What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[IamNegan]

For what it's worth, when you lift a truck, you lose caster (caster becomes less positive). The JBA UCAs address this problem by positioning the upper ball joint further back than stock, which restores the caster lost by the lift - What is more caster?.

However in many cases, moving the upper ball joint back also creates rubbing in the back of the wheelwell. To address this, you can adjust the lower control arm cams to move the entire wheel forward in the wheelwell. You do that by rotating the front cams "in" and the rear cams "out", like this (black is neutral, orange is more caster):

I had a whole thread on this issue - Alignment Issues After Lift

You seem to have the opposite issue though, that your wheel is already too far forward. That's a bit odd, especially if like you said your cam eliminator plates are set to "neutral". Are you sure that's how they are set?

Also, did you have the truck aligned? What are your current caster numbers?

And finally, from my understanding, cam eliminator plates are not meant to be used with non-adjustable UCAs like JBAs, you simply won't be able to dial in the alignment accurately. I know that the KP Offroad octagonal plates give you more adjustability than the square ones from 333 Fab, but I still wonder if that's enough? That's where the switch to adjustable UCAs like SPC might be useful.

Hope this helps.

Spiker Engineering thank you for the awesome response. Appreciate the graphic. I must have made a mistake in the explanation, the problem is I am too far back, hitting the rear of the front fender around the pinch weld area aggressively.

The current alignment is set to neutral. I sent a picture of the set up to JBA and they verified it. Going in tomorrow to try to get positive caster from the LCA as noted. Hopefully this solves the issue, otherwise I will get the numbers.

If its not enough as you noted, I will switch to SPC.

Not being sarcastic in any way, but I would have to wonder why this is not very clearly documented before purchase. meaning, I would think most people taking the time and money to purchase an aftermarket UCA, are also going to have a lift? Just a question that popped into my head (with my limited understanding)

Reading over the thread now! Thanks again. :hail:

 

[Spiker Engineering]

I must have made a mistake in the explanation, the problem is I am too far back, hitting the rear of the front fender around the pinch weld area aggressively.

The current alignment is set to neutral. I sent a picture of the set up to JBA and they verified it. Going in tomorrow to try to get positive caster from the LCA as noted. Hopefully this solves the issue, otherwise I will get the numbers.

Ah, I misunderstood your earlier post. Yes, with the JBAs in place, and your cam eliminator plates set to neutral, you should expect the tire to be biased to the rear, as you're seeing. They'll need to adjust the plates as shown in the diagram to move the tire forward.

Let us know how the alignment numbers come back.

 

[IamNegan]

I installed a new radiator and cap from Anaheim Toyota (had to drive an hour to pick up). A thermostat and gasket from Toyota of Oxnard( my local dealer purchased on line and picked up in person.) Purchased an upper and lower radiator hose from AutoZone. The upper fit fine but the lower wasn't even close, the hose kinked when installed. Will have to bring it back.
Also installed a inline axillary transmission cooler. When I took the grill off, every one of the brittle grill clips broke.
Ordered new grill clips and an lower hose from Toyota of Oxnard.
Mike.

Sounds like a successful project despite the challenges. How long more or less did it take you? The grill clips always stress me out.

 

[IamNegan]

Sorry, man - I totally misread the intent of your original post! I glad some non-idiots are on the job here.

No worries at all :cheers:

 

[Endlessblockades]

no worries at all :cheers:

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[CO3rdgen]

Finally put the tire carrier on

Just welded up my swingout tire carrier from SRQ Fab. I was fairly impressed with how it turned out and it was easy to put together. Anyone have any suggestions for relocating my license plate?

 

[4Bubber]

Ultra Clean Oil Filter Change

hey ya’ll. I have perused this forum for years now, and have gotten so much out of this website, I feel like i am overdue for a post of my own.
My name is Will and I am the owner of a 2000 Limited 4x4 with the rear locker. Ive owned the truck since 123k and im right at 193k now. Just finished replacing the head gaskets with the oem toyota kit. Thing is running like a dream.

Anyways, just wanted to say after many years of changing the oil filter on this truck, and always making at least a small mess. Today I managed to not spill a drop. I owe this success almost entirely to the FORM-A-Funnel. I hate taking off the skids and have finally managed a 100% spotless oil change. I will try to attach some pics here of the setup, and also a few of my rig.

Lifted on OME 881 and 890. 1 inch body lift. 285/75/16 milestar pat’s.

THANK YOU SO MUCH TO EVERYONE ON THIS FORUM. It is so badass that the 3rd gen community has this much camaraderie.

 

[4Bubber]

4runner — ImgBB pics

 

[IamNegan]

4runner — ImgBB pics

Sweet ride :rockon:

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Deleted my front sway bar tonight and took the front links and swapped them out to the rear after realizing they were in great shape and the bushings. Grabed some ES bushings at AutoZone and threw them on. Really happy with the amount of flex I have now, can't wait to get on the trail. So far I'm okay with the extra body roll but I'm definitely thinking about doing some quick disconnect links, especially when I'm carrying scouts around in the truck. One thing I've been really surprised about with much of my recent wrenching is that most of the OEM rubber on my truck is in amazingly good shape for 276k and 25 years. The only thing I've noted not looking so hot are my body mounts and even those aren't totally clapped.

