Brian.
Member
Usually better to remove the old solder and apply New solder, but applying a little flux and re-flowing the solder that's there will do the trick too.
Just heating the area without flux won't accomplish anything good.
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Usually better to remove the old solder and apply New solder, but applying a little flux and re-flowing the solder that's there will do the trick too.
Just heating the area without flux won't accomplish anything good.
habanero
Senior Member
That,s what I did
Didn't have flux or a decent iron, only half decent-ish. Will have to redo again in however long it takes to fail. I like the added advice/info, thanks!
Devbot
New member
That's what I meant, sorry, not just reheating it :lol:
Good to know though, I didn't think that it would
fourfive
Senior Member
I used a long crow bar (the same one I needed to pry the axle out).
I loosely installed the axle in the differential, until I could feel that the splines were lined up. Then I took the crow bar, pushed one end against the ground, with the middle portion bearing on the flat of the outer CV joint. Then I simply pushed in on top of the crow bar, and the axle popped in with hardly any resistance.
Leverage is your friend!
Here is a crude sketch:
2 out of the 3 times I had to install my CV axles I had a similar struggle requiring the use of a dead blow for the axle to fully seat & even then it was still a struggle. I don't remember doing anything differently the 1 time I was able to get my axles to go in without a fight. Thanks for sharing. I'm going to have to give that a try next time. Leverage is my friend...noted.
fourfive
Senior Member
Learned to stop drinking beer while working on my caround::frusty:
Went to get an alignment today and halfway through the tech comes out an asks if I ever had trouble getting it aligned before (I have) then lets me know my struts are set to different positions, and that's almost certainly causing my problems. I went with him to look and a quick glance at the clip positions would show he's right; #3 on passenger side, #4 on driver's side... but a tape measure says otherwise (both sides within 1/4in of each other even at full droop), and that would be really super weird for me to do... But at the same time, I think I very vaguely remember setting one higher last summer to compensate for driver's side lean... I kinda remember being like "damn why hasn't anyone done this before?" and thinking I was slick more than anything else
Agree that different spring seat positions/spring seat height is common to level out the front driver/passenger sides & shouldn't make a difference on being able to properly get your wheels aligned, assuming that the static center hub to fender measurement is less than 23" & close to equal on both sides. My adjustable coilovers have a threaded shock body instead of a c-clip & my driver side spring seat is 1/2" higher relative to the passenger side. With that setup I've had experiences ranging from perfect alignment numbers to techs telling me that a proper alignment wasn't possible due to having a lift, etc. Basically depends on how good the alignment tech is &/or if they are willing to take the time to get everything dialed in.
Devbot
New member
Well turns out he was full of it because my shocks are completely even on both sides. To his credit it really did look like otherwise from just looking at the clip position, but clearly it would appear that wasn't the case :shrug:
I'm not really complaining too much because they were still able to get my caster at +3.2 on each side, and JBA only guarantees +3.0. When the tech pulled me aside he went through a full rotation on the cams to show me he physically couldn't achieve any more without throwing the other numbers wayyy into the red, so I wouldn't suspect it was just laziness or anything like that. But I'm also no alignment tech, and I know for sure I was riding on +3.5 degrees before, so it's really a toss up in my eyes. In the end if push comes to shove I don't have a problem getting SPC arms to fix the issue (if I had known about the Mevotech copies I would've done so from the get-go)
chapolito
New member
I probably will eventually, it looks really nice. But I've just spent a lot of money in the last weeks getting ready for the trip—12v fridge, lithium battery, charge controller, etc. + new A/C condenser, compressor and dryer installed by a shop. I wanted to see how far a free solution would get me.
4LoAndLocked
New member
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Check with your agent on zero deductible comprehensive - most policies cost only about $20 more for $0 deductible than $250 or $500 deductible per 6 months of coverage, and are perfect for things like windshield or hail damage, rocks, shopping carts, etc, not to mention vandalism or theft.
And your rates should not go up if you file a claim, since it is not considered your fault.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
I don't even carry comprehensive on my 4runner. I.dont need to be insured against myself lol
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Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Haha, fair enough. But you can't control rocks flying at your windshield or runaway shopping carts!
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Your premiums will increase if you file claims that they pay that cannot be subrogated against another party - like the errant shipping cart owner. Shit happens, sometimes you have to suck up your own cost of living.
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Brian.
Member
Far cheaper to self insure. Rock chip repair kit is ~$20 and will do about 10 repairs. Glass itself lasts about 10 years in a sanded-roads state (Wyoming) before it needs replacing. Haven't seen the need for a replacement here in Georgia, but sold the vehicle with 5 WY years and 7~8 GA years.
Paint chips are similarly simple/easy and cheap to touch up. Having gone through the Nightmare of insurance coverage for rock chips (landscapers with string trimmers and a 2 month old car, peppered the whole passenger side, every panel and piece of glass), it's not something I'd wish on any but politicians/elected officials.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Maybe that depends on the insurance company? I've been with the same one for over 40 years, and the premiums have been increasing with inflation and car situations (e.g. young drivers), but overall there have been no increases from filing comprehensive claims. My agent said that if I file too many comprehensive claims, they may bump me out of the "zero deductible" policy, but I guess I have been judicious enough to not get bumped out. Obviously YMMV depending on your insurance.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Do the math
$20 a month is $240 a year. How many windshields do you replace a year?
Still cheaper to buy a windshield every 18 months than insure against the potential loss, and you're not earning interest on your insurance premium, the insurance company is. Let your money work for you, not someone else.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
$20 is for 6 months; so $40 per year. I've replaced windshields on average every 3-4 years on each car, and I have 3 cars. And more than once I replaced a windshield that was a year old and got cracked by a rock (I drive a lot on the 5). And that's without the one time I had half my car painted due to a long scratch from a shopping cart.
Look at the cost of windshields ($2K for my GLK) and body work - the math is quite favorable
.
96 ToyRunner
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Installed the wheelers brake lines front and rear at 361,074
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