it passes quickly. I mean, at this rate, I think I can get 500K miles out of this puppy.

How was resealing the oil pan? I think mine may be leaking but i just dealt with the tranny pan and don't want to do another just yet..
 
How was resealing the oil pan? I think mine may be leaking but i just dealt with the tranny pan and don't want to do another just yet..
re-seal the tranny pan is a cake walk compared to the engine oil pan on a 4wd. I wont do one again unless I have the engine out for some reason or have a reason to drop the front diff and I had a leak in the oil pan I had been ignoring
 
Yesterday Integrated metalworks installed a Nguyen Works dual swingout powder coated color matched Thundercloud Metallic. Had the spare tire balanced and mounted at Discount tire today.

SCS BR6
Matte Gunmetal spare
Stealth Blue all around
17x9” -38 offset
BFG MT KM3 285/70/17


very nice rig
 
how easy/difficult did you find this installation? i’ve yet to do work myself on my 99 4R that i bought a few months ago but i want to start with a similar project, so curious how to know how you found it.

It's very simple but more annoying than you'd imagine trying to get the second pins in with one hand while shoulder pressing the hatch up and slightly with the other. I used an adjustable aluminum step ladder with rolled up towels on top to hold the hatch up which is dangerously heavy. I would not attemp it with out a step ladder or something stable to support it. A single strut will not hold it up. Stick a small screwdriver in the e-clip and twist and it pops off. Remove old strut, clean the pins and bend the clips a bit tight again with pliers. Test fit pin/spacers on new strut. I squeezed the ends a fraction in a vice so clip would seat. Install top end. You might need to squeeze the sides of bracket with channel lock pliers to allow clip to properly seat on pin. Pinched the clip in to place with slip joint pliers with a satisfying click. Now do other end. Repeat on other side.

Tim's youtube channel has a video on it, search 4runner hatch struts and find Timmy the Toolman. Cutting and filing the nylon spacers to fit took up most of the time.
 
re-seal the tranny pan is a cake walk compared to the engine oil pan on a 4wd. I wont do one again unless I have the engine out for some reason or have a reason to drop the front diff and I had a leak in the oil pan I had been ignoring

I have "seepage" from there but no drips on the floor so can ignore it I hope. What made it difficult? The weight of the front diff?
 
So...I've got an '02 2WD Limited. Yeah, it's got several issues I'm in the process of working out. What did I do with it today? I drove it. She's got 267k miles on the clock and the check engine light glares at me every time I start the engine..evap crap. I replaced the alternator brushes a few days ago...original alternator. What does that say about OEM quality? I look at most other brands/years on the road and think...mine will outlast yours by at least a decade. Maybe I'm just old school but I'm not going to spend my hard earned $$ on inferior quality....no matter how cutting edge the tech is. KISS....keep it simple stupid

Preach it brother. Still on original alternator on my 3rd gen. My 5th gen just got it's 3rd alternator. The suspension parts seem to be holding up better on the 5th gen though but dont get abused much. I've NEVER had the check engine light or a single code on my 3rd gen (knock on wood).
 
That's the oem 4Runner wheel. I will be rewrapping it which will make it thicker. lol

Oh I thought the Sienna wheel might be slightly different, beyond the controls. Just the camera I guess. The Wheelskins leather wrap I put on mine is one of my favorite things I ever did to the vehicle. The extra thickness makes it perfect IMO and the black looks close to OEM. But it took some time and a few blisters lacing it up.
 
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new tie rods all around

Had my driverside go bad after noticing a strange wear pattern on my tire. Going to replace all of them and a CV axel on the passenger side while I'm at it since I notice the boot was torn a few months ago.
 
[MENTION=636945]Spiker Engineering[/MENTION]

Got my new phone mount in the mail today! The fit and finish on this is very professional. Holding it up to the dash I find that it settles into a very solid spot and it will position the phone in an ideal location.

Just working on fitting my magnetic mounting stuff to it before I attach it to the dash.

pggecLn.jpg


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How was resealing the oil pan? I think mine may be leaking but i just dealt with the tranny pan and don't want to do another just yet..

Well I cheated, I had a shop do it -- and a shop that's not great on price like Japanese Auto City. It cost me about $1K which didn't turn out to be that much cheaper than the stealer quote.

I had some pretty serious leaks (leaving a puddle every night) around 250K and it took me the better part of three years to get them all fixed. The oil pan gasket was the biggest leak. The others were a seal related to the timing belt and (of course) the valve cover gaskets.

