What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Dezert4Runner
Senior Member
That looks SO clean. Is that 1/2 perforated alcantera and 1/2 leather?
I’ve almost pulled the trigger a couple different times on the East Detailing steering wheel covers. Just not sure how well it covers the torn up OEM leather at the 12 o’clock position on my wheel…
JBurt
Senior Member
Thanks for the advice. So far I've tried:
Straw in the shop vac - doesn't grab it
Sticky stuff/grease on a stick - unfortunately there was also quite a bit of oil in that same cavity so the plastic is oil coated and not sticking to much
Flexible remote grabber thing - diameter is too large. The one I had was 9.6mm diameter. I borrowed one that was 8.6mm and ground it down to 8.1mm, still to big. The shop vac straw was 7.2mm and barely fit, so I guess that's the magic number.
The plastic chunk is a good size. I would hate to have it cause a clog. I won't leave it in there. I've ordered a pair of ear forceps with a 6.5 inch handle, but that'll take until the 2nd of May. Harbor Freight has a pair of 5.5inch regular forceps that's I'll try to pick up tomorrow.
There aren't any oil passages where it's stuck (I think) and I might also try pulverizing the plastic into smaller pieces that the shop vac straw will get. I'd like to find some better images of a head without the cams just to be 100% certain.
Edit: After poking around and looking at pictures, I think the pulverizing method is a bad idea. It seems that the plastic is wedged in an oil passage. Ugh
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
That looks phenomenal. How much did this cost you, if you don't mind me asking? If it was affordable I may very highly consider doing the same. I absolutely love the way this looks and I'm super jealous!! Lol
JBurt
Senior Member
That is the best looking wheel repair I've seen. Looks like they're in sale right now for $50
TOYOTA
– East Detailing
Too bad they only have the 4 spoke wheel though
TOYOTA
– East Detailing
Too bad they only have the 4 spoke wheel though
GhostRing
Member
Thanks for the compliments!
It is the 1/2 black leather, 1/2 perforated leather with all black stitching and a beige stripe.
I believe it was about $60 total to the door. There are 10% coupons all over, so just pick your favorite.
After my YouTube certification, I would say the stitching took about 2.5 hrs? I kind of made a point
not to check the time and focused on just keeping it clean (I did every stitch/loop) That takes the
longest to complete, but I liked the pattern better than skipping every other zig/zag.
I will note that I used an SR5 black "rubberized" wheel, so I didn't have to concern myself with any
of the ripped leather etc. from my original wheel. The spokes were obviously the trickiest parts,
but a little patience and some small do-overs solved most issues. I highly recommend giving it a shot!
It is the 1/2 black leather, 1/2 perforated leather with all black stitching and a beige stripe.
I believe it was about $60 total to the door. There are 10% coupons all over, so just pick your favorite.
After my YouTube certification, I would say the stitching took about 2.5 hrs? I kind of made a point
not to check the time and focused on just keeping it clean (I did every stitch/loop) That takes the
longest to complete, but I liked the pattern better than skipping every other zig/zag.
I will note that I used an SR5 black "rubberized" wheel, so I didn't have to concern myself with any
of the ripped leather etc. from my original wheel. The spokes were obviously the trickiest parts,
but a little patience and some small do-overs solved most issues. I highly recommend giving it a shot!
Very nice! Last time I put a cover on my 4Runner I used a generic fit but nice quality leather (Wheelskins) cover. Which feels nice, lasts well, but obviously doesn't fit on the spokes at all.
More recently I replaced a cheap generic fit cover on my MIata and got a custom fitted cover ( Amazon.com ) which had all sorts of options for the materials, perforation, stitching, etc. Took a couple of hours to stitch up neatly, but the results were spectacular. Doesn't look like a cover, looks like the original style covering, just new again.
Before: Generic plasticky ill fitting cover.
After: Maybe 2 1/2 hours of positioning, stitching, undoing the stitching, readjusting, restitching, etc. It's not perfect, but it's far better than it was:
octanejunkie
Elite Member
I found a guy on eBay that can make any model steering wheel wrap. He made one for my 3-spoke Land Cruiser wheel for $60
Alan Gunn, aka aglausa
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fatherohenry
Member
Replaced Aft O2 Sensor
Doing something's better than nothing.
Trying to figure out why heat shield #2 there makes so much racket. Nuts are tight. Is it possible it's just fatigued and needs to be replaced? Shield #1 in front of that one doesn't seem to rattle.
Doing something's better than nothing.
Trying to figure out why heat shield #2 there makes so much racket. Nuts are tight. Is it possible it's just fatigued and needs to be replaced? Shield #1 in front of that one doesn't seem to rattle.
Replaced Aft O2 Sensor
Doing something's better than nothing.
Trying to figure out why heat shield #2 there makes so much racket. Nuts are tight. Is it possible it's just fatigued and needs to be replaced? Shield #1 in front of that one doesn't seem to rattle.
Make sure the heat shields aren't touching each other. I had to fiddle with some small bends and such to get mine to stop doing that.