 

[IamNegan]

I have the same wheels and tires. I don't run spacers. My LCA's are set to rear out as far as it can go and front is in the middle mainly because I couldn't get the arm to go in all the way because of how the 333 Fab cam eliminator kit only allows 3 alignment points. That KPOffroad kit does look nicer. At that setting though I don't rub the inner fender and pinch weld during normal driving. I used to when my alignment cams were in a more neutral position with JBA UCA's and I was backing up with my wheel turned all the way. I might rub the tiniest amount if i'm offroading and the tire is stuffed up into to fender but not a big deal to me. I did have to trim the front bumper a little though but I plan on getting a new bumper soon anyways. I also got SPC arms to fine tune the alignment. If I was you I think i'd at least move the rear part of the LCA out and see how it looks after an alignment.

Thanks everyone for your help. Adding the positive lower control arm caster has helped immensely. No more rubbing at least while driving on flat surfaces. I have not had time to check it out under other conditions.

2002 4runner Limited
JBA UCA, Dobinsons 2.5 IMS suspension shocks, springs, Toyo Open Country A/T III 285/70R17, Stealth Custom Series SR8 × 5 Matte Dark Bronze / 17x8.5 -10mm 6x139.7
4 degrees of forward caster

I do see where the SPC UCAs have a lot more adjustment now that I held a set in my hands. But so far it looks like I should be able to keep the JBA UCAs

after alignment pictures

Hope this helps the next person with the same questions.

 

[IamNegan]

Deleted my front sway bar tonight and took the front links and swapped them out to the rear after realizing they were in great shape and the bushings. Grabed some ES bushings at AutoZone and threw them on. Really happy with the amount of flex I have now, can't wait to get on the trail. So far I'm okay with the extra body roll but I'm definitely thinking about doing some quick disconnect links, especially when I'm carrying scouts around in the truck. One thing I've been really surprised about with much of my recent wrenching is that most of the OEM rubber on my truck is in amazingly good shape for 276k and 25 years. The only thing I've noted not looking so hot are my body mounts and even those aren't totally clapped.

Nice! I am always impressed at how well items on my 3rd gen hold up compared to other vehicles ive owned. Mazda, Ford, etc. from the interior on out. Just have to keep and eye on the Lower Ball Joints

 

[IamNegan]

When I did my SAS I kept it really low and only used 10" coil overs. It worked for a lot of years but I was never happy with the ride on anything choppy.

So out with the 10s and in with 14" coilovers (200/300 coils). Also swapped out the OME 890 coils for some OME 861's in the rear.

Adding 2" front and rear plus removing the old solid bump stops with air bumps I now doubled my up travel.

New stuff:

Very tight fit around the booster:

What a sick set up. :clap2:

 

[octanejunkie]

Model reassignment operation, just haven't decide if putting a 4runner body onto the Tacoma frame (has some rust areas around the rear leaf to frame mount points) or going all the way and using a 4runner body and frame, is better. Tacoma is a 3.4L w/rear 4:10 locker.

Parts truck

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[octanejunkie]

I would flip those cam elim plates over, you have very little engagement with the cam tabs

Ah, I misunderstood your earlier post. Yes, with the JBAs in place, and your cam eliminator plates set to neutral, you should expect the tire to be biased to the rear, as you're seeing. They'll need to adjust the plates as shown in the diagram to move the tire forward.



Let us know how the alignment numbers come back.

good that you got it set up without rubbing and properly aligned.

 

[octanejunkie]

Sounds like a successful project despite the challenges. How long more or less did it take you? The grill clips always stress me out.

The grill clips are easy peasy, I don't even use a tool any more.

Reach through the opening between the grill and the radiator/condenser and put your finger above the tang of the clip sticking out of the back of the grill tabs and push down while pulling that part of the grill slightly forward, the clip will release from the grill.

Do that all the way around. The hardest one is the bottom center. When you remove the grill from the truck the clips will remain in the core support. Twist them 90° and remove.

To reinstall the grill in the truck, simply slide the clips back into the grille (arrow away from the grill) and then push the grill back into the core support listening for the little clicks of victory [emoji119]

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Bad Luck]

Thanks everyone for your help. Adding the positive lower control arm caster has helped immensely. No more rubbing at least while driving on flat surfaces. I have not had time to check it out under other conditions.

2002 4runner Limited
JBA UCA, Dobinsons 2.5 IMS suspension shocks, springs, Toyo Open Country A/T III 285/70R17, Stealth Custom Series SR8 × 5 Matte Dark Bronze / 17x8.5 -10mm 6x139.7
4 degrees of forward caster

I do see where the SPC UCAs have a lot more adjustment now that I held a set in my hands. But so far it looks like I should be able to keep the JBA UCAs

after alignment pictures

Hope this helps the next person with the same questions.

That's actually pretty good alignment results considering that they can't adjust for camber/caster due to the cam eliminator plates. I'm impressed!

 

[Tibor]

Finally installed a Midland MXT275

Tedious but totally worth it!

 

[IamNegan]

I would flip those cam elim plates over, you have very little engagement with the cam tabsgood that you got it set up without rubbing and properly aligned.

Great point! Good eye, pic post alignment

 

[JoeT4R]

Did an oil change and a long overdue tire rotation. Hadn't rotated them in about 12K miles. So that was nice to finally get done.