The total cost to get all the leaks ended up being $1,022 for oil pan gasket plus $1,296 for the timing belt service, plus $540 for the valve cover gaskets labor, plus about $150 for the Valve Cover Gasket parts including spark plugs.

So about $3,000 in total. The assessment of the vehicle for tax property tax purposes is about $4K.

Whatever it takes. My eyes are still on the target of 500K miles. When I'll be in my 60s.
 
I made the LED conversion and got rid of all the fake wood trim.

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Before like 4 years ago, it was way more aged, I didn’t get a right before pic. Was too excited!

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One of my lights doesn’t work in the climate control, new bulb and all, any ideas?
 
Well I cheated, I had a shop do it -- and a shop that's not great on price like Japanese Auto City. It cost me about $1K which didn't turn out to be that much cheaper than the stealer quote.

I had some pretty serious leaks (leaving a puddle every night) around 250K and it took me the better part of three years to get them all fixed. The oil pan gasket was the biggest leak. The others were a seal related to the timing belt and (of course) the valve cover gaskets.

The total cost to get all the leaks ended up being $1,022 for oil pan gasket plus $1,296 for the timing belt service, plus $540 for the valve cover gaskets labor, plus about $150 for the Valve Cover Gasket parts including spark plugs.

So about $3,000 in total. The assessment of the vehicle for tax property tax purposes is about $4K.

Whatever it takes. My eyes are still on the target of 500K miles. When I'll be in my 60s.

Wow a grand for the oil pan! that's way more than i figured it could be. I think i've got just a little seep so nothing like puddles, so it's understandable you had to get them fixed.
 
I made the LED conversion and got rid of all the fake wood trim.

One of my lights doesn’t work in the climate control, new bulb and all, any ideas?

Did you check that the bulb works before putting it in? Did you check that you have the polarity right? LED's will only work if installed in the correct orientation, if you haven't checked it, pull it out, rotate it 180 degrees, and put it back in and see if that fixes it.
 
Did you check that the bulb works before putting it in? Did you check that you have the polarity right? LED's will only work if installed in the correct orientation, if you haven't checked it, pull it out, rotate it 180 degrees, and put it back in and see if that fixes it.

Yeah I did do all that, it wasn’t working when I got her. I have tried a regular bulb and LED. I am guessing something isn’t connected or is loose.
 
Yeah I did do all that, it wasn’t working when I got her. I have tried a regular bulb and LED. I am guessing something isn’t connected or is loose.

Sorry, that's all I've got. I've never seen the back of the manual climate control, so I'm not sure where to look next.
 
Well I cheated, I had a shop do it -- and a shop that's not great on price like Japanese Auto City. It cost me about $1K which didn't turn out to be that much cheaper than the stealer quote.

I had some pretty serious leaks (leaving a puddle every night) around 250K and it took me the better part of three years to get them all fixed. The oil pan gasket was the biggest leak. The others were a seal related to the timing belt and (of course) the valve cover gaskets.

The total cost to get all the leaks ended up being $1,022 for oil pan gasket plus $1,296 for the timing belt service, plus $540 for the valve cover gaskets labor, plus about $150 for the Valve Cover Gasket parts including spark plugs.

So about $3,000 in total. The assessment of the vehicle for tax property tax purposes is about $4K.

Whatever it takes. My eyes are still on the target of 500K miles. When I'll be in my 60s.


well glad your keeping it alive. Yes the oil pan gasket is spendy but recently another person I know was quoted 700 plus parts for the pan gasket
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I too have a 2001 with nearly same miles. Recently purhaced this neglected girl and after serious exam will keep and will be putting a lot into it this summer. ( otherwise I would have done a cheap fix and flip) Hope to hit 500k miles myself
 
Wow a grand for the oil pan! that's way more than i figured it could be. I think i've got just a little seep so nothing like puddles, so it's understandable you had to get them fixed.

Lotta labor, but I'm sure it can be done for cheaper. I made a mistake going to that shop. Thought I'd give them a chance, it didn't work out. They won't install any customer supplied parts other than brake pads or oil filter.

Switched to another shop. Two Korean guys. Labor's half the cost of the dealer and they will install customer supplied parts. Which works for me since I like to procure all of the parts to ensure only OEM is used.

Live and learn, I guess.
 
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