Hope that helps.
Began disassembly of the front end on the '99. All part of putting in the new e-locker (Harrop/Eaton) 4.88 front diff. The 4.88 rear diff went in last week.
So yesterday, the front diff came out. I was able to do this my just unbolting the LBJ's and undoing the outer tie rod ends, then using a ratchet strap to lift the hub up and off the ball joint. Then pop the sted ends out of the diff, and swing each side out of the diff and out of the way without undoing the outer end of the CV (which is a bit more tedious with the manual hubs).
That's just step one, while the diff is out I'm using the opportunity to correct some minor oil leaks while I have the easy access. The steering rack has begun to weep fluid out from around the steering shaft, it's getting replaced with a new Toyota rack. Also, the oil pan is a bit wet in some areas around the perimeter, it's coming out for a cleaning and resealing with FIPG. And the oil cooler is getting new o-rings and coolant hoses, it's a bit damp with oil around that area.
I also have a new passenger motor mount I might as well put in while the access is good. The driver mount was broken a few years ago, I bought both and replaced the broken driver mount then, but didn't feel like replacing the passenger mount at that time. Might as well while I have better access from underneath.
I got a non-ADD passenger front diff leg from a Tacoma in a local PnP junkyard, so that's going on the new front diff. ADD isn't needed with the manual hubs, it's just another thing to possibly fail out on the trail.
So yesterday, the front diff came out. I was able to do this my just unbolting the LBJ's and undoing the outer tie rod ends, then using a ratchet strap to lift the hub up and off the ball joint. Then pop the sted ends out of the diff, and swing each side out of the diff and out of the way without undoing the outer end of the CV (which is a bit more tedious with the manual hubs).
That's just step one, while the diff is out I'm using the opportunity to correct some minor oil leaks while I have the easy access. The steering rack has begun to weep fluid out from around the steering shaft, it's getting replaced with a new Toyota rack. Also, the oil pan is a bit wet in some areas around the perimeter, it's coming out for a cleaning and resealing with FIPG. And the oil cooler is getting new o-rings and coolant hoses, it's a bit damp with oil around that area.
I also have a new passenger motor mount I might as well put in while the access is good. The driver mount was broken a few years ago, I bought both and replaced the broken driver mount then, but didn't feel like replacing the passenger mount at that time. Might as well while I have better access from underneath.
I got a non-ADD passenger front diff leg from a Tacoma in a local PnP junkyard, so that's going on the new front diff. ADD isn't needed with the manual hubs, it's just another thing to possibly fail out on the trail.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Finally finished my engine bay refresh project!
Then spent over two hours trying to properly line up the wiper motor shaft with the linkage so that the wipers don't move into the cowl at some points. The FSM is useless on that topic, and I have yet to find any Youtube video that explains it (correctly).
Then spent over two hours trying to properly line up the wiper motor shaft with the linkage so that the wipers don't move into the cowl at some points. The FSM is useless on that topic, and I have yet to find any Youtube video that explains it (correctly).
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Looks great Leon, kudos man, that's awesome [emoji106]
I guess you don't plan on driving it LOL my engine bay gets dusty even if I look at a trail map
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I guess you don't plan on driving it LOL my engine bay gets dusty even if I look at a trail map
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Thanks Jeff! I have to say, I expected the powder coating of the valve covers and intake plenum to have the biggest effect, but I think that plating those brackets and fasteners had as big an effect, if not bigger. Little details all add up!
Thanks Mike! But you are right, I'm afraid that now the truck is officially relegated to mall crawler status
. Hopefully not.Rushthezeppelin
New member
I think I'm in love! That engine bay is the stuff off dreams. Would take a lot to get mine looking like that, I've got so much gunk from old leaks on my block and everything is thoroughly dusty.
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
A bay of beauty!!!!! Dang that's sharp against the white paint.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Here are a couple of before/after photos, just to show how bad the corrosion was (especially on aluminum and all the plated parts and fasteners).
fatherohenry
Member
In case anyone's hesitant about posting anything after Leon's masterpiece, I'll take the hit. Thanks for posting some before pics but that bar's raised too high for me!
At least I can keep mine running with a new heater control valve and associated hoses and clamps.
I must have accidentally snapped the extremely dried out vacuum hose on top of the intake.
As soon as I fired her up I heard a vacuum leak. Fortunately I have a box of new hoses in various sizes, knew exactly where it was, and fixed it in minutes.
Someone watching would've thought I knew what I was doing. But if they noticed that backwards 4th clamp they'd know I'm a fraud.
At least I can keep mine running with a new heater control valve and associated hoses and clamps.
I must have accidentally snapped the extremely dried out vacuum hose on top of the intake.
As soon as I fired her up I heard a vacuum leak. Fortunately I have a box of new hoses in various sizes, knew exactly where it was, and fixed it in minutes.
Someone watching would've thought I knew what I was doing. But if they noticed that backwards 4th clamp they'd know I'm a fraud.
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